Technical Wall

Technical Wall

Technical Wall on Tung Lung Island

General

Tung Lung’s Technical Wall is a superb single pitch sport climbs on Hong Kong’s premiere crag.

TungLungCrags

Grade Summary - TW

Routes

Left Side

A couple of short routes have been bolted on the front face of the buttress left of Route 1:

Castoff – F4
Pull over the bulge and stride nonchalantly to the lower off.
FA: Francis Haden, Mike Burns 2010

Promenading – F5
Enjoyable climbing on compact rock with a well protected crux.
FA: Francis Haden, Mike Burns 2010

1 – Hourglass Crack – F5+
Climb the wide crack and slab above.

1a – variation start – F??
Avoid the wide crack of Hourglass Crack by climbing the arete to the left.

2 – Skylink – F7b
Technical jamming up the overhanging crack before breaking right, across Black Ring and Kung Fu, to the horizontal break on Bad Boy. Traverse across this to a lower off at the top of the corner.
F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

3 – So – F7b+
Hard climbing between the second and third bolts leads to an easier finish up the groove above.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2000)

4 – The Breaking – F7c
Start as for Route 5, moving left from the second bolt to join Bad Boy. Climb Bad Boy to the undercut flake before moving further right, through the Corner, onto Dimple Face. Finish up this.
F.A. Danny Ng(1995).

5 – Black Ring – F6c+*
Climb the short crack to good holds on a small horizontal ledge. traverse diagonally leftwards and make hard moves into the groove on the left of the ledge. Easier climbing leads up this to the lower off.
F.A. Wong Yee Ping (1991)

6 – Chevalier Hotline – F6c+
Follow Black Ring until the hard moves into the groove, instead climbing the arete and face to a ledge and lower off.
F.A. Danny Ng (1994)

7 – Kung Fu – F7b***
Start up Black Ring until the big pocket just before the hard moves left. From here continue directly up the wall above, via powerful balancy moves, into the groove directly above. Follow this to the lower off.
F.A. Saito (1991)

8- La Revanche des Chicos – F8b**
Relatively straightforward (for a route of this difficulty anyway) climbing up the wall left of Bad Boy leads to a small overlap. From here a series of desperate moves on small sharp sidepulls leads to a good jug in a horizontal break, Continue up the vertical crack above to finish as for Bad Boy.
F.A. Gérôme Pouvreau (2005).

Hing8b

Lau Koon Hing working La Revanche des Chicos (F8b). Photo: Stuart Millis

9 – The Big Dipper – F8a+
The upper section of La Revanche des Chicos, traversing in from Bad Boy along the horizontal break, was climbed as a new route in its own right by C
F.A. Chu Ka Wai (2003)

10 – Tung Lung Bad Boy – F7c+***
A superb and extremely sustained climb up the thin crack line to the left of the corner. Climb the technical crack to the left of the corner to a large undercut hold approximately two thirds of the way up the wall. From the undercut make hard moves to a good pocket (crux) before heading diagonally left to good holds at a horizontal break. Continue up the wall/arete to the ledge above.
F.A. Todd Skinner (1992).

Screenshot 2019-10-05 at 6.08.44 PM

Satoshi Matsudiara on the ultra classic Tung Lung Bad Boy (F7c+). Photo: Jon Butters

11 – The Corner – F6c+***
Without a doubt the classic line of the crag. Climb the obvious overhanging corner line, with increasing difficulty, to the lower off. Also possible to protect with traditional gear, although this makes it considerably more strenuous.

Chandler Kurtz on The Corner (F6c+). Photo: Stuart Millis

1 – Dimple Face – F7b+***
Another absolute classic involving some of the best climbing in Hong Kong. Probably one of the only F7b+’s around with a sit down rest on it! Climb the short overhanging wall to the right of the corner to a small ledge and sit down rest. From the ledge, step right and climb the gently overhanging wall above using small but positive lay aways and finger slots to two large pockets in the centre of the wall. Continue up the wall above via smaller pockets to a large jug just beneath the top. Make some final hard moves up from the jug to the ledge above. Lower off as for the Corner.
F.A. Saito (1991)

2 – Jolly Boy – F7c***
Essentially a harder start to Dimple Face which increases the grade by avoiding the sit down rest. Climb Naughty Boy, making the hard moves past the second bolt, before heading left onto Dimple Face (just above the ledge). Follow this to the top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

3 – Sky Project – F7c+**
Climb Naughty Boy until the flat hold above the roof. From here continue directly up the gently overhanging arete, via some desperately thin climbing, using small holds on either side.
F.A Lau Kung Hing (???)

4 – Naughty Boy – F7b**
Climb the short groove to the right of Dimple Face to a small overhang. Pass this via some interesting moves to a small flat hold. Move right to a good jug and semi-rest before heading back left and climbing the groove above.
F.A. Saito (1991)

5 – Naughty Dragon – F8a***
Relatively little independent climbing, but none the less a fantastic excursion. Start directly beneath the middle off the small roof. Make some tricky moves up to this before launching through it via a small undercut and poor crimp to a good jug. Head left from the jug using small holds to some good layaways on Naughty Boy (just after the flat hold). Continue up and left into the groove before making some thin moves around the arete and into the good pockets on Dimple Face. Catch your breath before sprinting up the final moves of Dimple Face to the top. Soft for the grade and many peoples first F8a (as well as being Hong Kong’s first 8a).
F.A. Saito (1995)

Naughty Dragon Stu

Stuart Millis nearing the end of Naughty Dragon (F8a). Photo: Ron Yue

Looking for beta? then check out our video of this route here

6 – Oriental Pearl – F7c*
Climb up to, and through, the roof just to the right of Naughty Dragon via some bouldery moves. Continue up the awkward bulging groove above.
F.A. Wong Yee Ping (1994)

7 – Halloween – F7c**
Climb up to, and through, the roof just to the right of Naughty Dragon via some bouldery moves. Continue up the awkward bulging groove above.
F.A. Lau Kung Hing (2001)

8 – Purple Heart – F7a***
Climb the obvious rightward trending fault line to some good holds and a small rest. Launch out left on to gently overhanging face and climb this to a large ledge just beneath the top of the wall.
F.A. Danny Ng & Wong Yee Ping (1993)

PHEART2

Fong Ping on Purple Heart (F7a). Photo: Stuart Millis

1 – Big Hand – F6a+**
Climb through a small overlap before making a diagonally rightwards trending traverse up the wall towards the overhang. From beneath the overhang, step right onto the adjacent wall and climb the short groove above. Step right once more and climb through the small overlap to ledges and a lower off.

2 – Depeche Mode – F6c*
Start directly beneath the right hand side of the overhang on Big Hand and climb directly up towards it . Shortly before reaching the overhang begin traversing out rightwards and continue finishing through an overlap to the wedding ledge.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

3 – Wonderful Souvenir – F7a+*
Right again is a small overhang with a crack running up its left hand side. Climb up and through this onto the face above, trending slightly to the right to a good hold and rest. Move back left and continue up the face to join Big Hand just right of the overhang. Continue up this to the lower off.
F.A. Saito (1991)

4 – Bad Girl – F6b+
Interesting moves through the right hand side of the overhang lead up to the jug and rest of Wonderful Souvenir. Finish up either this or the Funnel.
F.A. Terry Ng (1994)

5 – The Funnel – F6a+*
Climb through a small overlap to join the Small Roof at the third bolt.
F.A. Wong Yee Ping (1994)

6 – The Small Roof – F6a+***
Probably the most popular climb on Technical Wall and deservedly so. Follows the obvious corner system heading up to the left hand side of the overhang. Reach through the roof for a good side pull and pull through. Climb the wall above to the lower off.

DCIM100MEDIADJI_0095.JPG

Bon Man on The Small Roof (F6a+). Photo: Stuart Millis

7 – The Big Roof – F6c+
Follow The Small Roof to beneath the overhang before making a short traverse right and pulling through the widest portion of the roof. Climb the short wall above and lower off as for Small Roof.

8 – Bad Man – F6c+*
A more logical and independent version of Big Roof. Start as for Small Roof but follow the slabby corner to its right a short way. Move left on to the gently overhanging wall and climb this until it is possible to rock over onto the slab beneath the overhang. Finish as for Big Roof.
F.A. Terry Ng (????)

1 – The Black Corner – F5+**
Start as for Small Roof but follow the slabby corner to its right to a lower off just above a small overlap.

IMG_1146

Grace Millis on The Black Corner (F5+). Photo: Stuart Millis

2 – The Black Face – F5+*
Climb the slabby wall to the right of Bad Man.

3 – F5+
Climb the crack and slab, passing through a small overlap, to a large ledge and lower off.

5 – The Black Crack -F4+**
Climb the crack and slab, passing through a small overlap, to a large ledge and lower off.

6 – Inverted V – F5+*
Climb the slab to the right of the crack, passing through a series of inverted ‘v’ shaped overlaps.

7 – The Chimney – F4***
The easiest line on the crag and consequently very popular with beginners. Climb the obvious chimney crack at the right hand side of the slabby wall.

8 – Chimney Wall – F5
Climb the wall just to the right of the chimney.

9 – Cave Rib – F5
From the start of The Chimney traverse rightwards along a foot ledge until its is possible to start moving up the blunt rib. Continue up this, and the wall above, to a lower off.

10 – The Sky and the Ocean – F6c
Start as for Cave Rib but continue diagonally rightwards through blocky ground just above the cave lip. Lower off as for Cave Rib.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2000)

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2 responses to “Technical Wall

  1. How do we get there now that the ferry service is closed? This will be my first time going.

  2. Just a warning to everyone, last saturday the nut of the hanger on the second bolt of Tung Lung Bad Boy worked itself loose as i was lowering off the route to my dismay. I am not sure if the stud itself is completely stripped or if the nut just eorked loose over time. I noticed the sleeve of the expansion bolt was a bit dodgy lookimg as well. Anyways, I have the hanger,
    Ill bring it back out there with a new nut next saturday, but there may be good reason to rebolt the route, as you would deck anywhere before the third bolt if one of the bolts were to fail, as nearly happened to me

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