Big Wall

General

Tung Lung’s Big Wall is a multi pitch sport climbs in a stunning situation, especially when a big swell is running.

Stuart Millis answering the Call of the Wild (F7a+). Photo: Ron Yue

Details can be found in the Tung Lung PDF here

A few words of warning:

  • The bolts on this wall are now mostly about 20-years old and may be of questionable quality. It’d be worth pre-inspecting their condition before fully committing to any of the routes described herein.
  • This wall contains many loose blocks, although most routes (particularly those in the higher grades) are on relatively solid rock. It should therefore only be approached by a competent party with notable experience climbing multi-pitch routes of at least F6b level.
  • If there are any signs of other parties already on the wall extreme caution should be taken when abseiling in. Please do not attempt to clean the blocks off this wall, there’s too many, it’s too dangerous, and it could seriously alter the character of many of the routes as falling blocks smash into them.
  • This is adventure sport climbing so don’t expect to hang dog your way up things. Many routes have bolts commonly 2m or apart and require obligatory climbing of the crux. The grades are also quite old skool and stiff. Basically, if you’re not comfortable climbing at least F6c, do not attempt to climb here.
  • Please also note that, other than jumaring up a fixed line or swimming around into Sea Gully (neither of which are particularly desirable), the routes described are the only means of escape once you’ve abseiled in. If you have any doubts of your ability to safely climb the routes please do not attempt to climb on the wall.

TungLungCrags

Routes

Routes 1-2 are approached by a short abseil from the first abseil station to the left of the main approach path (looking out to sea), which is accessed via a short bush whack over the small ridge from a cluster of boulders and a careful descent to the rocks (cairn placed on top for reference).

Routes 3-11 are approached by a 55m abseil from a hanging belay station, accessed by a 5 m traverse along the cliff edge from the abseil station for Routes 1 and 2. A fixed line should be left in place to safeguard your exit at the end of day. The abseil places you on a large sloping platform about 5.0m above sea level.

Please do not place a fixed permanent handline across this access as any subsequent failure  would result in the death of the people using it. Parties accessing the wall should fix their own temporary access line.

Routes 12-14 are approached by a 55m abseil from a precarious looking block on the left side of the wall (looking out to sea) to a small flat platform just above sea level. This block is accessed via a scramble down the boulders directly above Central Slab. Several sets of higher anchors have been installed to protect this approach and it is suggested to keep these as back up for the main abseil and to facilitate safe exit at the end of the day.
It is possible to abseil directly to a hanging stance (about 5.0m above sea level) to the left of this platform to start route 12. This has the advantage of avoiding rope drag on the first pitch.

All abseil stations were equipped with glue in stainless steel bolts in April 2020 (Note: None of the routes are equally well equipped yet though…)

An abseil anchor has also been placed in the boulders right of the main stations (looking out to sea) to access the southern part of the Big Wall area. Rock in this area is very loose however so exploration has been quite limited to date (although Danny Ng and Lau Koon Hing explored the area and established some lines in the mid-1990’s).

1) Round About Midnight – F7a+
Climb the arete and face, with a hard start to the thin face climb.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

2) Bitter Dose – F6a
The easy way back to the top of the wall from the left hand abseil. Climb the easy groove on surprisingly good rock.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

3) Sea Weed Slab ** F6a
High and low tide starts to this climb are available depending on the condition of the sea. To get the full grade use the lower start and climb the wall at the left hand end of the large ledge.
F.A. Danny Ng (1994)

4) Sea Weed Arete – F6b+
Climb the overhanging wall and arete at the left edge of the large sloping ledge.
F.A. Terry Ng (1994)

5) Don’t Cry Babe * F6b
Climb the short overhanging crack on the wall at the back of the large lower ledge.
F.A. Danny Ng (1994)
Rebolted with glue-ins (May 2020)

6) New Dawn * F6c
To the right of Don’t Cry Babe is a short overhanging corner crack. Climb this.
F.A. Stuart Millis, Lau Koon Hing, Christoph Bode & Ron Roy (2020)

7) Mac the Knife ** F6b
A delightful pitch up the prominent arete above Don’t Cry Babe. Either climb this pitch to start or abseil to belay bolts just below the base of the arete.  Start up the face left of the arete until tricky moves through a small overlap lead back right to the arete proper. Follow this to a belay on a small ledge at its top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1994)
Rebolted with glue-ins (May 2020)

8) Stoned Cold Sober ** F6c
Another superb pitch, this time up the soaring corner line right of the arete.  A slightly overhanging start leads to superb bridging up the corner above.
F.A. Stuart Sharpless (1997) – originally climbed trad but bolted by the FA later on
Rebolted with glue-ins (May 2020)

9) Destination Moon * F6c
Start at the lower belay station on the right side of the slab. Climb up and right of the corner of Stoned Cold Sober to reach a small roof and open corner system. Breach the roof before following the corner to reach a diagonal crack splitting the upper wall. Confidently attack this before making a hard move right to exit the crack at the upper terrace. Easier climbing leads up and right to the belay.
F.A. Danny Ng (1997)
Rebolted with glue-ins (May 2020)

10) Its Not Unusual – F6c
Start at belay bolts lower on the wall facing into the cave. Climb the wall above past some loose blocks to reach a slab. From the slab step left towards some undercuts and join Destination Moon near its end. Finish as for this.
F.A. Danny Ng (1997)
Rebolted with glue-ins (May 2020)

11) Strangers in the Night * F7b+
Start on the steep slab on the left hand side of the cave. Climb a short way up the corner, directly above the left side of the cave, before making a short rightwards traverse beneath a small roof. Climb through the roof and continue directly up the wall, passing through two more small roofs until reaching a short steep headwall. Move left on sloping holds onto the headwall before making hard moves to the top of the crag (crux).
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

12) Vaspering ** F7b
Pitch 1 (F6c): Follow Strangers in the Night to where it moves through the first overlap. From here continue traversing right, beneath the roofs, to a hanging belay directly above the roof of the cave.
Pitch 2 (F7b): Climb up a slightly right to good side pulls on the right side of an overhang. Make hard moves up and left through the roof (crux) before continuing up the thin crack above. When the crack thins out, make delicate moves rightwards to another thin crack. Belay on the small ledge.
Pitch 3: Follow a rambling line up the vegetated chossy wall above.
F.A. Andy Vasper (1993)

13) Call of the Wild *** F7a+
Undoubtedly the best line on the crag which, when combined with the final pitches of Vaspering, gives a superb and sustained outing.
Pitch 1: Start from the platform on the right hand side of the crag or a hanging belay just up and left of this which helps avoid rope drag. From the hanging belay, step left onto the slab and traverse diagonally left towards a small hanging slab. Pull onto this and climb up to the roof above. Traverse left above the lip of the cave and make hard moves into the obvious corner system. Follow this to its top and swing left to a hanging stance on the slab. Finish as for Route 11.
F.A. Danny Ng (1997)

14) That Old Feeling ** F7a
Pitch 1 (F7a): Start from the platform on the right hand side of the crag. Make a short horizontal traverse left until a thin crackline leads directly up the wall. Climb this until just above a series of roofs, to the left. Head left, just above the roofs and not moving too high onto the loose blocky wall above. Move onto a hanging pillar and climb this to a belay stance at its crest.
Pitch 2 (F6b): Follow a rambling, leftwards trending line up the blocky wall above.
F.A. Danny Ng (1997)

15) I Look Good ** F7b
Start as for That Old Feeling but instead of following the thin arete crack carry on left and up through the roof on good jugs to a belay in the groove above.
F.A. Danny Ng (1998)

16) – Silent Treatment – F6a
Pitch 1 (F6a): From the right side of the platform climb up the wall towards a slightly vegetated corner. Follow this and belay on top of the block.
Pitch 2 (F6a): Climb directly up the wall above, being cautious of loose blocks.
F.A. Danny Ng (1999)

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