The Portal Boulders

A collection of blocs located on the ridges behind the Lone Ranger Boulders, including a number of slightly highball classics.

Routes

Matrix Blocs

1) There is no Spoon (sds) * V1
Start sat on the boulder and follow good holds up the arete to the top of the triangular face.

2) The Matrix (sds) ** V4
Start matched on the low ledge on the right side of the face. Make technical moves left to the large ledge in the middle of the face before cranking directly to the top on small holds.

3) Matrix Right (sds) * V4
As for Matrix to start but go right to get on to the arête about half way along its length. Finish up this.

4) Matrix Reloaded (sds) * V5
As for Matrix to start but go straight up the wall above the start holds, avoiding any use of the right arête.

5) Matrix High * V3
The stand start for the Matrix from the jug in the middle of the problem.

Stuart Millis on the first ascent of The Matrix

6) Reloaded (sds) ** V2
Sit start on the boulder at the left end of the face. Follow the arete rightwards until you reach the top of the triangular face, slightly trickier than it sounds due to the lack of footholds.

1) The Portal (sds) *** V6
From a sit start, follow crimps and slopers up the arete until dynamic moves lead to ‘the jug of justice’. From here continue up the tenuous and high arete above.

2) Over the Hill ** V0
Follow the line of flaky jugs up the slightly overhanging arete.

3) Under the Bridge – V1
Climb the centre of the small slabby face.

Stuart Millis latching the ‘jug of justice’ on the first ascent of The Portal.

Highball Boulder

1) Lowball * VB
Follow the crack to is end and then continue up the wall, trending slightly left to a large pocket. Finish directly above this.

2) Highball *** V0
An absolute gem of a problem, all be it a little on the scary side. Start up the crack but quickly step right onto large pebbles. Continue up the wall on these, with some trepidation, to its top. Superb!

3) Lobshot ** V0
The right arete, staying on its lefthand side throughout.

4) Smash * V0
The righthand side of the arete.

5) Orange Tree Wall ** V0
The centre of the wall following an orange streak via a series of small ledges. Finish just left of the small sappling.

6) Green Crack * VB
The crack at the right hand side of the wall.

7) End Wall – VB
The narrow wall on the opposite side of the boulder to the highball face