Chung Hom Kok Boulders

General

A series of coastal granite boulders in a fine setting. The rock has largely been smoothed by waves meaning it’s quite kind on the skin, which is rare for a Hong Kong Granite. Most landings are reasonable but spotters and mats are still recommended.

Download the PDF Guide here: Chung Hom Kok PDF Guide

Approach

From Exchange Square, Central, take either the No. 63 or No. 262 bus to Chung Hom Kok. Stay on the bus through the village and alight at a small roundabout.

ChungHomKok Bouldering Areas

There are two possible approaches from here depending on which area you are going to:

Beach Boulders: Behind the bus stop, on the left of the roundabout, is a slightly overgrown footpath. Follow this down to a small beach and the scramble rightwards around the coastline. A degree of caution is required for this approach as most of the coastline is formed of slabs dipping into the sea. If no security guard is present at the Private Road an easier approach along this, and then down a slope just beyond the Satellite Station, is possible.

Coastline Crags: From the roundabout continue along Chung Hom Kok Road to its end, 25 minutes walk. Follow the steps at the end of the road down to the coastline and make a somewhat airy scramble leftwards to your chosen area (the easiest line is higher up just in the grass).

Hillside Boulders: From the roundabout continue along Chung Hom Kok Road until you get to a small roadside crag with a dozen or so easy bolted climbs on it. Scramble up a trail on the left side of the crag and follow this up the hillside to reach the boulders.

Problems:

Download the PDF guide

The Beach Boulders

ChungHomKok - BeachBoulders

The Pier Boulders

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(1) V0 – 4c Start at the left end of the block and reach for good crimps on a flake. Top out above these.

(2) V1 * The central crack line has a slightly insecure feel to it.

(3) V2 ** Thunderbird (sds). Start on good undercuts beneath the arete and slap you way up this, using the flake to the right and crack to the left.

(4) V1 * Follow the corner / groove, being wary of a loose looking block high up.

(5) V6 * The Mitchtrix (sds). Start sitting beneath a thin flake line. Slap your way up this, easier said than done, before reaching out right to finish on the slab.

(6) V4 * (sds) Traverse the sloping lip on the short wall, make a hard move round the arete and finish up the slab.

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(7) VB – 4b * The short face at the right end of the wall is climbed on good, but small, flakes.

(8) VB – 4a * The slabby groove / corner.

(9) V1 *** Climb the arete to the left of the groove, on its left side, with thin moves near the top.

(10) V1 *** The Mentalist. Follow a series of thin horizontal breaks up the right side of the big wall.

The Wave

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(1) V1 * The Flake. Follow the hanging flake to a precarious finish.

(2) V2 * Start beneath the roof, at good holds on the lip of the right end of the lower boulder. Traverse the lip / crack leftwards to finish above the arete.

(3) V4 *** (sds). An extension of Problem 2. Start sat on a boulder in the depths of the roof. Traverse the crack / lip between the boulders, with difficult moves round the arete, to join and finish up Problem 2.

(4) V5 * Patena. Follow a line of thin crimps to gain the break at the roof. Drop off or finish along the break.

(5) V3 *** Geoffs Arete. The excellent left arete of the boulder eases in difficulty after a thin start.

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(6) V3 *** Breach of the Peace. The slabby right arete of the face gives one of the best problems at Chung Hom Kok. Delicate smearing may or may not lead to the top.

(7) VB – 4a * The left arete of the face.

Geoff Breach on Breach of the Peace

Geoff Breach on Breach of the Peace

The Aretes

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(1) V6 * Mistress of the Universe (sds) Sit start at a reasonable side pull. From here use power and technical wizardry to climb the overhanging arete above .

(1a) V3 * Masters of the Universe (sds) Start matched on the slopey rail. Make a high step and rock out left to a good side pull. Finish directly above.

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(2) V4 ** The Power of Greyskull (sds) Undercut your way up the slanting crack / flake to gain the hanging slab above.

(2a) V7 * Heman (sds) Powerfully slap your way up the right side of the crack before making desperate moves up and onto the slab above.

Odds & Sods Block

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(1) V5 ** Mr Fantastic (photo left) Start on the right side of the sloping shelf. Make powerful moves left along this to gain the blunt nose. Throw up a high right foot and make a committing mantel / rock over onto the slab above.

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(1) VB – 4a * In the centre of the wall is a flake. Pleasant moves up this bring the top.

(2) VB – 4b * (sds) The angular arete of the lower block.

The Mothership

This is the boulder that spawned all other boulders. Its huge, so huge in fact that there’s not a single line up it yet. Some small one move wonder problems have been climbed on the flake in the middle of the overhanging face and potential exists for a few short problems up a crack and the arete left of this but, other than these, i’d recommend anyone intent on trying to climb it bring a rope and learn to defy the laws of gravity!

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The Jumper Area

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(1) V2 *** The Jumper. Success on the left arete of the face requires a slightly dynamic approach.

(2) VB *** Groove and Flake. The left slanting groove line provides a fine, if a little too short lived, problem.

(3) V3 ** Short Slab. The short slab at the right side of the face.

A big storm in 2008 managed to erode a significant area at the base of the concrete access road, leaving a newly exposed wall of granite in the area just off to the right of the Jumper Block.  Three problems have currently been recorded in this area.

wedgewall

(1) V2 * Start just left of the centre of the wall. Start on crimps for L and R hands with L foot smear. Move up on crimps to reach the side-pull for the right hand near the top, and use this to finish precariously.

(2) V3 ** Start in the shallow groove below the highest part of the wall. Use the flat hold to move up to R and L hand crimps, then make a large rockover onto your left foot onto the large flat hold, to reach better holds below the top. Finish easily.

(3) V1 Follow the diagonal crack at the right hand edge of the wall to the top.

The Pit

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(1) V6/7 *** The Perfect Traverse (sds). Start sat on a boulder at the left side of the sloping lip. Slap your way along this to a dauntingly thin finish up the blunt arete.

(2) V6 * Destructive Tendancies (sds). Crawl into the small cave beneath the crack and then thugishly fight your way back out. Taping up is highly recommended in order to preserve any degree of skin cover on your hands.

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(3) V8 *** Dominatrix (sds). Follow good crimps up the arete until it is possible to make a very big move up and right to a distant, yet positive, hold.

stu_dominatrix

Stuart Millis on Dominatrix (V8)

(4) V6 ** Some Like it Rough (sds). Follow the good crimps on the arete to the rounded lip. From here make a thin traverse left to the edge of the boulder and finish direct.

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(1) V1 *** Cure for a Sick Mind. The short hanging flake leads to a slopey top out.

(2) V2 *** Virtual Insanity. Start stood on the pointy boulder opposite the large juggy flake. Make a leap of faith across the void to, hopefully, latch the flake itself. Finish easily above.

Death Metal Area

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(1) VB – 4a *** Desication. Follow the line of broken crack up the short wall

(2) V1 * (sds). Climb the short slightly overhanging arete, using some of the cracks and jugs on its right side.

Screen Shot 2013-01-09 at 8.10.03 PM

(3) V6 *** Inseamnia. Start on the sloping lip and, with great difficulty, get established in the scope / seam above. Only one move but more physically draining than climbing a route!

(3a) V7 *** Inseamnia Low. Start matched in the scoop beneath the groove and then move into Inseamnia.

(4) V3 *** Death Metal (sds). From a sit start follow the overhanging finger crack through the lip to a strenuous rock over / mantle to top out.

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The Coastline Crags

ChungHomKok - Coastline Boulders

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(1) V1 * 100ft Traverse. A left to right traverse of the long wall, following a series of horizontal breaks.

(2) VB – 4c ** Follow a line of horizontal breaks up the short wall at the left end of the crag.

(3) V1 Start at the vertical flake line and climb the wall above, finishing up the short groove.

(4) V1 The vertical crack line at the right end of the wall.

An abundance of other problems / micro routes have also been climbed on this wall but, due to the lack of ‘distinct lines’, are not recorded in this guide. A little creativity should enable most climbers to find these problems.

Suetman Li on Fairy Steps

The Long Wall Block

 

(1) V3 *** Alien. Climb through the lip of the cave to a worrying finish above the slanting crack.

(1a) V7 *** Painful Birth. Start at a good, but small, slot with your left hand and positive holds in the roof crack with your right. Follow the crack through the roof of the cave, avoiding all contact with the wall behind you, to join the start holds of Alien. Finish up this.

(2) V3 ** Fairy Steps. From the lowest point on the slab make a rising left traverse to join a thin crack. Follow this to the top with some trepidation.

(3) VB – 4a. The short groove at the right end of the face.

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(4) V3 ** Versus (sds). Start on the positive flake and rock left to good holds. Finish directly above.

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(5) V6 *** Predator. From reasonable holds in the horizontal break, rock out right to the arete. From here a hard series of moves may or may not bring the good holds at the top.

(5a) V7/8 *** Predator (sds). Start with one hand in the crack on the left of the face and the other on the right arete. Pull up (from sitting) and paste your feet somewhere (the bendy will be able to do this before their bum leaves the floor!). Make some very hard moves into the horizontal break and finish as for Predator.

(5b) V9 *** Predator Low (sds). Start even lower down! Climb into the cave and start on the two lowest slots. Hard moves out on reasonable holds leads to a desperate struggle to exit the cave and get onto Predator (sds). Finish up this.

(6) V8 ** Gut Solo. The terrifying groove on the left side of the face. If you value your ankles, bring lots of mats as its high and hard.

The Hillside Boulders

The five-six sectors are located on public land and have a combined total of about 30 climb-worthy boulders, with a few unclimbed projects and potential for more. There’s a fair bit of variety in terms of the style of climbing, but only a few truly overhung lines – tends to be slabs, vertical or just off. Some of the better lines are a bit high, with a few of the lines 5+ meters tall. The rock is sharp, crystally granite and can be sandy/friable; that said, most of the loose rock has already been pulled off and some of the boulders are of very good quality. Given their exposed position, the rocks on the hillside dry very quickly after the rain.

Just beyond the roundabout is a small roadside outcrop with a few bolted routes on it, from here there’s a path that heads upward along a rocky outcrop. For the Big Boulders head up this and then when the path branches at the top of the rocky outcrop take a right and follow the trail for 2-3 minutes. For the other hillside sectors, keep on going uphill following the small trail – there is a T at the top of the hill – take the right. Total time from the road to East Side is roughly 10 minutes, and a further 10-15 to get to West Side. The trail is not in good shape – it’s tedious bringing big pads in – but it’s getting better every visit.

The Roadside Boulder

Host to four quality boulders, this small area has by far the easiest approach of any of the sectors – from the parking spot described earlier, walk directly across the road and 10 meters down into the brush. For the truly keen: lines 3 on A1, 1 on A2, and most of 1 on A3 stay dry with a light drizzle – heavy downpours cause runoffs that spread everywhere though. Sadly, being by the road, there is trash about – please help carry away whatever you can.

A1 Boulder

1. Roadside Crack *** V4 – Starting from the furthest left, traverse the entirety of the main crack to finish as for 3. Variations exist exiting early (exit A ~ V??, B ~ V??, C ~ V??). The variations would require cleaning and have not yet been tried.

2. The Seam (PROJECT) * (V5?) – Start with both hands in a small seam – paste your feet on nothings – and crank straight up and into the main crack from line 1.

3. Right Arete * V1 – Climb the right arete, staying on its left side.

A2 Boulder

1. Bold (心雄) (sds) *** V6 – Sit down start with a good left undercling and a good slopey ledge for the right. Head straight up and then veer left towards an obvious finishing jug while keeping true to the arete.

2. Shafted ** V3 – Climb the slab from a stand with poor crimps and ok feet. Balance up and left over progressively poorer holds until you obtain the good edge near the curve in the crack. Once established there, it’s a few deep breaths and then straight up and over via easy but intimidating moves.

A3 Boulder

1. PROJECT *** (V??) – The picture to the left does not do this line justice – it’s a big line. A very high (8 or 9 meters?) steeply overhanging crack over a sloped sandy landing. It’s hard, and will require pads and balls or a toprope. A more manageable project (V5?) is to try and simply match the ledge at about the 3-4 meter point.

A4 Boulder

1. PROJECT * (V??) – This 4 meter tall problem is nestled on top of the slabs on the backside of the big A3 boulder. The prow is more overhanging than it looks in the picture – head straight up it from a stand with positive edges that all seem to face the wrong way. May be very hard, but worth a look if you’re feeling strong.

The Big Boulders

Another quickly accessible area. A lot of rock… should be possible with some creativity to add to this list. B4 is way out of the realm of bouldering – it has a few bolts on top, and one face in particular looks like it’d have some amazing lines on it.

B1 Boulder

1. Size Matters (sds) *** V2 – Start sat with good feet, a right hand undercling and a left hand sloper. Move up to left hand edge, and a right hand sloper and finish straight up. May be harder for the shorter. A great problem.

B2 Boulder

2. The Scoop ** V2 – Deceptively hard climbing. Start from the positive holds in the scoop and head right over slopers (exit A). Do not fall on the last move. One can also finish straight (exit B) for a slightly less committing line of the same grade.

3. Easy Variation * V1 – Traverse into the end of NBYG on big holds.

4. No Brain, Your Gain (sds) *** V3/V4 – An awesome problem. From a sit with a good left pocket and the arete for your right, head straight up to a committing crux throw out left to join line 3. The boulder to the right of the crack is off. Worth having a big pad and a spotter. The direct line of NBYG (marked in the picture) goes at V5.

5. Ugly Sister (sds) * V2 – Sit with arete and whatever is reachable for the right. Climb straight up the right arete, without the boulder to the left of crack.

6. Fruit Ninja (sds) ** V3 – One of the rare ok traverses. From the low juggy crescent, head up to the slanting crack, and then towards the arete. Problem is over once you have turned the arete. Slightly exposed.

 

 

 

 

 

Chris Jenks on Living Small

One response to “Chung Hom Kok Boulders

  1. FYI The major hold on the V0 (1) on the pier boulders has been broken off the wall after a bit of a wrestle from a friend.

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