Colins Boulders

General

This small concentration of boulders has by far the highest number of hard problems at Tsuen Wan, and possibly Hong Kong. Nearly all of them are of exceptional quality too.

Colins Boulders (PDF Download)

Approach

Tsuen Wan Overview v2

The easiest approach is to follow the approach to Lin Fa Shan to the abandoned school and, instead of turning left to Lin Fa Shan, continue straight past the buildings. Just beyond the small outhouse and at the bottom of the hill, a small dirt track breaks off left from the main dirt path and leads to the Split Boulder. It is also possible to follow the main dirt path up the small hill and, when near the crest of the hill, contour to the left a short way above a large boulder with an impressive face on the downhill side, before descending down the hill to the boulders. This approach however was very overgrown in 2019.  It’s also possible, and slightly shorter, to approach via Radar Rocks.

Sparkies Roof

Routes

colins plan

The Bamboo Boulder

bamboo boulder

(1) V3 * Jagged Edge (sds). Start in the slanting crack low on the wall and climb directly above this via a series of jagged pockets.

(2) V7 ** Mitchless. Start directly beneath two large pockets high on the wall. Using an assortment of small crimps and pockets, gain the large pockets before exiting slightly right to finish.

(3) V5 * Mango Power. From a good side pull and three finger pocket, move right to another good side pull and continue dynamically to the top from this.

(4) V1 ** Sleeping Snakes. Follow the left trending seam to a good flake at the top of the wall.

(5) V2 Hueco Wall (sds). Follow the line of large pockets to a thin finish above.

The Split Boulder

split boulder 1

(1) VB – 4a * Great Flake. The large curving flake line.

(2) VB – 4c ** Dark Path. The arete left of the large chimney.

(3) V2 ** Middle Earth. Thin moves up the middle of the wall leads to a large horizontal breaks and better holds.

(4) V0 – 5a * Driftwood. Start in the crack on the arete and move left in to the horizontal break. Follow the diagonal crack from this.

split boulder 2

(1) V2 * Edge of Insanity. Start on good side pulls at the right edge of the steep wall. Pull up to good pockets and rock right onto the slab. Follow this to the top.

(2) V0 – 4b * Moss Wall. Follow the mossy flakes up the centre of the slabby wall.

(3) V0 – 4c Pebble Wall. The slabby blunt right arete of the wall provides a tenuous line on friable pebbles and pockets.

split boulder 3

(1) V7 * Jaws (sds). The right side of the arete, avoiding the crack around the corner which reduces the grade to V3, leads to an intimidating finish above.

(2) V10 *** Seamless. Small crimps lead to a sloping jug in the middle of the wall and an exceptionally thin finish straight above (finishing slightly out left is slightly easier and about V8/9). In need of a sit start.

(3) V6 *** Trainspotting (sds). The right arete of the lefthand face (not using the right boulder) provides a technically challenging line.

(4) V4 * Underworld (sds). The left arete of the right boulder (not using the left boulder) provides a fun start and a challenging finish.

(5) V7 ** Raging Bull – Gaining the good side pulls on the lip of the boulder is somewhat tricky, using them to top out is equally as hard! It is also possible to finish out left using a good pocket, at about V5/6.

(5a) V9 ** – The fiendishly hard sit start into the starting holds of Raging Bull, before breaking out left to the pocket finish variant on that.  The real challenge (Raging Bull finish) still awaits an ascent.

(6) V2 * Moulin Rouge (sds). Start at a good side pull (sitting) on the right arete of the boulder. A few short pulls bring jugs, followed by a thin top out.

Above Sparkies Roof

above sparks roof

(1) VB – 4b Start just right of the big drop and follow the slabby wall above.

(2) VB – 4a The centre of the wall, following a vague line of pockets and breaks.

(3) V3 * (sds) From a sit start on the sloping rock ledge, reach up to pebbles and pockets and an easier finish.

(4) V5 ** (sds) Start at the sloping shelf and reach into the crack above. Continue directly above this to finish.

(5) V4 * (sds) Start in the middle of the sloping shelf and, using the left arete, reach to the horizontal break. Finish directly above this.

(6) V3 ** (sds) From the right side of the sloping ledge, reach right before moving up to the horizontal break. Finish slightly right.

(7) V1 Start as for Problem 6 but continue right along the good flake to a rounded finish.

Sparkies Roof

sparkies roof

(1) V6/7 *** Taipan (sds). The righthand lip of the roof, from a sit start by a small flake and pocket. Follow crimps and pockets near the lip until it is possible to gain a good crimp on the face above the roof itself. From here a powerful lunge leads to a jug and the top.

(2) V8 *** Gai Jin (sds). From a sit start at an undercut pocket follow the leftward trending break until it is possible to move out and right through the roof above.

(3) V5 *** Sparkies Amazing Technicolour Dream Roof (sds). Start on layaways at the back of the roof. Follow a line of holds out left to a break. Move back right before using small holds on the lip to make a tenuous move right to a good jug. Finish up the wall above.

(4) V5 ** Stuart’s Unimpressive Monochrome Nightmare Roof (sds). Follow SATDR to the first good break. Finish directly through the roofs above.

(5) V5 * Mojo Rising (sds). The short blunt rib has a powerful start and a slightly intimidating finish.

The Wave

the wave

(1) V4 ** Haunted House. Start at good crimps on a shield shaped flake. From these move up and right to a good sidepull in the crack. Launch back out left to sidepulls and finish direct.

(2) V7 * Ghost Train. In the centre of the wall is a rounded pocket and numerous small crimps. Choose which combination of these works best for you and make a hard move up to a deep pocket. Powerful moves left from this bring the crack, which is followed to the top.

(3) V9 *** Mega Tsunami. Start as for Ghost Train but continue directly up the wall above the deep pocket on tiny crimps to an un-nerving finish. An awesome, and desperate, climb.

(4) V3 ** The Alchemist. Climb the slabby side of the corner at the right side of the face. The crux is low down but the upper slab is still engaging enough to give food for though.

(4a) V4 *** The Flying Russian. Start on the positive crimps on the arete. Move up of these to a reasonable hold on the arete before breaking left to small crimps. Set up on these and then launch up and left for the big rail. Pull up from this to a positive pocket above and top out the highest part of the wall.

Uphill of Sparkies Roof

Screen Shot 2014-11-08 at 6.14.06 pm

(1) V1 Stair Master. With hands on good, but extremely rough, holds above the lip, pull through the roof and climb the easy slab above.

(2) V1 Crack and Slab. The prominent diagonal crack at the right side of the boulder.

(3) V3 *** Pranayama (sds). Sit start with hands in the short vertical crack and on small crimps under the overlap. Throw up and right to large holds on the left end of the ledge. From these move up and back left to get established in the groove system above. Follow this, first right and then left, to a high but pleasant finish.

(4) V3 ** Breath Easy. Those tall enough will be able to reach a good ledge at the left end of the wall. Make hard moves in order to get stood on this ledge and finish directly up the imposing wall above.

uphill of SR 2

(5) V1 * Pebble Wrestler. Start beneath the vertical crack and, using an assortment of pebbles, move up to finish on this.

(6) V1 ** The Blob. Follow and assortment of ‘blob’ like protrusions up the left side of the face.

(7) V2 * Pebble Wall. Climb the right side of the wall on small pebbles and crimps.

(8) V1 * Second Skin. Climb the centre of the wall, finishing up a shallow groove.

 

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