Hero Crag

General

A small and developing crag (plus a bunch of riverside boulders) in a stunning and relaxing setting far from the city crowds. Massive thanks to Hong Kong’s original power climbing couple Rocky Lok and Angel Liu for all their hard work here (and elsewhere).  A draft PDF for the Ma Tai Stream area can be downloaded here.

Access

Either take the MTR to Tai Shui Hang Station (Exit B to Chevalier Garden) on the Ma On Shan Line or take a bus to Chevalier Garden Bus Terminus (Numbers 803, 85X  or 89D).

Just north of Chevalier Garden (about 150 m), an obvious single-track road breaks right and follows the drainage channel into the hillside area. Follow this track to the location of a dam at its end (just under 1 km). From here, a staircase on the left leads up the hillside a short way. At the top of the staircase, break right around the edge of the dam area until a small dirt trail leads down to the stream itself. The main wall of Ma Tai Crag should now be apparent. Rock hop your way up the stream course, sticking mostly to the boulders and jungle trails on its left hand side, until it is possible to break right level with the base of the crag. The total approach time is about 30 minutes from the MTR station.

Routes

Main Wall

Climbs are described left to right, starting on the Main Face of the crag:

(1) Fight * F7c
Desperate looking line up the left side of the main face. Start from the belay ledge by the rock pool.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2018)

(2) Wolf in the Middle Age *** F6c
A classic of the crag starting from the small belay platform next to the rock pool. Step across the stream and make tricky moves to get established on the slab. Follow this with ease up and left to reach the obvious block (bolted in place so nice and secure). Mount this and make tricky moves up and across the wall above to reach the crack / layback out left, which is followed to the ledge. Burly moves through the roof on good holds bring the anchors.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2017)

(3) Final Distant * F8b
An even more desperate line up the narrow face bounded by vertical cracks.
F.A Rocky Lok (2018)

(4) All the Way West *** F7c
A stunning line. Start at the stream crossing as for the previous lines and pad your way up the lower slab to the steep wall above. Climb the lower left section of the main face via a series of desperate moves, before following the obvious rightwards trending crack lines cutting across the main face of the crag. An awesome climb from top to bottom.
F.A Rocky Lok (2017)

(5) Dancing with the River *** F7b+
A stunning line that weaves its way from the lower slabs to the uppermost walls. Start just to the right of the stream and climb the broken flake line up the lower slab to reach the roof. Move left across the roof to gain small crimps on the slab above, using these to delicately ease your way n to the slab itself. Pad your way leftwards across the slab to reach the main face, which is then followed up its right side to the top of the crag. 
F.A. Rocky Lok (2016)

(6) Italian Boot ** F6b+
Climb the thin and technical groove to reach some ‘thank god’ jugs at the lip of the small capping block. From here continue trending up and right to reach the anchor. It is also possible (better?) to finish up Luck Road.
F.A. Peter Chan (2017)

(7) Pink Lady * F6b
To the right of the groove is a smooth wall with a woeful lack of small crimps and flakes. Use these to ascend to the ledge on Italian Boot, which is the followed to the top. Again, a better alternative is to continue more directly up Luck Road.
F.A. Angel Liu (2017)

(8) Lucky Road ** F6a+
Start on the right side of the lower wall and climb through this, trending left towards the upper parts of Routes 6 & 7. From the ledge where you cross these, continue up a vegetated section of wall to reach the awesome spine of quartz leading up the top slab. Make tricky moves to get established on this before following it with increasing ease to reach the lower off above.
F.A. Angel Liu (2019)

(9) The Player * F6c
Climb the centre of the lower wall via interesting moves on small holds
F.A. Adon Law (2017)

(10) Candy Brother * F7a
The righthand side of the wall has a tricky start that leads to an insecure and sloping finish.
F.A. K.L. Wong (2017)

Lower Wall

(1) Lost Jungle F7a
Start at the arête as for Wonder Woman and make a rising leftwards traverse after a few metres. Continue all the way across the wall to ascend the lefthand side before trending back right on tiny holds near the top.
F.A. Angel Liu (2018)

(2) Wonder Boy F6c+
Start at the arête as for Wonder Woman and make a short rising leftwards traverse after a few metres to reach an open groove line. Follow this till it peters out and then move left on tiny holds to reach the lower off.
F.A. Angel Liu (2018)

(3) Wonder Woman *** F6c
A fantastic line up the left side of the arête, with a tricky (e.g. reachy) start.
F.A. Angel Liu (2017)

(4) Hidden Evil *** F8a+
A stunning and difficult line up the left side of the wall with powerful bouldery cruxes on razor sharp crimps.
F.A. K.C. Yau (2018)

(5)  Closed Project

(6) Dr Lion * F7b
Start on the right side of the wall and make bouldery moves up this, using the arete, to reach the anchors.
F.A. Angel Liu (2017)

(7) Magic Palm F7b
Climb the far right side of the wall to an insecure and sloping crux that will be easier for the tall.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2018)

Warning:

Almost every time i’ve visited this crag in spring / summer i’ve found a tick either on me or my clothes at some point during the day. These little critters can have some quite nasty health impacts if not dealt with properly. If you find one on yourself, don’t panic and simply follow the removal guidance linked below to take it off:

https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/removing_a_tick.html

Route Feedback

Coming Soon
Fight
Fight
Fight
Coming Soon
Wolf in the Middle Age
Wolf in the Middle Age
Wolf in the Middle Age
Coming Soon
Final Distant
Final Distant
Final Distant
Coming Soon
All The Way West
All The Way West
All The Way West
Coming Soon
Dancing with the River
Dancing with the River
Dancing with the River
Coming Soon
Italian Boot
Italian Boot
Italian Boot
Coming Soon
Pink Lady
Pink Lady
Pink Lady
Coming Soon
Lucky Road
Lucky Road
Lucky Road
Coming Soon
The Player
The Player
The Player
Coming Soon
Candy Brother
Candy Brother
Candy Brother
Coming Soon
Lost Jungle
Lost Jungle
Lost Jungle
Coming Soon
Wonder Boy
Wonder Boy
Wonder Boy
Coming Soon
Wonder Woman
Wonder Woman
Wonder Woman
Coming Soon
Hidden Evil
Hidden Evil
Hidden Evil
Coming Soon
Dr Lion
Dr Lion
Dr Lion
Coming Soon
Magic Palm
Magic Palm
Magic Palm

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MYK

Was climbing Italian Boot (6b+) and broke a pretty good hold off to the right after the third bolt. Not sure if I was off route at the time and instead on Pink Lady (6b). Continued up to the jugs on the lip on the much smaller crimps above the broken-off hold.