Cave Crag

Approach

Central Crag

Break right from the top of the streamline on the main crag approach and follow the  path a short way until you reach Austin Powers Crag. Continue past the base of this crag before heading slightly uphill at its far side and following another trail further right and to Cave Crag

Routes

Routes

1 – Blood and Water – F6a+

2 – The Joker – F6a+*
Start at the small concrete buttress towards the left end of the crag and climb p on to this using a combination of real rock, concrete and holds bolted on to concrete… Once established atop the concrete buttress continue a short way up the wall above before breaking out left along the slab, following the groove formed by this and the steep wall above. A short steep section awaits at the end of the groove. Recommended to abseil off rather than lower if you value your ropes as the anchor is set back beyond the lip of the crag.
F.A. Ed Pramuk & Phyllis Hsia (2006)

3 – Catch Me If You Can – F7c*
Start as for the Joker and follow this to the start of the slabby section. From here the difficulties increase considerably as you launch up and along the lip of the steep wall, following this to once again join the Joker towards the end of that climb. Same recommendation applies regarding getting back down the cliff.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2011)

4 – The Riddler – F6a+**
Tough moves off the ground lead to a brief bridged out respite before strenuous climbing up the middle of the wall brings you to a small notch in the overlap above. Pull though this and continue up the easy ground above to reach the belay.
F.A. Ed Pramuk, Richard Cuncliffe, Tom Chew, Jim Gray and Phyllis Hsia (2006)

5 – Batman and Robbed – F6a*
Another route with a short tough section straight off the ground.
F.A. Richard Cuncliffe, Ed Pramuk, Tom Chew, Jim Gray, Phyllis Hsia and Hanukah (2006)

6 – Rebar – F6c*
Technical moves up the lower wall lead to patches of concrete and protruding reinforcement bars beneath the overhang. Avoiding these as much a spossible make a long reach out to the lip of the roof before executing some gymnastic moves to ull through it. Continue up the wall and arete above to reach the belay.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2007)

7 – Pinhead – F5*
A fun little climb up the right side of the crag. start by clambering up the small spire of rock beneath the crag. Tetter up on top of this before stepping across the void and on to the crag proper just above the lip. Continue easily up the slab above to reach the top of the buttress.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2007)

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