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Dodgy Bolts
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stuart
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Aug 2004
Posts: 581

[quote="stuart"]

quote:
Originally posted by overtech:

Another Lion Rock route with iffy looking bolts (with hangers freely swinging around etc.) is Walking on Sunshine - some 1980's relicts by the look of them... However, I did test most of them when I did this route a few years back and they all seemed to hold ok then (see example below of me putting my life on the line to test them for the greater good - only reason I fell off, honest...)



we went back on this for a photo shoot yesterday and the bolts are now monumentally bad - we weight tested most of them and they held but there's no way in hell i'd be getting on lead anymore

will see about replacing them next time i'm stupid enough to lug a drill all the way up Lion Rock

Post Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:49 am 
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overtech



Joined: 13 May 2007
Posts: 22
Location: HK NT

Found this amazing bolt resource, which will give you the low down on just about any bolt and its weaknesses.

http://bolt-products.com/

Please read the relevant sections if you are looking to place any permanent protection - YES that mean you too expansion bolters!!!!

J

Post Tue Apr 14, 2009 12:23 pm 
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stuart
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Aug 2004
Posts: 581

one more to add to the list - top anchor on Green Slab in the Sea Gully at Tung Lung - this time its the rock not the bolt that's going (several fractures coming out from the bolt hole)

we took out the anchor yesterday so lowering off is not advised now (top it out and belay as if you were trad climbing instead until some rebolts the anchor).

Post Sun Jan 03, 2010 10:34 am 
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