The Other Side

Several lightly documented areas also exist on the western side of Shek O Beach, including the Hillside Boulders and The Other Side. Lots has already been climbed here (up to V10), I just haven’t got round to writing all of it up in detail yet. Hopefully full details will be ready mid-2020.

Shek O Bouldering Areas

Basically, anything of moderate grade and reasonable (and in some cases, unreasonable) height has already been sent – some of these lines area indicated on the topo’s below, but not everything that was climbed.

The Other Side

Impossible Dream Wall

The first clean wall you reach whilst traversing the coastline has several ‘potential’ lines on it, none of which have been climbed yet as they’re very highball (or crazy hard) and approaching solo / trad climbing territory rather than bouldering. 

1) Corner – V Scary
More of a solo than a boulder problem. Climb the obvious corner and crack.

2) Crack * V Scary…
More of a solo than a boulder problem. Climb the obvious sickle shaped crack line.

3) Thin Cracks – might not even be possible

4) The Impossible Dream
See picture below (Note – Jose was ‘assisted’ through the beginning moves)- still a very highball project with a crazy hard (impossible?) start… The top looks possible, just insanely scary… 

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Warm Up Block

The block behind the Impossible Dream wall has several moderate problems on it, most of which are above poor landings that need well padding out.

Rogue Wave Blocks

Just right of Warm Up Block and at a lower level are several wave washed faces, with a couple of easy lines on the left and a harder line (low start) on the right. As the name suggests, beware rogue waves that can give you a soaking… 

1)

2)

3) Tempting Fate * V? 
A leftwards trending line across the lip of the overhanging wall. Beware rogue waves taking out climbers and spotters alike…

Stuart Millis (and spotter) Tempting Fate

The Long Wall

1) Grit n Bear It – V6’ish
Start on the good undercut before powering up and left to the gritty grainy hanging flake.

2)
Start as above but stay right and off the big flake

3) Overjoyed * V4
The blunt arête is climbed from a low’ish crimp on the left wall and a higher right crimp around the corner. Use these to get right hand established on the good flake before powering up for the lip. Stay left and above the arête for a ‘heart in mouth’ finish. So named as Sharon was stoked on getting her first ever FA!

4) Trepidation ** V3
The wall left of the quartz vein is climbed via positive holds and a precarious top out.

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5) In Vein * V2
Climb the quartz vein. Not as easy as it may first seem.

6) Diagonal – V1
Follow the obvious diagonal crack leftwards across the face

7) Jose’s problem – V (hard)
Sit start at the flake and horizontal crack and make difficult moves to get established on the slab straight above. Has a bad landing and hard awkward moves… 

8) Han Solo * V2
Climb (solo) the highball corner line. 

Stuart Millis high on Han Solo

Stu’s Block

Undoubtedly the best bit of rock on The Other Side, with good problems and okay landings. 

1) Compression Session * V9
Starting from a good left side pull (level with the end of the diagonal seam) and a small right, establish yourself on the overhanging face and then squeeze and slap your way up this to the jugs on the lip. Very hard and condition dependent.

2) Semisonic *** V5
The best problem at The Other Side by a long way. The central line up the middle of the face is both technical and committing, with the crux right at the top. 

3) Sneaking Out ** V2
Start on the obvious central jug before moving up to good crimps and then making long reaches out right to the diagonal crack, which is followed to the top.

4) Pick and Mix * V2 to V3
Start on low crimps and then climb the right side of the block, either heading out to the arete before slapping back left to good holds, either using the big jugs behind the lip (V2), just using the lip (V3), or staying just on the crack/face itself (also V3’ish)

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Christophe Torresse on Semisonic (V5)


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Stuart Millis attempting a Compression Session

Jose’s Cubes

The last set of blocks includes a few low ball problems on the standalone cube as well as a few fun climbs on the angular wall behind this.

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Hillside Boulders

Shek O Hillside Boulders

coming soon… (as a general rule, if you don’t have to project it, its been sent already. Problems up to V10 have been climbed in this area..)

Screenshot 2019-09-10 at 9.23.06 PM

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Rocky’s Arete (V10)

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