Ap Lei Chau Crags

A PDF guide is available for the crags here: Apl Lei Chau
(suggest print as multiple sheets per A4 page for best viewing).

ApLeiChauCrags

The crags on Ap Lei Chau offer a diverse mix of climbing style, from the short gym like routes of The Depot, longer sustained face climbing on The Fury Wall, to the short beginner friendly routes on Yellow Wall and Dump Wall. A few words of warning when climbing here however:

  1. Many of the crags are affected baby the tide so time your visit to low tide whenever possible; and
  2. Rock fall from the upper cliffs seem to happen quite frequently and its not uncommon to see new large blocks lying at the base of the crags, especially around Yellow Wall and Dump Wall. If you see these, be careful when climbing any nearby routes as loose rock may bee an issue. Helmets are recommended in these areas.

Welcome Wall
A couple of short routes on the first wall reached.

The Gallery
A handful of routes ninth small zawn just beyond Welcome Wall. Most routes affected by the tide and required abseil access to hanging stances.

The Depot
This crag is basically like a modern bouldering gym on steroids. Steep, powerful routes on (generally) positive holds. Partially tidal on the left side.

The Fury Wall
Quality face climbing up a sustained steep face providing some of the best routes at this area.

Yellow Wall
A mix of short slabby routes and steeper, longer lines up prominent features provides a good selection of routes at moderate grades.

Dump Wall
Short (very short) climbs up the slightly scrappy walls on the right side of the cliffs as they descend in height.

The Den
A combination of steep lines on the right and slab lines on the left provides a well shaded area to keep you busy. Some lines affected by the tide.

Welcome Wall

This is the first sector encountered when approaching on foot from Lee Nam Road. Several sheltered routes that force their way through the steep upper wall and a couple of introductory climbs for beginners. Routes 1 to 3 finish at a double bolt belay high on the slab above the wall.

Welcome Wall-01

1 – There’s no Mat F6b+, 15m, 6 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015
Straightforward climbing leads to the technical corner, which is taken direct.

2 – Point Break F6c, 15m, 7 Bolts ***
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015
Technical climbing on the lower wall capped with a dyno finish!

3 – Tuff Trip F6c, 15m, 6 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015
The finish is similar to a campus board session.

4 – Feudal Enterprises F4, 8m, 4 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 26/12/2015

5 – Welcome F3, 9m, 4 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015
To the right of the fixed ropes is a short wall of solid rock.

6 – Barnacle Crush F6a, 7m, 4 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 28/02/2016

7 – Fish Fingers F6a, 7m, 4 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 28/02/2016

The Gallery

Routes 1 and 2 start from a ledge and bolt belay just above the water line. Access is by abseil and a clam sea is recommended if you want to stay dry!

the-gallery1-01.jpg

1 – Lean to Port F6a, 8m, 4 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015

2 – Close to the Wind F6a+, 8m, 4 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel 20/12/2015
Deep water soloing these routes may seem logical however the water beneath this wall is very shallow and has submerged boulders seen only during low tide.

Routes 3 to 8 are accessed from the right side of the zawn, using abseils to reach hanging belays.

The Gallery(2)-01

3 – Plain Sailing F6a, 15m, 8 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/11/2015

4 – Manic Volcanic F6c+, 15m, 9 Bolts ***
FA: Francis Haden 01/01/2016
Taking the steepest line through the cave roof, this is an unusual kind of route to be found in Hong Kong. Despite the need for particular conditions and abseil access, this climb is well worth the effort.

5 – Lip Trip F6c, 13m, 6 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, 01/01/2016
Start as for Manic Volcanic but at a prominent jug adjacent to the third bolt, pull right out of the roof to a crux on the lip.

6 – Promenade Facade F4, 6m, 4 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje 23/08/2015

7 – Time to Get Physical F6a, 6m, 4 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje 23/08/2015

8 – Sinking Slowly F5, 6m, 3 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje 23/08/2015

The Depot

Bouldering wall climbing on steroids! A fantastic collection of super steep routes on positive holds. Unique climbing for Hong Kong.

the-depot-01.jpg

1 – Walk the Plank F6b, 7m, 6 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/11/2015

2 – Black Watch F6c, 8m, 6 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden 22/11/2015

3 – Crimson Tide F6b+, 9m, 7 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden 28/02/2016

4 – The Rush to Crush F6a+, 6m, 5 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 26/12/2015

5 – Lean Burn F7a, 12m, 7 Bolts ***
FA: Francis Haden, 25/10/2015

6 – Shark Attack F7a, 14m, 8 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden 28/02/2016
Crux sequence involves shark fin like holds!

7 – Diesel Power F7b, 14m, 7 Bolts **
FA: Neil Carruthers
Gymnastic hard climbing that tackles the stacked roofs where the cliff is at its steepest.

8 – The Devil Wears Prana F7c, 14m, 7 Bolts **
FA: Neil Carruthers 28/02/2016
Long dynamic moves, a dyno at mid height and a powerful finish equate to a route that shorter climbers will certainly find harder.

IMG_6509_ALC_Jack_Lin

Jack Lin on The Devil Wears Prana (F7c). Photo: Karen Chan

9 – Press Gang F7b, 14m, 6 Bolts ***
A fine bouldery route up the steep wall left of the corner. Initial moves on positive crimps, pockets and breaks bring you to an awkward clip and powerful pulls on small crimps up the blank section of wall (a bit of extra height is a definite advantage here). These lead (hopefully) to good ledges, which are followed to the top.
FA: Colin Rouse 15/11/2015 

10 – Final Approach F6c, 15m, 6 bolts ***
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 30/05/2015
Good climbing up the obvious left facing corner with a fun finish.

11 – Down by the Sea F5+, 10m, 6 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 30/05/2015

12 – Sideshow F6a+, 10m, 5 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Eugenie Knipper, Jon Knipper, Sue Hazel 10/01/2016

Fury Wall

Sustained climbs on the steep compact wall right of The Depot provides some of the best routes at Ap Lei Chau.

Fury Wall-01

1 – Collision Course F6b+, 12m, 5 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 23/08/2015

2 – Jumping Judy F6b+, 12m, 5 bolts ***
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 07/06/2015
Big power moves on good holds after the second bolt.

3 – Surf to Sun F6b+ ** Pitch 1: F5, 15m, 8 bolts; Pitch 2: F6b+, 15m, 9 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/11/2015
A fun outing taking the obvious left-to-right trending ramp, concluding with an exposed traverse beneath the roof that is decidedly easier if you are short. Take note that this climb crosses all the other Fury Wall routes so avoid choosing this during busy times!

4 – Simple Face F7a, 14m, 7 bolts ***
Cranking on crimps! Sadly this route often suffers from seepage issues.
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 21/10/2015

5 – One Ice Cream away from Happiness F6c+, 14m, 6 bolts **
A pleasant route up the left side of the main portion of Fury Wall. Good holds lead to a more committing crux at mid-height, beyond which further positive ledges and side pulls will bring the top (provided the pump doesn’t set in…)
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 21/06/2015

6 – The Fury F7a, 17m, 9 bolts ***
A crag test piece that forces a sustained line up the centre of the wall. Tricky to on-sight but relatively straight forward and soft for the grade once you know the modes. Follow a line of small ledges and edges up the middle of the wall until you reach a series of small overlaps at the last bolt. General consensus seems to be reaching out left to good side pulls at this point in order to get to the capping roof above and the lower off.
FA: Francis Haden 25/10/2015

Joost Swetter on The Fury (F7a). Photo: Stuart Millis

6a – The Fury (extension) F7b, 20m, 11 bolts **
Instead of clipping the anchor, traverse right underneath the roof (bolt) until it is possible to finish as for Lifetime Piling Up.
FA: Francis Haden 25/10/2015

7 – Lifetime Piling Up F7a+, 20m, 10 bolts *
Extend the bolt located in the corner with a sling to reduce rope drag. Do not swing around on the bolt over the roof as there are edges on the lip that may damage your rope!
FA: Francis Haden 13/12/2015

8 – Direct Action F6b+, 10m, 5 bolts *
A short technical and punchy little line up the clean corner on the right side of The Fury Wall. Intricate moves up the corner leads to the slopey shelf and (with the help of a little tree) the lower off
FA: Francis Haden, Jon Knipper 22/11/2015

Nick Street on Direct Action (F6b+). Photo: Stuart Millis

9 – Layer Cake F5+, 10m, 5 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 28/02/2016

Yellow Wall

A mixture of interesting lines following obvious features and short slabby routes on compact faces.

Yellow Wall (1)-01

1 – Persistence of Vision F6b+, 12m, 6 bolts
A technical and sustained climb up the steep wall on the left side of the crag.
FA: Francis Haden 08/11/2015

2 – Dry Rot F6a+, 17m, 9 bolts *
A fun route that weaves an interesting line following the path of least resistance. Take care around the start as the rock is heavily fractured and may have loose holds. The fourth bolt has a titanium chain extension to protect the moves onto the ramp.
FA: Francis Haden 08/11/2015

3 – Man against the Sun F6c+, 14m, 7 bolts
FA: Ray Lee, Terry Chan 03/11/2015
A brutal start to pass the first bolt is capped by a technical finish.

4 – Purple Fart F6b, 14m, 6 bolts
FA: Francis Haden 13/09/2015
Stay left of the last bolt to avoid suspect rock in the corner.

5 – And She Was F6b, 10m, 4 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015
The compact looking wall is surprisingly hard.

6 – Personal Space F6a+, 11m, 5 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015
A titanium chain extension exists on the penultimate bolt.

7 – The Wrecking Crew F6a, 9m, 5 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

8 – Wrecking F6a+, 9m, 4 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

Beware of loose rock in this area as it seems there have been several rock falls in recent years from the top of the crag

Yellow Wall (2)-01

9 – Bristol Fashion F6b+, 10m, 5 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Terry Chan, Ray Lee 23/08/2015
Technical, thin moves to become established on the obvious ramp line.

10 – The Corner F6a, 10m, 4 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

11 – Avon Calling F4, 10m, 4 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

12 – Everyman’s an Island F5, 12m, 4 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje, Terry Chan, Ray Lee 23/08/2015 

13 – Look Left, Ignore the Right F3, 10m, 5 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 14/02/2016
The rock is somewhat weak just below the anchor.

14 – Fishy Business F5, 10m, 6 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 14/02/2016

Dump Wall

Short technical and beginner routes on the collection of buttresses at the right side of the hill.

Dump Wall (1)-01

1 – Bolting in a Blizzard F6a, 6m, 6 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 14/02/2016

2 – Comfortably Numb F6a, 6m, 5 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 14/02/2016

3 – Parental Guidance F3, 8m, 4 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

4 – Sailing Close to the Wind F5, 7m, 5 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

5 – Fresh off the Boat F4, 7m, 4 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

6 – Ten Minutes F6b, 8m, 5 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015
Technical climbing leads to a tricky finish.

7 – Use Your Groove F6a, 7m, 5 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

8 – Edge Control F6c, 8m, 5 bolts
FA: Francis Haden 25/10/2015
Strenuous climbing over the roof!

9 – Sidekick F6a+, 8m, 5 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee, Terry Chan 23/08/2015

10 – Little Roof F6a+, 8m, 3 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

11 – No Peacock Strut F6c+, 8m, 4 bolts *
FA: Donna Kwok, Francis Haden 02/08/2015
The likely scene of many failed onsight attempts.

12 – Beach and Bosch F6b+, 8m, 4 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

The Den

A somewhat hidden area tucked away from the rest of the climbing on Ap Lei Chau. From the beach at the end of the other area, traverse left around the hillside to the opening of the cave and the climbing itself. Routes 4 to 7 are affected by the tide so plan ahead if these are on your tick list.

A – Den of Iniquity F6b+, 6m, 4 bolts
FA: Francis Haden 10/01/2016

IMG_3449-1_TheDen_Hilda_Chan

Hilda Chan on Den of Iniquity (F6b+). Photo: Karen Chan

B – Pocari Shake F6b+, 6m, 4 bolts
FA: Francis Haden 10/01/2016

1 – Wake Turbulence F6b+, 9m, 5 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015
Fun cranking through the bulges on positive holds to a lower off beneath the roof.

2 – Pai Topping F7c? 14m, 7 bolts *
FA: Open Project
Saunter up route 66 to the anchor beneath the roof and extend one of the bolts with a sling. Reach out over the lip and clip a bolt overhead then force a rock over to become established on the headwall. A final few moves gain an anchor above.

3 – Cave Rave F7a, 14m, 7 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Keung King 13/09/2015
Sustained climbing leads to a nicely positioned finish.

4 – Once In A Lifetime F6b+, 14m, 6 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Chris Mak 13/09/2015
Good climbing up the overhanging corner.

5 – Keel Thin F7a, 14m, 5 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 17/01/2015

6 – Splash and Dash F6a+, 10m, 4 bolts ***
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 17/01/2015

7 – Splash Down F6a+, 10m, 5 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 17/01/2015

Good quality slab routes that provide a contrast to the adjacent, overhanging climbs opposite.

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73 – Costa Del Chau F5, 12m, 5 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

74 – Of Cave and Country F4, 12m, 4 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

75 – Bedrock F6a, 13m, 4 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

76 – Sanctuary F5+, 15m, 5 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

77 – Caving in Daylight F4, 15m, 6 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015
Climb left of the bolts towards the top to avoid the corner where the rock quality reduces in quality.