birds nest crag

Approach

To reach Central Crags’ Birds Nest Crag, follow the approach to Mid-Levels Crag but continue up the slab rather than breaking off left. From the top of the slab continues on up the hill, staying left and following a fixed rope up a short scramble, to reach the base of the lefthand side of the crag.  For the buttress on the right follow a trail leading off before the fixed rope and then scramble up to ledges at the base of the climbing.

birdsnest_0008

Routes

General Overviewbirdsnest-web

Bird Nest Left Topo

birdsnestleft_web

1 – Black Magic – F6b**
F.A. Ed Pramuk, Paul Collis, Cosmin Andron & Willie Muirhead (2007)

3 – Birds Nest Soup – HS **
Up the crack / corner and then finish left with a belly crawl around the boulder at the top
F.A. Jason Eng & Simon Smith (2004)

3a – Birds Nest Direct – VS 4c **
As for birds Nest Soup but finish up and over the roof at the top.
Ed Pramuk, Tom Chew & Dan Hannah (2006)

5 – Out with the Old – F7b*
Hard opening moves involving crimping on razor blades in shoulder dislocating positions (sound nice?) leads to superb and slightly dynamic climbing up the blunt arete above.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2007)

6 – Open Project – F8b’ish
The obvious blank slab broken by a thin vertical crack. Start using the arete for the right  hand then quit it to enter in the difficult part with many hazardous feet .
Equipped  by Laurent Jacob in 2012

Easy Route – V Diff
F.A. Simon Smith and Jason Eng (2004)

birdsnestright_web

7 – Big Bird – F5**

8- Lascar – F6c**
Climb the obvious and diagonally left slightly overhanging crack. The climb gets progressivelly harder, not jumping on the belay being part of the game.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

9 – Contribution – F6c+**
Start Lascar using the first bolt before  moving right through the steep wall ahead before the crux to reach the upper edge of the crag just before the belay.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

10 – Concrete Poetry – F7b
Weird and unique hybride route. While not unforgettable, worth to climb anyway  as the first section has some original moves to reach a one finger hole ! Start immediatelly below the huge concrete block filling the left side of the overhanging corner. In the mid part, make use of all the available holds  either  from  real rock or concrete.
F.A.  Laurent Jacob (2012)

11 – Unbeatable – TBC (but likely F8b’ish)
The overhanging prow using small crimps and slopes on both sides with many hazardous heel hooks and dyno moves. Looks awesome.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2013). Equipped  by Laurent Jacob in 2012

12 – Brainstorm – F6c**
Start below the obvious overhanging corner and climb it to the top. Easy start then the things become a bit complex with unusual  holds and body positions.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

13 – Orange Gutter –
F.A. Jason Eng (2004)

14 – Golliwogal Lives – F6a*
On the left of “Trousers Off” an original trad route , completely cleaned from dangerous and loose rocks (there might be some more to be epoxy resin fixed) originally named : Gaullywogol Live
F.A. Dan Hannah

15 – Trousers Off – F6b+*
From the ledge on the right side. A route with an interesting hard start ,strenuous moves leading to an easier ending. Delicate second bolt clipping. Belayer needs to watch carefully.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2012)

16 – Robocop – F7a*
A 4 bolt short but spicy route. A lot of holds have been reinforced with epoxy resin. Hence the name of the route , half natural, half artificial. There are 5 or 6 weird moves on the first bolt before reaching a clipping position for the second bolt. Follow the bolts and use the arete on the right. A possible harder line if you avoid the arete completely.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2012)

Say something

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s