Ap Lei Pai Crags

ApLeiPaiCrags

The crags on Ap Lei Pai peninsula are accessed via the small beach connecting to far side of the Ap Lei Chau Climbing area and include;

Ocean Wall
A collection of steep sport routes in the hidden cove on the NE side of the island.

The Cove
A Deep Water Soloing spot on the west coast of the island. High tides needed as its only chest deep during low tide.

Left Wall
A long wall of short (predominantly traditionally protected) routes on compact high quality rock. With enough pads, some climbs could even be treated as high ball boulder problems.

The Prow
A collection of high quality routes on steep rock on the buttresses at the far end of the island.

A PDF guide is available for the crags Apl Lei Chau
(suggest print as multiple sheets per A4 page for best viewing).

Ocean Wall

This sector offers quality routes on good rock up the gently overhanging wall. The setting is rather pleasant and also offers good opportunity for a spot of  deep water soloing and cliff jumping from the ramp on the left side.

From the beach connecting to Ap Lei Pai, traverse leftwards around the coastline just above the water line until a short scramble leads down to the crag. Routes 1 to 7 require abseil access to reach the starting ledge.

Ocean Wall-01

1 – Ocean Park F5+, 14m, 6 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/03/2016
Basically a warm-up route, the rock is weak towards the top on the left. Step right at the top onto the wall below the anchor.

2 – Ocean Endeavour F6c+, 14m, 6 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden 13/03/2016
There is a chain extension on the penultimate bolt.

3 – Ocean Pike F6c, 12m, 6 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden 13/03/2016
Fantastic climbing on positive holds but no peeking on the abseil if you want a flash!

4 – Marine Interdiction F7a / 7a+, 12m, 7 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden 19/03/2016
From the big jug on Ocean’s 3, blast out left and boulder your way up the wall via series of powerful extended moves.

5 – Ocean’s 3 F6c, 12m, 6 bolts ***
FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 21/02/2016
One of the best climbs on the wall.

6 – Cruise Control F6c+, 14m, 6 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden 13/03/2016
Great, sustained climbing on good holds.

7 – Coast to Coast F6b+, 17m, 7 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/03/2016

8 – Immersed F6b+, 12m, 6 bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 21/02/2016

9 – Free Admission F5, 14m, 7 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Darian Chan 13/03/2016
Follow the groove of route 84 to the roof, move right and cross over Immersed to exit as for Ocean Lark.

10 – Ocean Lark F5, 7m, 6 bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 21/02/2016

11 – A Drop in the Ocean F5, 6m, 6 bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 21/02/2016

The Cove

Deep Water Soloing in the cove on the west coast of the island. Access is by following the main path to the summit of Ap Lei Pai. Shortly after this, break right and bushwhack down the hill (some vague trails) to reach easy scrambles down on either side of the crag. Recommended to only use this venue for DWS during high tides as its pretty shallow in places. Also be careful of the rocks beneath the mouth of the right side of the crag.

This crag was only first experimented with in late-2019 so some suspect rock may still remain. Caution and cleaning recommended for further development.

TheCoveAccess-01

Left Wall Routes

Currently only a couple of easy’ish lines climbed – Lines 1 and 2 are both easy F6a’ish and have relatively safe splashdown depths. The other line looks plausible but might bee tricky to start (and stay dry) and could also get a bit too shallow for a route that high?

TheCove(left)-01

IMG_0627

Nick Street on the FA of Line 2. Photo: Bee Street

Right Wall Routes

Nothing topped out yet but plenty to aim for… Potential lines shown for inspiration! All of these require a low traverse (or boat) to access if you want to stay dry. The main wall looks awesome but could probs do with cleaning to check for loose rock. It also gets shallower in this area so be careful! Easiest way back out of the water is to swim around the big boulder and climb onto the small block behind it. You can rock hop to shore from here (just time it with the waves).

TheCove(Right)-01

Stuart Millis exploring potential lines on the right wall. Photo: Joost Swetter

Left Wall

This collection of high quality, but somewhat short, traditional climbs gives you a good excuse to dust off the trad rack and try and remember how to place your own protection for a change. Most routes have convenient bolt belays set back just beyond the top of the routes.

Left Wall (1)-01

1 – Gunpowder F6c+, 8m, 4 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015
Blast up the steep leaning wall left of the arête to a lower off.

2 – Lean too VS 4b, 8m *
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
Start just right of the arête. Climb onto the ledge; place a good cam and step left then move up to a series of overlaps. Pull directly over using a good jug out left and gain the top

3 – Starboard Side HS 4b, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

4 – Tuff Love E2 5c, 8m **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
The prominent overhanging groove is an exercise in placing gear whilst trying not to fall off! Force entry to the groove then battle your way to the top.

5 – Crab Walk HVS 5a, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
Start below a small corner. Awkward moves left gain entry to the corner above and flake line. A small cam protects the exit.

6 – Flake Away E1 5b, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
A large cam protects moves onto the ledge, arrange gear then follow the vertical crack above.

7 – Crack Attack VS 4c, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
The vertical crack.

8 – Cream Pai HVS 5b, 8m **
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
Great climbing, good gear and a challenging finish.

9 – Tuff Enough? E1 5b, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015
Start left of the mid height roof. Climb up into a small niche and arrange gear. Pull out on the right and follow a thin crack, with a testing exit. Sufficient gear exists however it is awkward to place on lead.

Left Wall 2-01

10 – Sulphur Shuffle F6a, 8m, 4 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015

11 – Left Wall F5, 8m, 3 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015

12 – Rough and Tuff HS 4a, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
The corner line.

13 – Do I Get Vouchers With This? E1 5a, 8m
FA: Francis Haden 16/03/2015
Looks sketchy and it is! Gear can be awkward to place.

14 – Ships That Pass All Day and Night HVS 5a, 8m
FA: Francis Haden 15/03/2015
Start below the blocky arête. A medium cam protects the start as you climb the arête from the left hand side to a rest point at mid height. Arrange gear and finish direct.

15 – Down by the Sea HS 4b, 8m
FA: Francis Haden 15/03/2015
The obvious curved crack.

The Prow

Located on the very far end of Ap Lei Pai, The Prow provides a compact buttress of gently overhanging sport routes in a stunning setting. Good swimming can also be had just beyond the cliffs, making for a nice day out.

The Prow-01

1 – Siren Call F5, 11m, 4 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

2 – Bullet Tuff F6a+, 12m, 5 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
Nicely sustained and with great holds.

3 – All to Port F6b, 12m, 5 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
Reasonable climbing leads into the left facing groove and the crux to finish.

4 – The Prow F6b+, 12m, 5 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 08/03/2015
Taking the nose of the wall direct on good holds that lead into the shared undercut rest of All to Port. From the rest blast out right to a good hold beneath the last bolt. From here final moves gain the anchor.

5 – Dragging Anchor F6b, 12m, 5 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

6 – Draggin’ Along F6b+, 12m, 5 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden 08/03/2015
Big moves through the stacked roofs low down lead to a crux finish on crimps.

7 – The Drilling Fields F4, 9m, 4 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

8 – Sideshow F5, 12m, 6 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

9 – Exit Right F5, 12m, 5 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015