Kite Rock

General

Tung Lung’s Kite Wall is five short sport climbs on the large boulder of extremely coarse volcanic rock located on a small knoll just above the main concrete path from the western ferry pier (not the one mostly used these days) to the Noodle Shop.

TungLungCrags

Note: The bolts are getting a bit old on this wall so you may be best advise to treat the routes as either [very] highball boulder problems and pad them out, or just set up anchors and top rope them…

Routes

1 – One Flight Down – F6a+
Follow the shallow groove up the left hand end of the wall past a large pocket. A variation, On Line (F6a) follows the diagonal crack at two thirds height rightwards to the top of the boulder.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

2 – Kestrel – F7a**
A short sharp route directly up the centre of the wall. A tricky start with few foot holds leads to technical climbing up the wall on small sharp pockets.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

3 – Thundering Typhoon – F6c*
The striking arete, climbed on its left side, gives a fierce technical outing. Somewhat of an eliminate, CBL Graffiti Maniac (F6b+), starts directly above the graffiti and follows a line of pockets to the diagonal crack.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

4 – Sans Serif – F5
Haul your way up the steep wall using an assortment of sharp flakes and pockets to an easier finish above. Basically, anything goes.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

5 – Its All Right – F6c
Start at the right end of the steep portion of the wall and follow large holds along the vague lip. Continue around the arete to finish on the diagonal crack round the cornere. Two ropes are advised to avoid excessive rope drag on the arete.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

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One response to “Kite Rock

  1. As of 2019 the bolts are getting quite old on this rock and there are no anchors at the top. Cleaning is a bit of a mess. It is hard to build an anchor beyond the lip as the rock is quite abrasive for the rope. Routes are nice and usually still climbable after a drizzle though.

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