River Crag

General

Six bolted mid-grade routes on a crag in a stunning setting next to a large waterfall, with a well placed pool to cool off in once you’re done with climbing.

Take a 70 m rope if possible as a 60m is not long enough for some routes. Bring lots of water or a filter.

Access

From Tung Chung MTR, take a short taxi ride from the stand near Exit D and tell the driver to go to Wong Lung Hang road, New Tung Chung Hang village. The taxi driver can take you along the road, past the village to a gate. Alternatively you can take a minibus from Tung Chung to the village and walk about 15 minutes to the end of the paved road.

The hike up the river has a lot of scrambling over boulders and is a bit more difficult when there is a lot of water or the rocks are wet after a heavy rain. Flash floods are also a consideration in the summer. It takes about an hour to hike up to the crag and you will see the large wall on the left appear soon after climbing up and over the large pool and waterfall.

The final approach to the base of the crag involves climbing a steep cliff on a fixed line followed by an about 8 m solo around an arête. Although relatively easy (about F4), this scramble is above a big drop so it should only be attempted by competent parties under good conditions.

Decent from the base of the crag is best done using the rappel rings down the small waterfall. Whilst this means you and some of your gear getting wet, it is decidedly safer that attempting to down climb – its also a great fun way to end your day!

Routes

The routes provide 25 to 35 m long wall climbs needing up to 14 quickdraw.

Topo from 27Crags

1) That Thief – F6b
F.A. Ed Pramuk & Phylis Hsia (2010)

2) The Italian Job * F6b
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi & Edoardo Cordello (2010)

3) Hilti Ballast ** F6b
F.A. Ed Pramuk (2010)

4) Whipping Cream * F6b
Start from the upper ledge. 30m long
F.A. Ed Pramuk & Tom Chew (2010)

5) Knot Your Rope – F6a
F.A. Tom Chew & Ed Pramuk

6) Had Balls – F6a+
Originally climbed on natural protection but subsequently retro-bolted by the first ascent crew. 35m long.
F.A. Tom Chew (2010)