Pockets Wall
Hidden amongst the bushes about 150 m down the hill to the east of Rocky’s Boulders is a large bloc with a pocketed face and a collection of reasonable quality V1 to V5 problems.
1) Pacman * V3
The right arete of the boulder yield to determined pocket pulling.
2) Manic Miner ** V2
Roughly follow the line of the thin crack splitting the wall, using good pockets and holds around it.
3) Jet Pac * V1
At the left end of the horizontal breaks is a large flake line of questionable stability. Follow this.
4) Spectrum ** V2
The slabby arete at the righthand end of the wall.
5) The Barrel * V4
Just beneath the main boulder is a low roof with numerous sharp pockets in it. Crawl to the back of this and follow the line of pockets out through the steepest part.
The next three problems all start on Pacman and finish as for Jet Pac. It is also possible to continue all of them past Jet Pac to finish up Spectrum, adding about one grade to each problem.
6) The Rail * V2
Climb the first few moves of Pacman before breaking out left along the highest of the three horizontal breakss.
7) Breakdance ** V2
Start as for the previous problem but follow the middle break line. More satisfying to continue across the whole wall and finish as for Spectrum (making the problem V3).
8) Chi Wai’s Traverse ** V5
From the starting holds of Pacman, follow a line of pockets and poor crimps along the lowest of the three breaks. Finish either up Problem 3 or continue left to finish up Problem 4 (V6).
Lone Tree Boulder
This bloc is located just over 50 m down the slope to the southeast of Rock’s Boulder. In the past it was easily identifiable due to the lone tree poking out the top of it. However, Mother Nature and an aggressive government reforestation programme mean its not that lonely anymore (and a lot more boulder maintenance is required…)
1) Branching Out * V3
From two small pockets, reach up and right to a sloping ledge. Finish directly above via the large pocket.
2) Lone Tree ** VB
The left arete of the slabby face.
3) Lone Wolf * VB
Follow the slabby groove. The centre of the slab can be climbed avoiding both the arete and the groove at about V0.
4) Squeeze Job * V4
Follow a line of small pockets and crimps above the roof, avoiding both aretes.
5)Arborist Arête (sds) ** V4
A tricky sit start leads to delightful climbing up the steep arete.
The Lower Boulders
1) VB *
Start right of the overhang and follow the faint crack in the slab above.
2) Wall and Flake ** VB
Start up the pocketed wall and finish up the slab and crack above.
3) VB *
The largest of the crack lines, finishing up the righthand most flake.
4) Gully Slab ** V0
The slabby arete on the righthand side of the gully.
5) Crack Slab * VB
The thin crack above the large pocket.
6) Feeling Flakey ** VB
The leftward trending flake.
7) The Groove V2
Climb the hideous thin groove on the small boulder in front of the large wall.
1) The Bulge V2
From a standing start off the V-shaped pocket and crimps, reach up and mantle the lip.
(1a) V3 (sds)
From a sitting start off a sharp side pull and small crimps reach up into the starting holds of the Bulge and finish as for that problem.
2) Cave Roof Layback V1
Start on a sharp pocket on the lip of the overhang and a good side pull. Pull up and mantle onto the slab above.
(2a) V6 (sds)
The sitting start to the previous problem gives a fierce and not particularly pleasant problem
1) Twin Tree Groove * VB
The groove at the left hand end of the wall. Finishing right through the overhang adds some interest.
2) Scooped Wall *** VB
The centre of the wall, going straight through the overhang on huge pockets.
3) VB *
The vague groove line at the righthand end of the wall.
4) Slab Arete ** VB
The slabby arete at the righthand end of the wall.
The next three problems are located on the steep wall right of the arete.
5) The Money Shot *** V0
Climb the steep side of the arete on an assortment of pockets.
6) V0 *
Take a line up the centre of the wall on good but spaced pockets.
7) VB
Climb the flake and groove at the right end of the wall.
1) No Women No Climb (sds) * V1
Climb the left arête and diagonal crack to the highest point of the boulder.
2) Destiny V0
Start matched in the diagonal crack and rock over on to the slab above. Finish up this.
3) Twelve Monkeys (sds) *** V4
Sit start matched on the good flake. Move up to the small side pull before throwing out left to gain a small hold near the arête before cranking through to the good jug on the lip.
4) Van Halen (sds) ** V5
Start on the good flake as for Twelve Monkeys and finish on the good hold on the lip, just miss out all the holds in between!
5) Destinies Child (sds) * V?
Follow Twelve Monkeys to the small hold on the arête but, instead of going up for the main jug, continue out left for the diagonal break and finish up Destiny instead.