Ma Tai Stream

Yuji_MaDaiHeroCrag


Climbing legend Yuji Hirayama sampling some Ma Tai delights. Photo: Karen Chan

General

A small and developing crag (plus a bunch of riverside boulders) in a stunning and relaxing setting far from the city crowds. Massive thanks to Hong Kong’s original power climbing couple Rocky Lok and Angel Liu for all their hard work here (and elsewhere).

Access

Either take the MTR to Tai Shui Hang Station (Exit A to Chevalier Garden) on the Ma On Shan Line or take a bus to Chevalier Garden Bus Terminus (Numbers 803, 85X  or 89D).

Just north of Chevalier Garden (about 150 m), an obvious single-track road breaks right and follows the drainage channel into the hillside area. Follow this track to the location of a dam at its end (just under 1 km). From here, a staircase on the left leads up the hillside a short way. At the top of the staircase, break right and follow a dirt trail to reach the stream course itself. The main wall of Ma Tai Crag should now be apparent. Rock hop your way up the stream course, sticking mostly to the boulders and jungle trails on its left hand side, until it is possible to break right level with the base of the crag. The total approach time is about 30 minutes from the MTR station

MaTaiStream AccessMaTaiStream Access Local

Climbing Areas

Many thanks to Jack Lin for the photos and topo information.

Sport Routes

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Main Crag: Climbs are described left to right, starting on the Main Face of the crag:

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1 – Fight F7c

2 – Wolf in the Middle Age F6c+

3 – Final Distant F8a

4 – All the Way West F7c

5 – Dancing with the River F7b+

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Climbing legend Yuji Hirayama is Dancing with the River. Photo: Karen Chan

6 – Italian Boot F6b

7 – Pink Lady F6b

8 – The Player F6c

9 – Candy Brother F7a

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10 – Wonder Woman F6c

11 – Hidden Evil F8a+

12 – Dr Lion F7b

13 – Route #14 F6c+

Bouldering

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1 – Amazing Movement V6

2 – Project

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3 – Channel V4

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4 – Kung Fu (Direct) V6
Start from both hands in the undercling and go directly up, without using the arete to the right.

5- Kung Fu V5
Start at the undercling and then climb the wall above using both crimps on the face as well as the arete to the right.

6 – Piano V2

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Raymond Yeap on Piano. Photo: Rocky Lok

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7 – Sloppy Road V5
Climb the slopey arete/ledge from right to left

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8 – Spice Boy V4

9 – X-Men V6

10 – Round the World V5

11 – Bear Hug V4

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Rocky Lok on Bear Hug. Photo: Rocky Lok Collection

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12 – King Ghost V3

13 – Beginner Arete V0

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14 – Angel’s Angle V6

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Adon on Angel’s Angle. Photo: Rocky Lok

15 – Angle Direct V2

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16 – Killer Fish V5

17 – Killer Fish (sds) Project?

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18 – Fear Wall V3
Start on the obvious jug below the roof before moving left and climbing the face to bypass this

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19 – Soloman Traverse V4

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20 – Super Bowl V7

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21 – Busy Corner V1

22 – Project