eagle crag

General

Situated on the same headland to the south of Pui O as Temple Crag, Eagle Crag offers climbs similar in nature to those found at the more popular Beacon Hill, except here the crag is more than twice the height. All of the climbs are between 18 and 24 m in length and the majority can be lead safely on natural gear. As with all crags in Hong Kong, no retro-bolting of existing routes please. There is still scope for many new routes on the crag and numerous boulder problems can also be found in the area. A PDF guide for the crag can be downloaded here: 150316 EAGLE CRAG GUIDE

The crag is located on the shoreline of the western side of the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula, Lantau Island, below Temple Crag.

Approach

Catch the ferry from Central, pier 7, to Mui Wo (Silvermine Bay) on Lantau Island and then take a 10 minute bus ride to Pui O. Alight at the first stop in the village.

Walk the path across the marsh to Ham Tin. Follow the road for 10min to the beach (stay east of the river/estuary) and then take the obvious path along the peninsula. When almost directly beneath Temple Crag, and just after passing a grave site located above the footpath, a small bridge crosses a large stream channel. Approximately 5m before the bridge a small dirt path leads down the hill to the coast. Follow this path to the sea and scramble along the coast line until you reach the crag. This is marginally trickier at high tide. Without doubt the nicest way to arrive is on a junk trip with a tender (dingy) to enable access to the rocks.

Routes

1 – The Gift – F7a***
A superb line. Thin moves into the shallow scoop low down leads to even thinner moves higher up.
F.A. Paul Collis & M. Lancaster (2003)

2 – Liam’s Cry – E1 5b
Start at sea level, climb up into the slightly overhanging crack line until it forks just below a small tree. Take the right hand fork (crux) and move up to a small stance. Finish up the vertical crack to a belay above. Best done at low tide to avoid upsetting your belayer too much! (Best not done at all to avoid upsetting yourself too much either!)
F.A. Storm Bate

T.R – Top Rope Problem – 6a
Start at sea level and climb the arete up and over the sloping ledge. Continue up without straying around the corner

3 – Surfers Wave – VS 4c
Climb the obvious diagonal crack and then vertically to a small ledge. Move left and climb up behind the small vertical face to belay, or alternatively finish up the vertical crack.
F.A. Keith Rayson

4 – Grave Digger – E1 5b**
Climb the corner crack over sloping ledges to a good ledge next to a small tree. Move up the tight corner, past three bolts, and then step right onto the slab. Finish at a tree belay.
F.A. Ken Brown & Storm Bate

5 – Junk Trip – E2 5c***
Follow the curvy crack line to the left of the overhanging face. Make a strenuous move up to a small ledge (crux). Continue up the crack in the corner to the belay. An alternative, and more satisfying, finish from the small ledge is to move right and ascend a small flake and climb the slab and arete (1 bolt).
F.A. Ken Brown

6 – Eagle Paradise – F7b***
A superb problem up the steep wall right of the curving crack line. Follow the large juggy flakes to a thin move to reach the last bolt.
F.F.A. Rocky Lok (Bolted by Martin Lancaster)

7 – S & M – F7c**
A fierce and technical climb. Start at the base of a short vertical crack. Establish yourself on this before making hard moves right to a good hold. Compose yourself before making further difficult moves back left to a second short vertical crack. Move right once again to a good hold and then continue up the wall above, moving slightly right to use some good side pulls. Hand traverse the lip of the ledge to the lower off for Route 6.
F.A. Colin Spark & Stuart Millis

8 – Jumping Jack Flash – F6c**
Climb the overhanging face by a small pinnacle and diagonally right onto a slab. Climb to the centre of the large block and move up on thin holds. Continue up the block and finish up the vertical wall.
F.A. Storm Bate & Ken Brown

9 – Chinese Dominoes – E1 5c
Start at the same spot as ‘Keith’s Pride’ but climb onto the small vertical face and then move diagonally up and left to an obvious small crack. Climb up the crack over the bulge to the right and cross to the lowest corner of the large block. Finish up the wide crack in the block without using the adjacent pinnacle (crux).
F.A. Ken Brown

10 – Keith’s Pride – HVS 5a*
Climb to the foot of the small vertical face, move right and then up on friction holds. Continue up to the lowest corner of the large block before climbing up and onto the adjacent pinnacle. Finish up the vertical face (crux) to the belay. An easier alternative finish is to traverse beneath the block and up the narrow chimney on the side.
F.A. Keith Rayson

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