Clubhouse Cliffs

Sadly it appears that the Golf Club no longer permits access to these cliffs – unless approaching by boat you’ll probably need to head elsewhere

Stuart Millis on The Binge (E3 6a)

General

Clear Water Bay’s Clubhouse Cliffs has single and multi-pitch trad and sport climbs in a fine setting. A lot of potential for new routes still exists.

Approach

Continue along the road past the club house and take the first right turn. Double back on towards the Clubhouse on this road until you reach a small hill with a golf green at its bottom (do not walk on the green). Walk around the back of the green and contour around the hillside a short way before heading down to a small boulder with red paint marks and 2 bolts. It is wise to fix a short rope here. Descend to the larger boulders just below and traverse across a short intimidating step. Beyond this leave the fixed rope and scramble down through a vegetated area. Finally, down climb about 2m in a small chimney and follow an easy ramp to the foot of the cliffs.

Clearwater Bay

Routes

Clubhouse_web

1- First Son – F7c*
Start on the right hand side of the wall by a small groove. Climb this a short way until it is possible to move left on to the slab proper. Climb this, with increasing difficulty, to an overlap. Pull through this an continue up the wall above on very small holds to the large ledge.
F.A. Stuart Sharpless (2002)

2 – The Binge – E3 6a***
A fine rightwards trending hand jamming crack. Originally a dirt filled abyss, it was cleaned beautifully by John Lawton. Now it is a very prominent feature and is one of the best cracks in Hong Kong. Start beneath a small roof and climb awkwardly through this (crux) to the fine crack above.
F.A. Tim Brown

3 – In the Groove – E5/6 6b (F7a+)***
A fine feature and without doubt a beautiful line. Originally climbed by Dave Hesseldon with an in situ peg to protect an otherwise very run out crux section the climb was retro-bolted by Stuart Sharpless in 2000 following the loss of holds. Follow the obvious groove. Once passed the small roof on the left wall climb up a few meters before trending rightward.
F.A. Dave Hesseldon

3a – New Guinea – E2 5b
Start up the same ramp as for In the Groove. Upon reaching the vertical corner at the top of the ramp traverse left and swing around the corner onto a ramp to join the belay ledge on Bat Crack.
F.A. Tim Brown

4 – Bat crack – HVS 4b, 5b, 5a
From the large ledge at the base of the cliff angle up to the steep hour glass section of rock, which is climbed to the pinnacle and a ledge (crux). Belay/abseil ring bolt. Continue upwards, bearing slightly leftwards towards a block, then directly up to, and through, the small roof. It is possible to exit the first easy (good warm up) pitch via a long stretch right across the wall towards The Binge, or scramble left across and down to the abseil chain.
F.A. Tim Brown

5a – Floyd – E2 5c
The bolts on this climb are of unknown origin and should be backed up with gear whenever possible. Start slightly left of the first bolt. After clipping the second bolt trend right to a good No. 3 Camelot placement in a vertical crack. Trend back left continuing towards the bolt belay. Small wires were used on the first ascent, where they put them in we’re not sure.
F.A. Tim Brown

5 – Up up & away – E4 5c, 6a, 5c**
Start at the lower reaches of the ramp, almost where it meets the sea. Pitch 1, Climb Floyd to the bolt belay. Pitch 2, Head up, and to the left, to meet ‘Benny’ (the obvious stepped corner). From there enter the undercuts to the right and follow these until reaching the good ledge on Bat Crack (belay). Pitch 3, Place a high runner at the belay and follow a line out to the left (crux) around the hanging block to a bolt and peg belay.
F.A. Stuart Sharpless & Geoff Breach (2000)

6 – Troy – E2 5b**
A steep and strenuous line up the imposing wall. Begin 10m left of Floyd, just left of and below the small roof. Move up and step around onto the front face. Take the obvious line initially, but trend left up onto the small roofed and sloping ledge. Step right around to the arete (crux) and continue up this. (There is a direct start from below & on the right side of the wall where there is a small step and bolt.)
F.A. Peter Taw

The next two climbs are normally linked together to create an excellent E1 5a, 5c.

7 – Benny – HVS 5a*
Climb the obvious stepped corner about 15- 20ft to the left of Bat Crack. From the top of the corner continue up the right hand slab to a belay at its top.
F.A. Tim Brown

x – Tim and Pete’s, E1 5c**
Climb the flakes to the corner. Take the main crack to up and through the roof above. An old bolt is placed on the lip of this roof, and a set of abseil chains are located about 15 ft above that. An abseil from these chains is the easiest way down from this part of the cliff.
F.A. Peter Taw and Tim Brown (1989)

x – Benny’s Mate – VS 4c
Start 3m left of Benny. Climb up, then right, onto a left extension of the ramp to join Benny. Exit as above.
F.A. Tim Brown

8 – Big face, thin crack
An awesome looking line, not yet climbed.

9 – Big Crack – E3/4 5c**
This route takes the large crack on the left hand side of the large, gently overhanging face at the sea’s edge. There is a single bolt at the belay and you can either traverse to the anchors on Tim and Pete’s or take the ramp down or head over to the S’ cracks area.
F.A. Martin Foakes

The next climbs are around the corner from the Main face and are accessed by traversing around from Big Crack. This then leads to a ramp where you can either access the top of the crag or traverse further.

x – Mary Poppins – VS 4c**
Step right below the roof into the chimney, move up then on two parallel cracks. Exit right then up.

x – Two Dogs – HVS 5b
Step right into the chimney, or start direct with more difficulty below the right side of the chimney. Step right again onto the lower narrow section of the wall. Proceed all the way straight up (run out). two bolts.

x – Madonna – VS 4b
Easy yet very exposed. Move up the crack on the left of the chimney then step right across the chimney onto the small ledge and continue right, across “Two dogs”, to a bolt, and them move delicately around the corner to the exit crack. Beware of major rope drag!

11 – After Dark – E2 6a*
The stunning hanging groove. Start by scrambling 15m up easy rock left of “Mary Poppins”. From the ramp, traverse approx. 20ft across the slabby wall to a short crumbly traverse left. Make a hard move up the thin crack and belay at the base of the hanging groove. Follow the groove, traversing right underneath the roof to the top of the crag. Belay well back (really needs a bolt belay).
F.A. John Lawton and Martin Lancaster, alts (2000)

The next climb is best reached by climbing the ramp in-between Routes 9 and 10. Go over the top of the zawn and either down climb or abseil in.

12 – S Crack – E1 5c**
The obvious S shaped crack on the wall across the zawn. A bolt protects a hard move below the crack, after which well protected climbing leads to the top.

One response to “Clubhouse Cliffs

  1. We tried to visit this site but got escorted off the country club property. There is no access except through the country park and only members are allowed in to the club grounds.

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