Tai Mo Shan Boulders

Hong Kong’s highest peak offers the keen a scattered but worthwhile collection of boulders and a ton of potential for further development. The problems recorded here are just a handful of what’s been climbed over the years as subsequent groups head out there to explore what has, until now, largely remained undocumented.

Access

The bouldering areas on Tai Mo Shan are all accessed from Tai Mo Shan Road, which in itself is accessed from Route Twisk. For those approaching on public transport,  your best bet is to take the MTR to Tsuen Wan or Tsuen Wan West Stations. From either of these you can then take the #51 Lui Kung Tin Tsuen bus to Tai Mo Shan Country Park Visitor Centre. From here you’ll have to hike up Tai Mo Shan Road a fair way to reach the bouldering areas themselves. A better option is to just grab a taxi from the MTR station to avoid (or at least cut down) the amount of hiking needed.

Bouldering Areas

Easy Access Boulders

The first set of boulders encountered are located on the ridgeline overlooking the lower part of Tai Mo Shan Road and can be accessed either by hiking uphill from the Visitor Centre or (more easily) from the large parking and picnic areas just above the bouldering areas.

The Crazy Boulder

Details coming soon. For now, see here for problem info

Gateside Boulders

The Gateside Boulders is the collection of large blocs located predominantly beneath the road in the area just beyond the gate blocking access to the upper portion of the road. Sadly it sounded like they have become quite overgrown in recent years.

Some of the boulders climbed at Gateside Area

Switchback Boulders

The Switchback Boulders are the collection of blocs located on the ridgeline to the east of the series of switchbacks in the upper portion of Tai Mo Shan Road, close to a collection of ruined old buildings.

A selection of pics of established problems are provided below, all thanks to Royce Ferguson. More detailed topo’s to follow later on:

Canadian Crab (V0)
Hairy Lobster (V1)
Pe Arete (V2)
Big Willie Style (V6)
McNuggets (V2)
Dihedral Dyno (V5)
Quickdraw (V6)
Baby Buddha Arete (V3)
White Mule (V3 or V7 (sds))
The Funk (V4)
Hanging Tuff (V4)
Go Big and Go Home (V6)
Starships Were Made to Fly (V5)
Grunty Gary (V6)
Jabba (sds) (V7)
Project…
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