New Routes / Boulder Problems

If you’ve climbed something new that’s not in the pages of this website then please let us know by adding details as a comment on this page so we can keep track of things and update the guides accordingly.

Cheers

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75 responses to “New Routes / Boulder Problems

  1. Fat Slapper Wall
    A short wall below The Blade area in Sea Gully with a collection of routes that finish at the same anchor. All bolted with titanium resin bolts and RE500 epoxy.

    1. Cast Adrift F6a+
    Steady climbing up the arête bordering the left side of the wall. Some holds around the arête but otherwise stay on the same side as the bolts.

    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 29/07/2017 5br, 9m

    2. Fat Slapper F6c+
    Technical wall climbing leads to a dynamic crux at the 4th bolt, which is passed directly with a slap for a jug on the edge of the slab above. Finish as for Flip Decision.

    FA: Francis Haden 06/08/2017 6br, 10m

    3. Flip Decision F5+
    Chimney your way past the massive boulder to gain better holds at the base of the slab, follow the edge of wall / slab to a technical finish before the anchor.

    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 29/07/2017 5br, 9m

    Sea Gully – Entrance Wall
    Right of A Fixed State of Affairs

    Sideshow F6a
    Follow the right side of the corner then stretch right across the wall at the 4th bolt. Mantle onto the ledge and climb easy ground to the anchor.

    FA: Francis Haden, Dahlia Wong, Mun Yee 06/08/2017 6br, 12m

  2. Kowloon Peak – Yellow Wall

    Glitter and Gold F7a***
    The left end of Yellow Wall is bordered by a striking arête and gold coloured streaked headwall. Start from a double bolt belay at the base of the arête. Step right, move up into a flared groove and improvise an exit to gain a pensive rest on the arête. Climb the superb (and exposed) arête with increasing difficulty to the roof, pull over and launch up the yellow streak to ‘strike gold’ at the yellow coloured jug in the middle of the headwall. Continue up the wall to a lower off.

    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 09/07/2017

  3. Lion Rock – West Face

    Following 2 new routes are located left of Suaraphobia.

    Cat Shit F7a 9br
    The rock encountered in the initial few metres is as soft as…so use bolts 1 and 2 for direct aid then go to work.
    FA: Francis Haden and Donna Kwok 19/02/2017

    Confined to the Cattery F7a+ 5br
    Finger shredding madness tackling the vertical crack / weakness on the far lefthand end of the wall. Start from a raised ledge. Step off the ledge using the only good holds on the route, push on, to a series of pockets and bouldery crux reach for better holds. Remaining climbing holds your focus until a lower off above.
    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/02/2017

  4. Hello,
    There’s a problem in the Tai Koo boulder guide that’s down as a project; problem number 2 on the stone wave boulder (traverses along the slopey shelf then straight up via more slopers). I know the guide book is pretty old now so I expect it’s been climbed, but if it hasn’t I’d like to record that I climbed it today. If it has been climbed I’d be interested to know the suggested grade.
    Look forward to your response.
    Mike P

  5. Central Crag Maintenance Project (Update)

    Dear friends, climbers, hikers and outdoor lovers I am back one more time to give you another update about Central Crag Maintenance Project. Over the past weekend we completed the SoHo Wall Maintenance Part:

    a) 9 anchors were added to SoHo Wall. Previously only 4 anchors were used to serve over 12 routes (trad or sport climbing) for the whole sector.

    b) 2 Existing trad routes were retro-bolted upon F.A. climber permission:
    – Old Bailey F5a (12bolts – 27m) F.A. Tom Chew, Ed Pramuk (June 2005)
    – Ming Dynasty F4c (12 bolts – 27m) FA Tom Chew, Ed Pramuk (August 2005)

    c) 2 New sport routes were added just on the right side of Blade Runner:
    – Electric Sheep F6a+ (12 bolts – 27m) F.A. Brian Smeets (February 2017)
    – Shunthunt F5a (12 bolts – 27m) F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (February 2017)

    d) Several belay stations and hand lines were added at the bottom of the SoHo Wall to facilitate belay and other sectors access.

    Furthermore find here (thanks to our many donors) some detail about the gears we have been using:

    BOLTS:
    AISI 316 Stainless Steel 6mm Rod Twisted Leg 80mm shaft length (Tested to EN959 by TÜV Sud).

    ANCHORS:
    AISI 316 Stainless Steel 10mm Maillon combined with AISI 316 Stainless Steel 10mm Ring; 2 set each anchor (Tested to EN959 by TÜV Sud).

    GLUE:
    Epoxy Adhesive Hilti HIT-RE500

    We will keep updating Central Crag sector by sector, renewing routes and increasing climber’s safety. Please keep supporting us, if you willing to make some donations do not hesitate to contact me here or via PM or email (alberto@rad.hk) and I will tell you more details.

    Hope you are in for this. Thank you,
    Alberto with Brian and Gianfranco Gf

    各位親愛的朋友,攀岩人仕,遠足人仕及户外活動愛好者,我現在再次報告有關Central Crag 維修保計劃的最新情況。在上星期的週末,我們已完成SoHo Wall 維修保養的部份:
    – 在SoHo Wall增加了9個 固定點,之前在此岩璧,是12條路線 (包括傳統及運動攀登) 共用4個 固定點。
    – 在得到首攀者同意下,有2條傳統攀登路線已更新固定錨拴。
    – Old Bailey F5a (12bolts – 27m) F.A. Tom Chew, Ed Pramuk (June 2005)
    – Ming Dynasty F4c (12 bolts – 27m) FA Tom Chew, Ed Pramuk (August 2005)
    – 剛剛在Blade Runner的右方,增加了2條新的運動攀登路線。
    – Electric Sheep F6a+ (12 bolts – 27m) F.A. Brian Smeets (February 2017)
    – Shunthunt F5a (12 bolts – 27m) F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (February 2017)
    – 為了保障確保者安全及便利通往其他地段的人仕,已經在SoHo Wall 下方位置增加了數個確保者定點崗位及扶手繩。

    還有,在此提供我們使用的 攀岩裝備資料(感謝各位捐贈者):

    固定錨拴:
    AISI 316 Stainless Steel 6mm Rod Twisted Leg, 80mm shaft length. Tested to EN959 by TÜV Sud.
    固定點:
    AISI 316 Stainless Steel 10mm Maillon combined with AISI 316 Stainless Steel 10mm Ring, 2 set each anchor. Tested to EN959 by TÜV Sud.
    膠水:
    Epoxy Adhesive Hilti HIT-RE500

    我們會繼續不斷提供Central Crag每一段的更新資料,包括新增的路線及增加攀岩人仕的安全。請繼續支持我們。如果你願意作出捐贈,請直接與我聯絡,傳送個人電話訊息或電郵 (alberto@rad.hk),我將會告知詳細資料。

    希望你可以共同參與及支持我們,在此再次致謝!
    Alberto with Brian and Gianfranco

  6. ‘Diesel Power’ at The Depot, Ap Lei Chau had its first ascent yesterday so is no longer a closed project. Would be great to get some repeats of these routes so we can get some grading consensus (the crag is dry at the moment!). Thanks to Francis Haden for developing/bolting and letting me have the FA of this route.

  7. Hi Martin,
    Alberto and I also rebolted a 7b route of yours at Eagle Crag: Eagle Paradise .
    At that time I was looking to get your permission to rebolted it and wrote you an email to the address that I had. We received no reply. Maybe the address was wrong or old.
    Could you please pm us with your new email address, just in case we need to ask your permission for other routes.
    Thanks
    Franco

    • Franco, I have no problem with you rebolting it. However, I didn’t claim the route as I never managed the last move. It would be better to ask Rocky for his permission. For any other of my routes that you consider need new bolts just get a consensus from the active climbers and do it. Martin

  8. Lion Rock – West Face

    Cat and Mouse F6c 9 Bolts
    Starts from the Belay at the end of Fickle Feline / Cat on a Hot Tin Roof.
    Climb the hard short wall left of the belay, to an obvious groove above which is followed to join Gweilo before the mantle onto the terrace.
    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 08/01/2017

    Note that this may possibly have been climbed in some way previously due to the presence of 2 very old bolts. No previous first ascent details are known (having asked around) or on record.

    • Hi Francis,
      I’m pretty sure those old bolts were mine. Placed in the early 90s, a time before sport bolting was considered acceptable by inhibited Brits. I can’t recall why I didn’t do a write up. Was it the unbalanced nature of the climbing, hard pulls off the ledge then easier above, or the possibility of falling onto the ledge? Either way I’m sure you will have made a much better job of the bolting and deserve to claim it.
      Congratulations on your impressive tally of new routes and thank you for all that hard work.
      Martin Lancaster

      • Hey Martin,

        Great to hear from you and thanks for your reply.

        Can you pm me via my wordpress blog?

        Search for francis haden wordpress and send me a message.

        Cheers,

        Francis

        • Francis I am currently staying just south of Bristol. Which continent are you on? M

          • Hi Martin,
            Have been trying to track you down. Trust all is well. Could you send me your current email address.
            Come to the Blueys or Araps mon brave, Andy

  9. Lion Rock – West Face

    Cat on a Hot Tin Roof F7b ** 20m 14br
    The direct on Fickle Feline, tackling the obvious blunt roof and technical groove above.

    Follow FF (start re-bolted so no longer run out) to the rest where FF moves right. Boulder the hard wall above to an all out dyno to latch crucial holds on the lip of the roof. Crank over then reposition and stretch for better holds that lead into the technical groove. Final exit moves lead to easier ground and the shared anchor of Fickle Feline.

    FA: Francis Haden 27/11/2016

  10. New route on lower Nicholson wall:
    Weasels Rip My Flesh. 6c-ish
    FA: Brian Boyd, Ian Smith, Birgitta Bjornsson, and Jack Marr.

    Start in the lower gully at a blunt arête. Technical moves up the arête lead to easier climbing. At the ledge, continue up the thin crack. Shares anchors with HESH. The lower arête can be used as an alternate start for HESH.
    Two ginormous dirt clods blocked the final moves. There was an epic battle between Jack and the dirt clods, in a rare instance of ice axe use in HK. There are some very shallow fingerlocks on the upper portion which gave the route its name.

  11. Monkey Buttress

    Monkey Magic F7b
    Climb Guerrilla Warfare to the jug at half height then power out left along a horizontal break to begin a bouldery sequence of moves up the hanging arete above.

    FA: Francis Haden 09/04/2016

  12. Monkey Buttress

    The project right of Cheeky Monkey was sent today.

    PG Tips F7b
    FA: Francis Haden 29/03/0216
    Climb the wall right of the corner (Cheeky Monkey) until a hand traverse left joins Cheeky Monkey at the ledge just below the top.

    The temporary expansion bolts will be replaced with resin bolts in the near future.

  13. NEW ROUTES AT EAGLE CRAG

    Dear friends, please find here a quick guide to illustrate our recent development at Eagle Crag in Lantau Island.
    Several routes has been added to the existing crag, please help us to spread the news to everybody.

    Few of the existing routes may need to be re-bolted with resin bolts more suitable for the sea environment. If you are interested in some contribution to that job please let us or Francis know.

    Please be also aware that route 1 still need a little bit of cleaning and maintenance, give us a couple of weeks more before climbing (few loose rocks to take care of)

    Enjoy the crag and let us know your comments or impressions,
    Alberto and Gf Gianfranco

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/2qcapdj46ihqsc5/150316%20EAGLE%20%20CRAG%20%20GUIDE.pdf?dl=0

  14. NEW (Shorter) APPROACH TRAIL at MONKEY BUTTRESS
    We opened a shorter trail to reach the bottom of the crag without going all the way up and down again.
    As soon as you start walking uphill from the sandy river bed, when the trail start turning left, watch for a concrete slab in the middle of the trail. At this point look at your RIGHT . You will see an opening in the bush and a fixed rope. Follow this trail to the crag.

  15. Sea Gully, Tung Lung

    Green Corner F5+
    The obvious corner line right of Green Slab. 6 Bolts protect.
    Eterna titanium resin bolts and anchor sets with Hilti RE 500 epoxy resin.
    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Neil Gilson, William Henderson

  16. Two new problems at Devil’s Peak:

    Sympathy for the Devil: 6a/5.10b. Start as for Special Forces. Make a boulder move up and left to the ledge. Continue up thin face above. After the sixth bolt, move either left or right to finish on the bolt lines of the adjacent routes.
    FA: Brian Boyd, Ian Smith, Charley Kelly, Nov 2014.

    Slabasaurus Rex. 6b/10d. Start just left of Battle of the Bulge, at a thin seam above WWII drill holes/rebar. Four bolts lead to the large hole. Finish on Over the Top or Battle.
    FA: Brian Boyd, Ian Smith, Charley Kelly, Nov 2014.

    • Two more lines:

      Old Man’s War F5/5.9: Start at the far left side of the main wall, below the broken inside corner. Diagonal left up the slab, cross the arête, and finish on the left face. Five bolts. Note: Anchors need rap rings! Will add next time we are up there.
      FA: Brian Boyd, Jack Marr.

      Roland the Headless Hilti Gunner 6a+/10c. Start as for Hell and Back (the one-bolt alternate start to Not the Slightest Chance). Continue up the seam, passing the small overlap on the right side.
      FA: Brian Boyd, Ian Smith, Jack Marr

  17. BROKEN HOLD AT BLACK’s LINK:
    Route: Linked-In Blacked Out
    Someone broke a foot hold at the start of the climb. One small notch for left foot was trimmed away . So it makes it (in my opinion) now impossible or extremely hard to move and lift the right foot in order to reach the hole/undercling for your right hand. Please post here if someone can still climb this route.

  18. Cape Collinson – The Zawn
    Tide Walk F5+
    The direct start to Sea of Tranquility
    FA: francis Haden, Donna Kwok

  19. Lion Rock – East Face
    In the Shadow of The East F7a
    A fantastic long pitch that starts from the end of Morning Light. Take a full rack of quick draws (18) and a long sling for the bolt on the ledge where the route joins Tigger. Climb directly above the belay and make technical moves left to gain good holds. Move up then step left to where the wall steepens and engage turbo with hard moves to gain the sanctuary of the ledge above. Shuffle awkwardly left to join Tigger (long sling) and finish at the higher belay (not the Austrian Staircase belay).

    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok
    28/09/2014

  20. Lion Rock – East Face
    The Lions Share F6b
    The line of resin bolts leading off the lefthand end of the terrace below the east face. Step off the terrace and balance up a tricky grove to join the main groove / flake line which is followed rightwards to the ledge in the centre of the wall. Gently climb up onto the large flake and tackle some bouldery moves above before easing ground gains the belay on the large ledge for the Arete etc.
    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok
    21/09/2014

  21. Cape Collinson – The Zawn

    Voices F7a 11Br
    Similar in length to ‘Ride the Wild Surf’ although a much harder crux sequence. Start right of RTWS below an obvious vertical weakness in the wall. Climb easily past 4 bolts to the ledge and the opportunity to size up the blank slab above. Step left off the ledge, move up past a bolt then drift up and right to gain holds on the arete. From here technical moves on small holds lead back across the slab with increasing difficulty until it is possible to step up onto a small foot ledge. Easier climbing leads to a double bolt anchor.
    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok

    This is the first route in Hong Kong to be entirely equipped with titanium resin bolts. Will be interesting to see how the existing SS316 Fixe bolts last compared to the gear on this new line.

  22. Cape Collinson – The Zawn

    The obvious large block below the final corner of Sun, Love and Steel was removed today and a couple of titanium bolts added to make the final crux corner better protected.

    A new route has been bolted on the main slab – please do not climb this (its wet anyway) until the finger tape has been removed.

    Cheers,

    Francis

  23. Black Crag

    Tycoon Talk F6a *** 13Br 23m
    Great climbing on high quality rock. Start down to the left of My Cat’s Blacker Than Yours. Climb a short crack to the first bolt and step left onto a small ledge. Climb directly up the rib above and into a rest below the distinct, slanted roof. Force the groove beneath the roof to pull over onto the slab above. Technical moves lead up the wall and to easier ground. Shared anchor with My Cat’s Blacker Than Yours.
    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, GF Biga, Alberto Cipriani
    02/08/2014

  24. Fung has been climbed two new boulder problem in Tsuen Wan, located in Summit and Tip off boulder.

    Self Explosion v7 at Summit boulder
    Avalokitesvara v7 at Tip off boulder

  25. Lion Rock West Face

    Feline Free F6a
    A nicely positioned pitch by itself, this provides a bolt protected link between Gweilo / Ward’s Groove and the start of Feline Phrenology thereby providing a sport climbing alternative to the trad link of Ward’s Groove.

    Start at the belay of Ward’s Groove pitch 2. Follow a short diagonal ramp left wards above the belay to position yourself on the exposed arête. Climb directly up the arête (crux) to easier ground and a short ramp below the belay of Feline Phrenology.
    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok

  26. Lion Rock – East Face

    Morning Light F7a+
    Start as for Tigger and follow that to the second bolt, stepping right onto the ramp. A short way up the ramp (of Stray Cat Strut), step back onto the wall and follow the line of resin bolts that runs parallel to Tigger.
    Francis Haden 11br 23/03/2014

  27. Loose Rock in Mt. Nicholson
    Climbed the “First Way In” in Shoot Gully on Wed. Pulled down two big pieces of rock down (about the size of a pillow) during our climb and luckily it didn’t hit anyone of us. Recommend climbers to take extreme cautious when climb the same line. Helmet is a must.
    Norman

  28. Lion Rock – West Face

    Feisty Feline F7b/7b+
    Powerful and sustained climbing up the steepest part of the Scardy Cat headwall. The belay can be reached by abseiling down the West face descent route and swinging across or from the end of the fourth pitch on Gweilo. Shortly above the belay, a powerful extended move gains the prominent undercut by the third bolt. Lock off, clip the fourth bolt above then power out right to gain another crucial undercut. A final power move back left gains a large but hidden jug in the scoop above and a welcome but cramped rest. Break out left from the scoop and sprint up the bulging wall above to a final pull onto a ledge and bolt belay.

    FA: F. Haden 26/01/2014
    9 Bolts, 20m

  29. Pet Teacher F7a
    Start right of Evolution by a narrow concrete ledge. Climb the wall above, following a rightward trending line of pockets and crimps that lead onto the arete of Teachers Pet. Finish as for Teachers Pet.

    F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (01/01/2014)

  30. The open project route at mid level crag just right of ‘single malt’ was climbed today.
    Named ‘Hong Kong Style’. May soft 8b except someone has other opinion.

  31. Hi.
    It is about the 4th bolt (at the middle of the slab) of Shagadelic (F4) – Austin powers crag. Yesterday, a climber found the locking nut of the bolt is missing while leading. As the hanger could came off anytime, so it was removed from the wall.
    Cheers
    Joel

  32. Mount Nicholson – a new climbing area on Hong Kong Island.

    Cliff development and first ascents were completed last weekend on Mount Nicholson and with the guide finished, it’s time to go public 😉

    This has taken 9 months to conclude (what happened to the weather this year?) but now everyone has 30 more sport routes on Hong Kong Island to choose from that are mainly between F6a and F6c. Couple of multi pitch routes and some very good traditionally protected climbing too. Thanks to Tom Chew, Richard Cuncliffe, Franco Bigazzi and Geordie Yip for those lines.

    There is an open project, with two hard boulder cruxes, that I reckon is about F7c. Up for grabs so go to it! If anyone sends it then a donation for the bolts would be great but not expected.

    This has been a 9 month slog so enjoy!

    Cheers,

    Francis

  33. The open project route at bird nest crag just left of ‘brainstorm’ was climbed yesterday.
    Named ‘Unbeatable’, idea from a hot film in hongkong now.

  34. Anyone been out to Cape collinson and have found a brown arteryx t-shirt. and harness bag. if you want to return it to me. Please call or leave a msg 00853 66887544. Geordie

  35. 50 BEST ROUTES IN HK – PROJECT

    Hi I have in mind to build a list of the best 50 routes in HK .
    In order to do so I need help from all HK climbers , Chinese and foreign ones, past and present, young and old, good climbers or just beginners.

    I need your help to spread this idea to all climbers you know, so we can get feedbacks and build the list.
    We need to get YOUR contribution to this project, making your chioice whithin all the routes described in hongkongclimbing.com that you have climbed in these years.
    For each crag, in Hongkongclimbing website, please list at least five (5) routes you think are really worth to be within the best 50 of Hong Kong.
    we will collect all your comments and present to you the possible shortlisted routes that you consider the finalists. Frome these we will choose 50.
    Please send both a) names and b) crag of your preferred routes to this e-mail address: 50bestroutesofhk@gmail.com

    Thank you !!!!!
    GF

  36. Does anyone have an update on routes at Temple Crag, S. Lantau? A partner and I were on Jaqattack yesterday, and discovered a route just to the left which is not in the guidebook. Would like to find out what the difficulty level is.

  37. Central on Central F4
    FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 01/06/2013
    9 Br

    Line of resin bolts up the wall and slab, left of Yeah Baby. Finish at the Yeah Baby anchor.

  38. One new boulder problem climbed today at Chung Hom Kok on the Breach of Peace Slab:

    V2 * “For V”
    Climb straight up the slab a few feet to the right of the left arete of the Breach of Peace Slab.

    • Hi Adrian, I know you posted this a couple of years ago so you may not see this. But, if I head to Chung Hom Kok, how do I get to at least one of the bouldering areas? Is it next to the beach? It seems like quite a big area and I can’t find any specific directions.

  39. One hard route (right of lizard family) just climbed on last sunday at beacon hill. Properly 8b as I feel, may seek some other to confirm.
    The name is ‘Mission is Possible’, btw, updated guide book on there is under prepare, hope will complete soon. Rocky

    • Nice one Rocky

      Look forward to seeing the new guide so i can update the relevant section of the website to include details of this route

      Stu

  40. Another 3 new boulder problems at Chung Hom Kok climbed on 24th Dec above the Wave.
    1) In the wall above the left hand edge of the slab of Breach of Peace there’s a shallow left leaning groove. Make a hard move into the groove to reach a very sloping top. Take care not to fall and slip down the hole! V4 and 1 *

    The other 2 problems are on the black slab at the top and back above the Wave:
    1) Start in the middle of the slab and climb up, moving slightly to the left. Not difficult but quite bold. VB *
    2) Climb the right hand arete of the slab. Exposed. V1 *

  41. NEW ROUTES AT BIRD NEST ( CENTRAL)
    Finally we finished (almost) all projects there.
    From the very end on the right side , on the rocky platform , the new 7a project : ROBOCOP
    A 4 bolt short but spicy route. A lot of holds have been reinforced with epoxy resin. Hence the name of the route , half natural, half artificial.
    There are 5 or 6 weird moves on the first bolt before reaching a clipping position for the second bolt. Follow the bolts an use the arete on the right . A possible harder line if you avoid the arete completely.
    F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi -Dec. 2012

    Next route on the left of Robocop is : “TROUSERS OFF” a 6b route with an interesting hard start. Delicate second bolt clipping. Belayer needs to watch carefully.
    F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi – Oct. 2012

    Next to it , on the left, an original trad route , completely cleaned from dangerous and loose rocks (there might be some more to be epoxy resin fixed) originally named : Gaullywogol Live – F.A. Dan Hanna .
    Now bolted with permission.
    Proposed name: TRANSFORMER

  42. 3 new boulder problems on the wedge shaped wall to the right of the Jumper Area in Chung Hom Kok over the last month or so. The diagonal crack on the far right of the wall (V1), a problem just to its left up the highest part of the wall (V3), and a problem just left of the centre of the wall (V2).

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