Lamma Boulders


General

A large hillside covered with, generally good quality, Granite Boulders. The relatively short and easy walk-in (once you actually get to Lamma), pleasant views and good sea food restaurants in Sok Kwu Wan, all make for an enjoyable day out.

Download the PDF guide

Approach

From Central Ferry Pier No. 4 take the ferry to Sok Kwu Wan, which departs from the left side of the ferry pier (check schedules). The ferries from right side go to Yung Shue Wan and add about 45 minutes to the approach walk so avoid these! Ferries also run to Sok Kwu Wan from Aberdeen too (see above link for schedules)

LammaFerry

From the ferry pier in Sok Kwu Wan head right and follow the main path past all the sea food restaurants to a small open area. At the far left corner of this square is a staircase and footpath which lead up the hill (signposted to Tung O). Follow this path uphill until a small shelter is reached, approximately 20 minutes. Taking the right hand branch in the footpath leads to the Pagoda Boulders, whilst the left takes you to the Ling Kok Shan Boulders.

Lamma Bouldering

Routes

Lamma Pagoda Boulders

(1) VB – 3c The easy arete also forms a good descent route

(2) V4 ** Butt Crack. On the lip of the face is a seam. From a good foothold hop up to this seam and scrabble to the top of the boulder. Definitely much harder for the vertically challenged!.

(3) V1 ** The short wall, between the arete and crack, is climbed using both of these features.

(4) V1 The crack itself has a distinctly unpleasant feel about it.

(5) V4 *** Mantle Piece. In the centre of the wall is a vertical crack. Start matched in this and reach for the sloping lip of the boulder (bouncing for the lip straight from the start is cheating). Gaining the lip is relatively straightforward, matching it and topping out is another matter.

(6) Project. The right to left traverse of the sloping lip, finishing as for Problem 5, will definitely need cold weather.

(1) V5 ** Reasonable holds in the break allow poor holds in the scoop above to be gained. From here even poorer holds may or may not bring the top.

(2) V3 A relatively poor problem up the short steep face round the corner, finishing at the tree. Start by jumping for a good hold in the break.

(1) V0 – 4c * The thin slabby face at the left end of the boulder.

(2) V0 – 5a * Follow a series of small crimps and flakes up the short wall.

(3) V0 – 5a * The flared crack leads to sloping, and slightly insecure, top out.

(4) V1 ** The left side of the arete is climbed using good, but spaced, holds on the face and slopers on the shelf

(5) Project The left arete of the back face of the boulder has potential, but has not really been attempted yet.

(6) V3 ** Crystal Crack. The crystaline, and slightly crumbly, crack peters out at the top of the boulder, where and insecure finish awaits. Scampering off right eases the grade to V2.

(1) V1 ** Good crimps in the lower horizontal cracks bring even better holds in the break above. Finish in the scoop above.

(2) V0 – 5a * Use the vertical crack to gain good holds in the large horizontal break and trend right to finish.

(3) V3 ** Round the Horn. Around the corner is a long slanting crack. Start two-thirds of the way back along this and traverse right out to, and around, the arete. Continue right, past the vertical crack, to finish up the small scoop. In need of a sit start and direct finish up the arete.

(1) V3 *** Smear Test. Start at the scoop beneath the highest part of the boulder. Get established on the slab and then smear tenuously and directly up the wall above.

(1a) V6 ** Smear Test (sds). The sit start to Smear Test is both fearsome and tricky. The crux, however, is deciding whether it’d be easier facing left or right!

(1) V1 The right arete of the face.

(2) V2 The centre of the face, starting up the thin vertical crack.

(3) V5 * Escape from Hell. From a crouching start with hands matched on poor holds on the lip of the bulging arete make hard moves up and onto the slab. The tall will be able to sit start the problem.

(4) V1 (sds) The crumbly flake and crack on the left side of the face are followed to good holds on the block at the lip.

(1) V3 * Start at the small seam on the blunt arete. Swing left onto a good foothold and mantle to finish. Tackling the bulge of the arete direct increases the grade to V4

(2) V2 * Climb the thin wall to join the left end of the horizontal crack. Finish through the rounded edge above.

(3) V2 * Step up into a small scoop and exit left to join the horizontal crack. Finish directly above the right end of this.

(4) V1 * The right arete of the wall can be climbed with a little assistance from the flakes out left.

Lamma - LingKokShanBoulders

(1) Project. Climb the slabby face using holds on both the left and right aretes.

(2) V8 *** The Golden Arete. Undoubtably Hong Kong’s finest arete climb. Layback the curving rounded arete. Easier said than done due to an almost complete lack of footholds.

(3) V3 * Move up the slabby righthand side of the arete until it is possible to swing left on to poor footholds. Tenuously mantle to finish.

Mitch LeBlanc on Golden Arete

(1) V1 From reasonable holds on the sloping shelf, climb the short arete.

(2) V4 ** Traverse the thin crack and shelf beneath the overlap. All holds above the overlap are out of bounds until you top out at the right end of the face.

(1) V5 ** Sleepy Hollow (sds) From good holds in the cave, reach out right and climb a series of diagonal breaks that lead back up left.

(2) V4 * Twinkle Toes. Start at the right end of the boulder and, using the horizontal breaks for foot holds, make a somewhat airy traverse out left above the lip of the roof until it is possible to finish directly up.

Boulder D

(1) V0 – 4b Follow the vegetated left trending crack.

(2) V3 * Pop Tart. With your left hand on a reasonable sloper on the nose, pop up and right to a good hold. Mantle to finish. A true hanging start from the sloper awaits an ascent.

(3) Project. Start at the good side pull on the lip and throw up to poor holds in the seams above. Somehow use these to finish.

Boulder E

(1) V3 * A Donkey on the Rock (sds). Start with one hand on the lip and one buried in the crack under the roof. Fight your way through the lip and up the crack  above. It feels about V10 if you’ve not taped up!

Other Potential

The hillsides above the Ling Kok Shan Boulders are littered with other boulders. Brief explorations of these found few ‘areas’ with substantial numbers of problems. Odds and sods were found and climbed, and these included some very nice problems. However, it was decided to leave the area undocumented for the time being.

One response to “Lamma Boulders

  1. Found a boulder further up past Ling Kok Shan right along the sidewalk. The V1 I actually started with a foot on the sidewalk. The right arête is a smeary V0. On the front face there is a crimpy V1 on the left side. There is a much harder project just to right of the V1. It has a balancy start and follows some sloping dishes – really nice looking problem. I have some photos to show the location if there is somewhere to send them.

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