The Beach

General

The beach is a 70 metre high wall delineated by the corner of Lost At Sea on the left (facing in) and the sea cave of Special Ops on the far right hand end. The area is reached by continuing on past Bunker Wall to a short traverse between the Bunker Wall platform and the pebble beach beyond. As the cliff base is tidal, a fixed hand-line is in place to enable an escape when the sea is rough or the tide is in. If the handline has been stolen then use the bolts as runners and climb out (F5).

Routes

1 – Lost At Sea – F6a+*
The obvious corner system on the left of the wall offers pleasant climbing.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2010)

2 – Sex and Rice – F6c
Tricky to start and a committing groove to finish.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2010)

3 – Full Focus F6c+*
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2010)

4 – Call the Ships to Port – F6b/6b+
Fun exit ramp and sustained lower wall to start. Some cheesy rock in the corner.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2010)

5 – Life’s a Beach – F6a+*
Good micro route for absorbing any remaining energy at the end of the day, or a warm up.
F.A. Francis Haden 17/10/2010

6 – Washed Up – F6c+*
Reasonable climbing to a hard, technical finish made easier if the holds are chalked.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2010)

7 – Dead Calm – F6b, F6b
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2010)

8 – Dyke – F5
Follow the dyke feature up the wall, staying to the right of the bolts.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2011)

Dyke

9 – On Beachy Head – F6a
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2011)

10 – Keel Haul – F6c*
Great moves pulling into the hanging groove.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2010)

11 – Open Project – F7c+’ish
Powerful climbing through the stacked roofs to join Keel Haul’s crux. Use the first bolt for aid to pre-clip the next bolt on the route (or bring a clip stick).

12 – Special Ops – F7b+***
Absorbing climbing through the cave roof with a powerful crux at the lip. Sure to provide a full body workout. Shorter climbers will find this very hard.
F.A. Francis Haden (2011)

13 – Black Ops – F7b**
Essentially a direct start to Special Ops but no cop out on the crux!
F.A. Francis Haden (2011)

14 – Stone Percussion F7b*
F.A. Donna Kwok (2011)

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