KKL – Slytherin Sector

General

The Slytherin Blocs is a small and accessible area (from the drop off point) that is home to a number of fine low- to mid-grade problems. The northerly aspect and ease of access makes it a good spot for a quick afternoon session.  

Access

The Slytherin Blocs are located on the northern side of Kai Kung Leng, near the Ngau Tam Mei Fresh Water Service Reservoir. Access will require either a taxi ride or a car to get you to the bend in the road / stream just east of the Ngau Tam Mei Service Reservoir (22.468633, 114.074353). From the small clearing, follow the slope maintenance staircase to the left of the stream (looking up hill)a short way before breaking left along a berm. This will bring you to a dirt trail that weaves up the hill to eventually reach a small outcrop. Follow the trail right at this point and scramble over and around some blocs to reach the bouldering area itself. The approach takes less than 10 minutes from the road.

Blocs

Basilisk

The first major bloc reached is a gravity defying boulder housing two lines, one of which is a rather serious proposition requiring a very steady head.

1) Basilisk ** V5
A pulse raising excursion up the main face of the bloc. From pockets above the ledge, step left above the drop and keep moving up and left across the face with increasing trepidation.

2) Nagini V2
Start at the same spot as Basilisk but take the more sensible direct approach up the face above. Just be careful not to bounce off left if you fall!

The Wall beneath the Basilisk overhang also appears to have potential for a few lines for those willing to spend some time clearing and cleaning it a bit.

Quidditch

Just around the corner from the Bailisk is a tall slabby face with a number of pleasant highball slab climbs on it.

1) Invisibility Cloak * V1
Follow the pockets up the left side of the slab, trending behind the tree and being
hidden by the bushes.

2) The Golden Snitch * V1
Another pocketed line, this time taking the slab just to the left of the crack splitting the upper part of the face.

3) Quaffle * V1
Start directly beneath the crack and climb up to, and then follow, this.

4) Nimbus 2000 ** V2
Follow the pockets up the wall to the right of the hanging crack, passing through the overlap just to the right of the v-shape.

5) Holyhead Harpies ** V1
Climb the right side of the slabby face.

Snitch

Just up the hill from the Quidditch Bloc is another slab with a couple of easy lines.

1) Snidget * VB
The left side of the slab, following a series of large incut pockets.

2) Seeker * VB
The right side of the slab, starting at the large flake.

Spell Bloc

Continuing up the trail a short distance from Snitch Slab, and bearing slightly left brings you to a large opening in the vegetation and a cluster of several quality blocs. The most prominent of these is the long face of the Spell Bloc

1) Sectumsempra (sds) * V4
Start on small pockets low on the left side of the face. Make a tendon wrenching pull to get started and then follow much nicer pockets up the wall above.

2) Stupefy (sds) * V1
Sit start at a low deep pocket. Make a powerful pull to good crimps and then follow the deep pockets above.

3) Obliviate * V1
Start at a low lay away. Pull up to the left side of the ledge above and then continue up positive pockets.

4) Crucio * V2
Start at the low ledge on the right side of the wall. Pull up and left to the right side of the higher ledge, before continuing directly up this via small crimps and pockets.

5) Cunfundo ** V1
Start as for Crucio, but this time keep working your way left across the wall to eventually join and finish up Stupefy.

6) Avada Kedavra * V2
Sit start at the same ledge as the previous problems. From here, crank directly up to climb the wall above via an assortment of crimps and pockets.

7) Smoothie Power (sds) ** V4
From the low ledge on the right side of the wall, make a low level traverse right to gain a gaston in a positive pocket at the arête. Move powerfully from this to gain more pockets above and an easier finish.

8) Patronum (sds) ** V2
Start using the low pocket beneath the gaston on Smoothie Power and an even lower pocket out right. Use these to get established on the face and to join the upper part of Smoothie Power.

Sirius Bloc

Sandwiched between the Spell Bloc and Horcrux Bloc, this boulder provides some of the harder test pieces in the Slytherin Sector.

1) Fire Ant Straight (sds) V6
Start at a positive layaway low on the left side of the face. Figure out how to get established without dabbing the boulder to the left or the tree stump, then attack the wall directly above with difficulty.

2) Fire Ant (sds) * V7
Start as for the previous problem, but rather than just topping out, traverse right using pockets and crimps beneath the lip to eventually top out at the right arête.

3) Black Magic (sds) V8
From the same start as the previous problems, make a low right traverse across the face to gain the thin undercut flake, which is followed upwards. Be gentle with the flakes as they may not last that long given their hollow sound.

4) Azkaban *** V5
Start on small crimps on the left side of the face. Reach up to a small pocket and then make a long move to the lip above.

5) Azkaban (sds) ** V8
The sit start to Azkaban, moving into the original line from tiny crimps and pebbles low on the right side of the face.

6) Goblet of Fire ** V5
From opposing sidepulls either side of the arête, slap your way up the narrow prow.

7) Dementor (sds) ** V3
Sit start at the positive pockets right of the arête. Pull up to the shelf above and then traverse this left to eventually move around the arête and on to the Azkaban face. Rock over the lip to finish.

8) Muggle Struggle (sds) * V2
Start as for Dementor. Reach up to the sloping shelf directly above and then continue through this to top out.

Feedback

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Basilisk
Basilisk
Basilisk
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Nagini
Nagini
Nagini
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Invisibility Cloak
Invisibility Cloak
Invisibility Cloak
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The Golden Snitch
The Golden Snitch
The Golden Snitch
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Quaffle
Quaffle
Quaffle
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Nimbus 20000
Nimbus 20000
Nimbus 20000
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Holyhead Harpies
Holyhead Harpies
Holyhead Harpies
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Sectumsempra
Sectumsempra
Sectumsempra
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Stupefy
Stupefy
Stupefy
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Obliviate
Obliviate
Obliviate
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Crucio
Crucio
Crucio
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Confundo
Confundo
Confundo
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Avada Kedavra
Avada Kedavra
Avada Kedavra
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Smoothie Power
Smoothie Power
Smoothie Power
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Patronum
Patronum
Patronum
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Fire Ant Straight
Fire Ant Straight
Fire Ant Straight
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Fire Ant
Fire Ant
Fire Ant
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Black Magic
Black Magic
Black Magic
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Azkaban
Azkaban
Azkaban
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Azkaban (sds)
Azkaban (sds)
Azkaban (sds)
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Goblet of Fire
Goblet of Fire
Goblet of Fire
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Dementor
Dementor
Dementor
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Muggle Struggle
Muggle Struggle
Muggle Struggle