Coming at a later date…
The large bloc near Lo Tsai Shek has an impressively overhanging face with several existing lines on it and potential for a number of very hard test pieces. Sadly, the landings aren’t great so bring plenty of pads (not easy given the relative inaccessibility of the bloc). The bloc also has some great looking potential for sport climbs which are currently being explored / developed (hands-off please…)
The bloc is approached from Hoi Ha Village, which is accessed using the No. 7 Green Mini-bus from Sai Kung Town Centre (or a taxi ride from Pak Tam Chung, which costs about $70). From the end of the road, follow the path through the village towards the beach. Continue past the beach and follow the footpath around the coastline, passing the WWF Marine Education Centre on route. When reaching the narrow spit connecting to a northern headland, double back south and continue on the trail running parallel to the coastline. This gradually increases in elevation and will eventually bring you to just above the bloc itself. Keep an eye out for a small trail on the left that takes you down to the bloc itself. All boulder problems are on the (very) steep northern face of the bloc.
Problems are described left to right, starting at the lower part of the face. Be warned. The problems are typically quite high, hard and above rather poor landings…
1) Obsidian ** V2
Start using opposing sidepulls high on the left arete and the crack to the right of this. Follow good holds right along the crack, making some big moves to jugs out right. Crank directly up from these to reach the break above, which is followed back out to the arete. Drop off from here unless you’re feeling very very brave…
2) Gabbro (sds) *** V5
Start on positive holds in the lower break in the middle of the face. Make a big move left from these to gain a positive jug. Continue straight up from this to more positive holds in the break above, which is then followed to the arete and a drop off finish.
3) Diorite (sds) ** V3
Start on the same holds as the previous problems, but this time launch straight up to the break directly above before following this back left to join the final break and same finish used for the previous lines.
4) Gneiss (Project)
Start at the right end of the obvious diagonal crack splitting the right side of the wall. Follow this left to join the previous problem, which is then followed to its end.
5) Tuff (Project)
An imposing and desperate looking line up the right side of the face. Start at the base of the diagonal crack and attack the wall above via small ledges and holds that then rapidly decrease in size and positivity. Finish when reaching the high break on the right of the wall and drop off.
6) Long Harbour (Project)
Another desperate looking line, this time following the lip formed by the left side of the crack splitting the middle of the face. Start matched in the obvious break low down.
7) XXX (Project)
Start matched on positive holds next to a small sloping ledge at the base of the middle of the wall. Follow the various discontinuous cracks left from here to eventually gain the left arete of the wall high up. Drop off from this.
8) XXXX (Project)
I’m not even sure if this one’s feasible! Start as for the previous line but break directly up the wall to attain the thin vertical crack rather than traversing all the way out left. Stop when things get to scary to carry on any higher (suggested to be where the crack breaches the lip of the wall).
9) Coarse Ash (Project)
Start on a positive crimpy ledge at head height. Crank right from this to more crimps before making hard throws out to the arete. Follow the lip formed by the arete until you get scared, decide enough is enough, and rockover on to the slab above to finish.
The broken wall to the right of the steep face looks to have potential for several amendable and fun lines.
A short distance to the north of the main bloc, and upslope of the footpath, is another bloc that may or may not yield some interesting lines.