Single and multi-pitch trad and sport climbs in a fine
setting. A lot of potential for new routes still exists.
Continue along the road past the club house and take
the first right turn. Double back on towards the Clubhouse on this road
until you reach a small hill with a golf green at its bottom (do not walk
on the green). Walk around the back of the green and contour around the
hillside a short way before heading down to a small boulder with red paint
marks and 2 bolts. It is wise to fix a short rope here. Descend to the
larger boulders just below and traverse across a short intimidating step.
Beyond this leave the fixed rope and scramble down through a vegetated
area. Finally, down climb about 2m in a small chimney and follow an easy
ramp to the foot of the cliffs.
Start on the right hand side of the wall by a small
groove. Climb this a short way until it is possible to move left on
to the slab proper. Climb this, with increasing difficulty, to an overlap.
Pull through this an continue up the wall above on very small holds
to the large ledge.
FA: Stuart Sharpless (2002)
2
- The Binge - E3 6a ***
A fine rightwards trending hand jamming crack. Originally
a dirt filled abyss it was cleaned beautifully by John Lawton. Now it
is a very prominent feature and is one of the best cracks in Hong Kong.
Start beneath a small roof and climb awkwardly through this (crux) to
the fine crack above.
FA: Tim Brown
3 - In the Groove - E5/6 6b (F7a+) ***
A fine feature and without doubt a beautiful line.
Originally climbed by Dave Hesseldon with an in situ peg to protect
an otherwise very run out crux section the climb was retro-bolted by
Stuart Sharpless in 2000 following the loss of holds. Follow the obvious
groove. Once passed the small roof on the left wall climb up a few metres
before trending rightward.
FA: Dave Hesseldon
5 - New Guinea - E2 5b
Start up the same ramp as for In the Groove. Upon reaching
the vertical corner at the top of the ramp traverse left and swing around
the corner onto a ramp to join the belay ledge on Bat Crack.
FA. Tim Brown
6 - Bat crack - HVS 4b, 5b, 5a
From the large ledge at the base of the cliff angle
up to the steep hour glass section of rock, which is climbed to the
pinnacle and a ledge (crux). Belay/abseil ring bolt. Continue upwards,
bearing slightly leftwards towards a block, then directly up to, and
through, the small roof. It is possible to exit the first easy (good
warm up) pitch via a long stretch right across the wall towards The
Binge, or scramble left across & down to the abseil chain.
FA: Tim Brown
7 - Floyd - E2 5c
The bolts on this climb are of unknown origin and should
be backed up with gear whenever possible. Start slightly left of the
first bolt. After clipping the second bolt trend right to a good No.
3 Camelot placement in a vertical crack. Trend back left continuing
towards the bolt belay. Small wires were used on the first ascent, where
they put them in I'm not sure???
FA: Tim Brown
8 - Up up & away - E4 5c, 6a, 5c **
Start at the lower reaches of the ramp, almost where
it meets the sea. Pitch 1, Climb Floyd to the bolt belay. Pitch 2, Head
up, and to the left, to meet 'Benny' (the obvious stepped corner). From
there enter the undercuts to the right and follow these until reaching
the good ledge on Bat Crack (belay). Pitch 3, Place a high runner at
the belay and follow a line out to the left (crux) around the hanging
block to a bolt and peg belay.
FA: Stuart Sharpless & Geoff Breach (2000)
9 - Troy - E2 5b **
A steep and strenuous line up the imposing wall. Begin
10m left of Floyd, just left of and below the small roof. Move up and
step around onto the front face. Take the obvious line initially, but
trend left up onto the small roofed and sloping ledge. Step right around
to the arete (crux) and continue up this. (there is a direct start from
below & on the right side of the wall where there is a small step
and bolt).
FA: Peter Taw
The next two climbs are normally linked together to create an excellent
E1 5a, 5c.
10 - Benny - HVS 5a *
Climb the obvious stepped corner about 15- 20ft to
the left of Bat Crack. From the top of the corner continue up the right
hand slab to a belay at its top.
FA: Tim Brown
11. Tim and Pete's, E1 5c **
Climb the flakes to the corner. Take the main crack
to up and through the roof above. An old bolt is placed on the lip of
this roof, and a set of abseil chains are located about 15 ft above
that. An abseil from these chains is the easiest way down from this
part of the cliff.
FA: Peter Taw & Tim Brown (1989)
12 - Benny's Mate - VS 4c
Start 3m left of Benny. Climb up, then right, onto
a left extension of the ramp to join Benny. Exit as above.
FA: Tim Brown
13 - Big face, thin crack.
An awesome looking line, not yet climbed.
14 - Big Crack - E3/4 5c **
This route takes the large crack on the left hand side
of the large, gently overhanging face at the sea's edge. There is a
single bolt at the belay and you can either traverse to the anchors
on Tim and Pete's or take the ramp down or head over to the S' cracks
area.
F.A. Martin Foakes
The next climbs are around the corner from the Main face and are accessed
by traversing around from Big Crack. This then leads to a ramp where you
can either access the top of the crag or traverse further.
15 - Mary Poppins - VS 4c **
Step right below the roof into the chimney, move up then on two parrelel
cracks. Exit right then up.
16 - Two Dogs - HVS 5b
Step right into the chimney, or start direct with more
difficulty below the right side of the chimney. Step right again onto
the lower narrow section of the wall. Proceed all the way straight up
(run out). two bolts.
17 - Madonna - VS 4b
Easy yet very exposed. Move up the crack on the left
of the chimney then step right across the chimney onto the small ledge
and continue right, across "Two dogs", to a bolt, and them
move delicately around the corner to the exit crack. Beware of major
rope drag
18 - After Dark - E2 6a *
The stunning hanging groove. Start by scrambling 15m
up easy rock left of "Mary Poppins". From the ramp, traverse
approx. 20ft across the slabby wall to a short crumbly traverse left.
Make a hard move up the thin crack and belay at the base of the hanging
groove. Follow the groove, traversing right underneath the roof to the
top of the crag. Belay well back (really needs a bolt belay)
FA: John Lawton & Martin Lancaster, alts (2000)
The next climb is best reached by climbing the ramp in-between Routes
9 and 10. Go over the top of the zawn and either down climb or abseil
in.
21 - S Crack - E1 5c **
The obvious S shaped crack on the wall across the zawn.
A bolt protects a hard move below the crack, after which well protected
climbing leads to the
top.
F.A. Unknown ??
