Mid-levels Crag

Approach

Follow the approach as for Soho Crag. The best (safest) approach to Mid-Levels Crag from here is to scramble up the gully at the right side of Soho Crag and then continue right to reach the big easy angled slab. Continue up this until level with Mid-Levels Crag before heading off left to the base of the cliff.

Central Crag

Routes

The first two routes start of a small ledge high up on the left side of the crag, which can be reached from the approach to Forgotten Buttress.

French Legends Marc Le Menestrel and Laurent Jacob on Artwork

1 – Route 55 – F6b+**
The short corner/groove system at the left side of the crag. Start using either a big dyno or a stiff pull before continuing awkwardly up the wall above.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2012)

2 – Artwork – F8a***
Climb the thin groove up the middle of the blank looking wall, making use of a parallel groove to the left also, on sustained small crimps and footholds.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

3 – Single Malt – F6c**
Climb the slab and crack to reach the base of a hanging groove on the left side of the main wall. Follow this to its top and then step right when you reach the overlap. Continue up the bulging wall above to reach an anchor above the overhanging corner
F.A. Stuart Millis (2006)

4 – Open Project – F??
Hard – it must be if Laurent hasn’t climbed it yet….
Equipped by Laurent Jacob in 2011

5 – Road to Damascus – F6c***
A wandering line up the central part of Mid-Levels Crag. Start up the slabby corner at the base of the wall and follow this until it is possible to pull on the steep wall to the right. Big committing move let you get established on this before further committing moves up and right bring you into the crack system just above the tree. Follow the crack left for a few moves before moving up through the bulging wall above via a series of thin moves.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2006)

Dancing in Wanchai – E1 5b
A trad line up the prominent crack feature trending up and diagonally left across the wall. Break out of the crack and up towards the anchors of Single Malt to finish.
F.A. Eban Farnworth (2006)


6 – Four Ways – F6c*
Start up the steep wall at the right side of the crag to reach a left trending slab beneath an overhanging wall. Delicately pad you way up this using small holds and the left arete (but avoiding the corner or wall behind). Finish more easily up the crack and slab above. It is possible to avoid the technical thin slab via the corner crack to the right, although this obviously lowers the grade.
F.A. Ed Pramuk and Stuart Millis (2006)

7 – Battle of the Bulge – F6b
Start as for Four Ways but climb the arete on the steeper left hand side. Rejoin Four Ways and cross this at the top of the thin slab. From here break out right and finish up the steep wall above, tackling the bulge at the top via the crack line to the left of the bolts.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2010)

8 – Independence Day – F6a+***
Start close to the right side of the crag. Pull onto the steep wall using the lower part of the diagonal crack and get stood on this. Continue up the wall above to reach a small overhanging wall. Use good sidepulls to pull through this and get established on the slab above. Climb this until it is possible to make tricky moves left and up into the corner above. Follow this a short way until beneath a hanging groove in the wall above. Stiff pulls into this groove quickly lead to better hold and the top of the route.
F.A. Ed Pramuk and Gianfranco Bigazzi (2006)

9 – Hillfire – F6b+
The wall right of Independence Day – take several long slings to avoid rope drag.
F.A. Tom Chew and Gianfranco Bigazzi (2009)

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