Sea Gully (Terrace)

Sea Gully2-01

The following climbs all start off the terrace that splits the face at approximately mid-height:

1) Hing’s Arete * F7c
Follow the line of bolts (being as there’s next to no holds to follow!) on the left hand side of the arete.
Bolted by Lau Kung Hing (2000)

2) Chime of Dog * F6c
The first of the climbs starting from the terrace which cuts across the wall at mid-height. A few hard moves up the face and past the first bolt lead to a shallow groove. Follow this and climb up the large flake before stepping right and climbing a short corner to the lower off.
F.A. Saito (1990)

3) Echo of Dog *** F6c+
Follow Chime of Dog to the large flake. Head straight up from the top of the flake and climb directly through the roof above. High in the grade.
F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

joyeelau

Joyee Lau on Echo of Dog (F6c+). Photo: Stuart Millis

4) Lung Tsang Fu Dou *** F7b+
Start to the left of the block on Echo of Dog. Climb the wall above via laybacks and crimps to reach a small ledge, from which it is possible to get established in the crack proper. Move up good layaways in the crack before making a big reach right to side pulls (also used on Echo of Dog). From the side pulls reach up and use two small pockets in the wall above before swinging back left into the crack. Re-establish yourself in the crack (crux) and move up to where ‘Its a Sin’ joins. Finish up this.
F.A. Colin Spark and Stuart Millis (2003)

 

5) It’s a Sin, Steal the Sky ** F7a+
Start well to the left of Echo of Dog at a small step in the terrace. Climb up the right hand side of the large flake to good (but hollow) holds at its top. Make thin moves diagonally rightwards on small crimps and a drilled pocket before stepping into the obvious diagonal crack. Climb this to the top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1994)

6) Logical Progression * F7c
Climb up to the front of the wall to a large ledge. Climb the thin crack in the wall above the ledge with increasing difficulty, making use of small crimps and edges on the blank wall to the right.
Originally climbed on pre-placed gear but retro-bolted by the first ascentionist so others would actually try the climb!
F.A. Stuart Millis and Colin Spark (2001)

7) Crossroads ** F6c+
Climb the shallow groove and mantle onto the ledge. Start up the thin crack and, when possible, make a looooong stretch left into a shallow groove and follow this to the top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

8) Epiphany *** F7c+
Climb the shallow groove to the ledge. Hand traverse left on small crimps until difficult move up bring a small pocket. Make long moves left (hard for the short) before continuing up the wall above on positive but well spaced crimps to a good, but slightly suspect feeling flake. From here a technical and insecure sequence brings the top.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2008)

Epiphany

Neil Carruthers making an early repeat of Epiphany (F7c+): Photo: Stuart Millis Collection

8a) Epiphany Direct – Open Project
The direct line up the lower wall to join Epiphany at the third bolt looks possible but has so far repelled all attempts.
Equipped by Stuart Millis in 2007

9) Uncomfortably Numb ** F7c
From the edge of the terrace traverse along the ledge until you reach a short small groove (long slings protect). Climb the thin crack via some technical and tenuous moves until you reach a reasonable rest at the foot ledge and groove half way up the wall. Compose yourself here before breaking out right from the top of the groove to join the final few moves (and crux) of Epiphany.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2012)

10) The End of the World *** F6b+
A superb climb in a stunning situation. From the end of the terrace make a short traverse left along a foot ledge. Climb a short crack to a small ledge before moving back right on to the wall and arete. Climb a short way up this before following a small groove line in the wall itself.
F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

kev_sea gully

Kevin Wotherspoon high on The End of the World (F6b+). Photo: Stuart Millis

11) Ultraviolet Light My Way (Upper) *** F6c+
Follow End of the World to the small ledge. From here climb the overhanging corner above, moving onto the left hand arete near its top. The full route links the lower section of the climb too, starting from the slab beneath, but the route is seldom done in its entirety these days.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

12) Solomon Corner – F6a+
Climb the corner to the left of Ultraviolet, using the arete to the left in the upper section.
F.A. Solomon Lau (1995)

13) Java Jive ** F6b+
From the second bolt of Solomon Corner bridge out wide and make a big swing left using a good jug at the lip of the overhang. Follow the crack above to the anchor.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

14) Love Traffic (Pitch 2) – F6c+
F.A. Francis Haden (2012) 

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Hing's Arete
Hing's Arete
Hing's Arete
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Chime of Dog
Chime of Dog
Chime of Dog
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Echo of Dog
Echo of Dog
Echo of Dog
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Lung Tsang Fu Duo
Lung Tsang Fu Duo
Lung Tsang Fu Duo
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It's a Sin (Steal the Sky)
It's a Sin (Steal the Sky)
It's a Sin (Steal the Sky)
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Logical Progression
Logical Progression
Logical Progression
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Crossroads
Crossroads
Crossroads
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Epiphany
Epiphany
Epiphany
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Uncomfortably Numb
Uncomfortably Numb
Uncomfortably Numb
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The End of the World
The End of the World
The End of the World
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Ultraviolet Light My Way (Upper)
Ultraviolet Light My Way (Upper)
Ultraviolet Light My Way (Upper)
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Solomon Corner
Solomon Corner
Solomon Corner
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Java Jive
Java Jive
Java Jive
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Love Traffic (P2)
Love Traffic (P2)
Love Traffic (P2)
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