September Crag

Approach

Kowloon Peak’s September Crag is located about 200 yards uphill of Aquila Crag and the Split Boulder. The best approach is to head to Aquila Crag starting at the cement stairs that begin off Old Clearwater Bay Road, approximately 100 meters above the Good Hope School. Follow the obvious track to the right of the electrical pylon. The first crag is Split boulder about 100 meters from the start. Aquila can easily be seen to the right of Split boulder. Continue moving up past Split boulder for another 100 meters and you will reach September crag.

Kowloon Peak Crag Map

Routes

septembercrag_webtopo

1 – Scrub – HS 4b
Climb the gully at the left hand end of the main portion of the cliff. Finishing up to the right of the leaning flake.

2 – Hesitation – HS 4a
Start at the base of a diagonally leftwards trending crack near to the right hand end of the face. Follow this crack diagonally upwards to the crack right of Scrub and climb this to the top.

3 – Tree Route – S***
Start at the base of a diagonally leftwards trending crack near to the right hand end of the face. Follow this a short way before climbing the vertical crack direct to the top.

4 – Indian Summer – F6b+***
The classic of the crag. Climb the hanging groove at the right hand end of the face until forced through a small overlap onto the slab above. Move up the slab, trending left, to a second overlap. Make a large reach through this to get established on the slab above and climb this to the bolt belay at the top.
F.A. Martin Lancaster (1991)

Two additional bolted lines were established by Rocky Lok to the right of Indian Summer, the first of which (direct) is about F7b whilst the line breaking out right of this is about F7a. More details to follow later on…

5 – Appealing – HS 4a
Start on the slab to the right of a bulging crack, directly in front of a large tree, further down the hillside. Climb the slab on small pock marks, trending slightly right to its centre. When the pock marks run out move right to the edge of the slab and follow this to the top.

6 – Bambi – S
Climb the rib about 20ft above the bottom of the gully.

7 – Round About – V Diff
Climb the corner line at the base of the gully, finishing about 6ft to the right of a good belay tree.

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One response to “September Crag

  1. Two new bolted routes between No. 4 and No.5 were developed by Rocky Lok several years ago, the straight up one is 7B while the same line turn right is about 7A+.

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