Kai Kung Leng

General

Jack Lin on Find the Right Pockets on the Valley Boulder. Photo: Jack Lin Collection

As the name suggests, these boulders are located on the hillsides of Kai Kung Leng in the northern New Territories. Currently only a fraction of the boulders present on the hillside have been explored and climbed so potential for new development still abounds. Go get at it…

Access

The easiest access to the boulders is to take the MTR West Rail to either Kam Sheung Road or Yuen Long Station and then get a taxi / van to drop you near Po Kwong Monastery on Fung Kat Heung Road (Lat: 22.456163, Long: 114.067298).

Various trails lead up the hillside in the vicinity of the monastery, the majority of which will get you close to your desired set of boulders.

Routes

Three main bouldering areas have currently been explored / developed, as shown on the map below:

Lower Boulders

Valley Boulder

1 – Lean on Me Now – V3 *
Left of the boulder, climb up along right arete

2 – Find The Right Pockets – V2 ***
Follow a series of pockets, climb up the middle of the face

The Great Overhang

1 – Hong’s Project (sds) – Unsent
Sit down start at pockets in middle of the overhang and climb up towards right

2 – One Punch Man – V7 *
Start with two slippery holds in the groove right of the overhang, dyno up to the jug at lip

Banana Rock

1 – Good Old Time – V1 **
Climb up the right face of the rock

Goat Rock

1 – Focus – V5 ***
Start left on good pockets, traverse right then top out the big boulder.

Sunshade Boulder

Pokemon Rock

1 – Pokemon Go – V3 ***
Start at lower big pocket and top out left. Pocket lovers will like it!

2 – Pocket Monster Go (sds) – V4 ***
The sit start to Pokemon Go

Raymond Tang cranking hard on Pokemon Go (V3) at the Sunshade Boulders. Photo: Jack Lin Collection

Warm Up Block

This block currently has a few V0’s and V1’s. Topo to follow later on

Crispy Rock

1 – Crispy Project – Unsent
Tricky moves on crispy holds up the face

The Whale

1 – Crack Project – Unsent

2 – Tsao’s Project – Unsent

3 – Unnamed – V5
Climb up the right side of the Whale

Olympus Boulders

Hermes Rock

1 – Stealthy Grip – V1

Titan Rock

Gaia Rock

1 – Unnamed – V1 ***
Climb up the middle face of the Gaia rock

Zeus Rock

1 – Olymp – V4
Start inside the mini-cave, dyno to a decent hold on vertical face. Finish up to the top left of the rock

2 – Thunder Crack – V1 ***
Climb the right side of crack

Jack Lin on Thunder Crack (V1) on Zeus Rock. Photo: Jack Lin Collection