Break right from the top of the streamline on the main crag approach and follow the path a short way until you reach Austin Powers Crag. Continue past the base of this crag before heading slightly uphill at its far side and following another trail further right and to Cave Crag
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1 – Blood and Water – F6a+
2 – Unknown – F5
3 – Unknown – F6a’ish
(4) The Joker * F6a+
Start at the small concrete buttress towards the left end of the crag and climb p on to this using a combination of real rock, concrete and holds bolted on to concrete… Once established atop the concrete buttress continue a short way up the wall above before breaking out left along the slab, following the groove formed by this and the steep wall above. A short steep section awaits at the end of the groove. Recommended to abseil off rather than lower if you value your ropes as the anchor is set back beyond the lip of the crag.
F.A. Ed Pramuk & Phyllis Hsia (2006)
(5) Catch Me If You Can * F7c
Start as for the Joker and follow this to the ledge beneath the slabby section. From here move up the arete / wall to right via a bouldery crux (painful) to gain a good hold on the lip. From here, several powerful moves along the lip of the overhanging wall (not up the face to the right) get you established on a sloping but juggy traverse, which is followed in its entirety to join the end of the Joker. Same recommendation applies regarding getting back down the cliff. Soft for the grade…
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2011)
6 – The Riddler – F6a+**
Tough moves off the ground lead to a brief bridged out respite before strenuous climbing up the middle of the wall brings you to a small notch in the overlap above. Pull though this and continue up the easy ground above to reach the belay.
F.A. Ed Pramuk, Richard Cuncliffe, Tom Chew, Jim Gray and Phyllis Hsia (2006)
7 – Batman and Robbed – F6a*
Another route with a short tough section straight off the ground.
F.A. Richard Cuncliffe, Ed Pramuk, Tom Chew, Jim Gray, Phyllis Hsia and Hanukah (2006)
6 – Rebar – F6c*
Technical moves up the lower wall lead to patches of concrete and protruding reinforcement bars beneath the overhang. Avoiding these as much a spossible make a long reach out to the lip of the roof before executing some gymnastic moves to ull through it. Continue up the wall and arete above to reach the belay.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2007)
9 – Pinhead – F5*
A fun little climb up the right side of the crag. start by clambering up the small spire of rock beneath the crag. Tetter up on top of this before stepping across the void and on to the crag proper just above the lip. Continue easily up the slab above to reach the top of the buttress.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2007)