Sea Gully (Lower Walls)

Under the Terrace

The following routes are all reached from the gully floor:

1) Big Cat Diary * F7a+ 
Start directly beneath the left edge of a rubble strewn ledge at mid-crag height and climb up towards this and an obvious horizontal break. Move left along the break until it is possible to launch up and back right through the headwall above.
F.A. Rocky Lok (1997)

2) The Blade *** F7a
A superb arete climb with gradually increasing difficulties all the way to the top. Start near to foot of the gully, beneath the start of Crossroads. Climb the shallow groove, using the aretes on either side, to the small overlap. Make difficult moves through this and climb the wall above to finish on the terrace.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

3) Waffer Wavers *** F7a
Another excellent slab climb up the wall around the corner to the left of the Blade. Start up the short corner to the left of the wall. As early as possible begin traversing out rightwards onto the slab itself and climb this, making occasional use of the arete, to the overlap (tread carefully as some of the thin flakes are quite friable). Make difficult moves through the overlap (crux) and climb the wall and arete above.
For those who have already climbed everything else in the Gully, it is also possible to climb this route without the arete at about F7b
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

4) Roasted Pig * F6b
Climb the obvious wide corner crack, trying not to get wedged too far inside it as you go.
F.A. Unknown

5) Heart of Grace ** F7c 
The wall to the left of Roasted Pig. Weave your way through the corners and overhangs to establish yourself on a good break half way up the wall. Traverse this to the right to a poor rest before a technical sequence leads back out left to good holds and, eventually, the top.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2008)
Equipped as an open project by Stuart Millis in between attempts on Epiphany.

6) Ultraviolet Light My Way (Lower) * F6c
Start up the easy angled slab, passed the start groove of Heart of Grace, until the next groove system splitting the steep wall on the right. Follow this trending right via technical moves. The full route includes the upper portion above the Terrace too. However, most people climb the two sections independently these days.
F.A.  Danny Ng (1992)

7) Love Traffic (Pitch 1) – F6c
Follow the slab to about two-thirds height before breaking right and climbing a groove formed between the steep and slabby walls.
F.A.  Francis Haden & Jonathan Knipper (2012)

8) Chinafication / Cairn Slab – F4
Amble up the easy angled slab following the line of bolts.
F.A.  Francis Haden & Jonathan Knipper (2012)

Fat Slapper Wall

Sea Gully8-01

The following routes are all reached from slightly further down the gully floor:

1) Cast Adrift – F6a+
Steady climbing up the arête bordering the left side of the wall. Some holds around the arête but otherwise stay on the same side as the bolts.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2017)

2) Fat Slapper – F6c+
Technical wall climbing leads to a dynamic crux at the 4th bolt, which is passed directly with a slap for a jug on the edge of the slab above. Finish as for Flip Decision.
F.A. Francis Haden (2017)

3) Flip Decision – F5+
Chimney your way past the massive boulder to gain better holds at the base of the slab, follow the edge of wall / slab to a technical finish before the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2017)

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Big Cat Diary
Big Cat Diary
Big Cat Diary
Coming Soon
The Blade
The Blade
The Blade
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Waffer Wavers
Waffer Wavers
Waffer Wavers
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Roasted Pig
Roasted Pig
Roasted Pig
Coming Soon
Heart of Grace
Heart of Grace
Heart of Grace
Coming Soon
Ultraviolet Light My Way (Lower)
Ultraviolet Light My Way (Lower)
Ultraviolet Light My Way (Lower)
Coming Soon
Love Traffic (P1)
Love Traffic (P1)
Love Traffic (P1)
Coming Soon
Chinafication / Cairn Slab
Chinafication / Cairn Slab
Chinafication / Cairn Slab
Coming Soon
Cast Adrift
Cast Adrift
Cast Adrift
Coming Soon
Fat Slapper
Fat Slapper
Fat Slapper
Coming Soon
Flip Decision
Flip Decision
Flip Decision

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