The Summit Boulders
The first two blocs reached, sat atop the hill and with jaw dropping backdrops, offer a good selection of mid-grade problems, some scary highballs, as well as one of the hardest problems in Hong Kong
1) The Classic *** V2
From pockets on the far left hand side of the boulder traverse rightwards along the lip, via an assortment of pockets, jugs and crimps, to the large slopey hold on the far right of the face. Mantleshelf this to the top. A problem which defines the word Classic!
2) North of America (sds) * V4.
Start on two good pockets and launch upwards for good holds at the lip. Mantle to finish.
3) Canadian Influence (sds) * V4
From pockets on the wall reach up to small holds on the sloping shelf above.
The direct to the mantle shelf jug at the end of ‘The Classic’ traverse
5) 螳螂拳 (Mantis Boxing) **V10/11
An audacious and desperate line up the tiny crimps and pockets (mostly mono’s) on the left side of the steep, narrow and high face at the end of the boulder. Demands strength, technique and balls in equal measure…
One for future generations who learn the art of levitation. The narrow blank face starting form the obvious pebbles / protrusions.
1) Arêtenaphobia ** V4
The right hand arête of the slightly overhanging face gives a testing problem. Start on the pebble on the left wall and flake (if you can reach it, otherwise the pebble below) and stay true to the arête for the top out.
2) Arêtenaphobia (sds) ** V5
Sit start to the right of the arête at the obvious juggy ledge (shorties will need to pad stack for this). Move up to the pebbles at the start of the stand version and then finish as for that line.
3) Rock n Roll ** V1
Start with both hands in the thin flake and pull up onto the wall above (without using the arête to the right or the big ledge above you once stood up). Finish up the wall on small pockets.
4) Summit Arete ** VB
The delightful sharp arête. Can be climbed slightly further left at about V1 too.
5) Summit Slab * VB
Follow the line of shallow pockets up the slabby main face of the boulder.
6) The Bump * V0
Pull through the small overlap and continue up the pockets above.
1) Gaston * V3
The thin crack on the left hand side of the face is awkward yet strangely satisfying.
2) V-Notch ** V1
The middle of the face from a stand start
3) V-Notch Sit (sds) ** V5
Sit start (one pad max) and use the bottom of the left side pull and one of the low right hand crimps to lift your butt off the floor (crux). Once lifted, crank through to the start holds on the stand start and finish up this. If your butt wasn’t the last thing to leave the floor, you cheated…
4) Self Explosion (sds) * V7
An eliminate starting as for Problem #3, but staying left of the V-notch and climbing through the bulge on small holds to finish (avoiding the crack on Problem #1).
5) Stretch and Slap * V2
The righthand side of the face. Start at an undercut and use small pockets and slopey side pulls to make upwards progress.
6) The Missing Piece ** V2
Climb the right arête of the face, making use of small pebbles and flakes around the corner.
1) The Rib * V1
The rib on the left of the face, climbed on its right side.
2) The Groove ** V2
The prominent left hand groove line has a tricky start and an exposed end.
3) Ramp and Wall *** V3
The ramp and wall to the left of the arete. The crux is at the top when you’re a long way above the floor!
4) Billy No Mates ** V3
Starting left of ‘The Arete’ attack the narrow face right of Ramp and Wall.
5) The Arete *** V1
A gem of a problem up the rounded arete.