black kite crag

[BLACK KITE PIC]

General

A small selection of climbs located around Discovery Bay.

Note: The best time to climb there is when the tide is around or below 1 mt. It’s therefore best to check the tides before going.

Approach

Head to Lantau’s Discovery Bay via ferries from Central or bus from Tung Chung. Once at DB ferry pier walk towards the Marina Club. At the junction where the road on your left goes up hill , stay on the right and head towards the pier. Behind the guards box, follow the footpath signposted towards Mui Wo or Nim Shue Wan. Walk past the first and second beaches to a village. Follow the concrete path uphill and then back down through an area of banana trees. Upon reaching the first white cement hut, on your right with the beach on your left, follow steps down to the beach through a vegetable plot. Turn left at the beach and walk to its end from where the crag is easily recognised.

Routes

4 Seasons – F5+
Climb the face to the top where the 3rd bolt is.

Baby Swing – F6a+
Start with your feet on the stone.The first three moves are the most difficult ones.Tiny holds when going over the face to the top.

Pepper & Salt – F6c
Starting this route requires creative thoughts, tiny features and a lot of balance.

Dr Jeckill – Mr. Hyde & Grape – all F6a
Balancy and with tiny features. No bolts . Belay from top or top rope them after placing a sling on the anchor to avoid excessive rope wear.

Tomato Sauce – F6a
Probably the most interesting here with a balancy start and tiny holds. Climb straight up following the crack.
Monkey Riding – F6a
Climb it with your hands following the edge and nothing much but smears for your feet.

Easy 1- F4
A good way of getting to the top of the crag to set up top ropes for other routes.

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