Garden Buttress

General

Garden Buttress is a small crag in the forest on the quiet north slope of Siu Ma Shan above Quarry Bay on Hong Kong Island. The crag was developed by Bob Moseley and Renée Mullen with a climbing-gym sensibility, meaning the routes are short, steep, comfortably close together along a single continuous wall. The lines are well-protected and with carabiner anchors to eliminate the hassle of threading rap rings on the final lower. Please be careful of the hose hanging along the bottom of the face. It provides water to the morning walkers garden.

Several other small buttresses with potential for a few routes on each have also been discovered (but not yet developed) in this area, including Morning Buttress and Sir Cecil’s Stump (plus a few others…)

A full PDF guide to the Mount Parker Area can be downloaded here

Access

The easiest way to approach these crags is from the Braemar Hill Road Amenity Plot at the bottom (eastern) end of Braemar Hill Road, just after the turning for Choi Sai Wu Mansions. From the park, pass through the gate and follow the trail (Po Luen Path) up the hill, staying right and crossing a stream shortly thereafter instead of following the more prominent set of steps that break left and upwards. After about 10 minutes, this will bring you to Sir Cecil’s Ride. Turn left and follow this path around the hillside until reaching a set of step breaking right, sign posted to Mount Parker Road. From here ascend the narrow, paved trail a short distance to the top and the intersection with trail to Morning Walkers’ Garden.

Garden Buttress

To reach Garden Buttress, turn west and ascend gradually for about 200 m to the Morning Walkers’ Garden. Pass through the entrance gate and wander to the back of the park, up two short sets of steps. Descend a short distance to an abandoned catchwater ditch, which is now a well-travelled trail. Follow the “Garden Path” across the mountainside for about 300 m to base of climbs.

To reach Morning Buttress, stay on the main path a short distance downhill before scrambling off to the right to reach the obvious cliff face. Sir Cecil’s Stump is reached by continuing along the trail until it rejoins Sir Cecil’s Ride. This is followed until just after the intersection with the Wilson Trail (signposted to Siu Ma Shan), where a small dirt trial breaks downhill to the left and to the crag.

The crags can also be reached from Mount Parker Road, using Sir Cecil’s Ride to approach from the east. This approach however involves significantly more uphill travel so is not recommended unless your legs need a good work out.

Garden Buttress Local

Routes

Garden Buttress

GardenButt-01

(1) Lithophilic F5
The farthest left route on the crag, starting on the embankment.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)

(2) New Oreo Head *** F6b
First route to start in the catchment canal. Direct line with hard moves in upper half.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2018)

(3) Lithosuction F6c/7a
Shares the first two bolts with Morning Walk but then heads straight up the face. Two variations are possible to climb this route: i) Direct up the bolt line, the harder of the options; ii) Using patina, ledge and a diagonal crack on the face to the right of the bolts.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Joost Swetter (2020)

(4) Morning Walk F4
Start by clipping lower two bolts on the face, then head right following the ramp to the corner and final moves to anchor. This climb involves a significant traverse so it’s not a good top rope and difficult to clean while lowering from the anchor. Best for the second to follow and clean.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2018)

(5) Direct Walk F6b
The direct line to the Morning Walk anchor. After climbing past three bolts on the tricky lower face, merge with Morning Walk at the ledge before following this for one more bolt to the top.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2018)

(6) Firefly F6a+
Same start as Flakes of Deception, then head left up bolt line to anchor.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2018)

(7) Flakes of Deception F6a
Climbing the obvious features is trickier than first appearances would suggest…
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2018)

(8) Crystal F6b+
Climb the quartzite dyke to the upper face, staying right to get the full experience and hardest climbing. The more you wander left in the lower part (towards Flakes of Deception), the easier the climbing gets.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)

Morning Buttress

Morning Buttress is the obvious line of buttresses located just above the Morning Walker’s Garden Path as it descends back towards Sir Cecil’s Ride, with a large roof split by a wide crack at its left end. Two routes have currently been bolt and climbed on the main buttress.

(1) Quarantine Crack ** F6c+(‘ish) – to be honest, god knows how you grade something like this…
The obvious wide crack/chimney has a powerful start followed by a classic thrutchy finish. Wear durable clothing and long sleeves if you value your skin…
F.A. Stuart Millis. Bob Moseley (2020)

(2) Morning Has Broken * F6a
Start at the left edge of the main wall of the buttress. Make tricky moves up the corner and onto the slab before romping up this to reach the obvious layback crack. Attack this with gusto to get stood on the ledge, from which the anchor can be reached.
F.A. Stuart Millis. Bob Moseley (2020)

Route Feedback

Coming Soon
Lithophilic
Lithophilic
Lithophilic
Coming Soon
New Oreo Head
New Oreo Head
New Oreo Head
Coming Soon
Lithosuction
Lithosuction
Lithosuction
Coming Soon
Morning Walk
Morning Walk
Morning Walk
Coming Soon
Direct Walk
Direct Walk
Direct Walk
Coming Soon
Firefly
Firefly
Firefly
Coming Soon
Flakes of Deception
Flakes of Deception
Flakes of Deception
Coming Soon
Crystal
Crystal
Crystal
Coming Soon
Quarantine Crack
Quarantine Crack
Quarantine Crack
Coming Soon
Morning Has Broken
Morning Has Broken
Morning Has Broken