General

A collection of low to mid-grade bolted lines on several granite buttresses above and below the Jardine’s North Catchwater footpath. The crags remain relatively shaded throughout the morning

Access

The crag is accessed from Mount Butler Road, via a set of concrete steps that head up the hill from the roadside just downhill from the HKPF Explosive Ordnance Depot. These steps lead you up to the Jardine’s North Catchwater. Turn right onto this and follow it around the hillside to reach the crag in less than 15 minutes.

Routes

Main Wall

The Main Wall is the first prominent outcrops encountered above the catchwater, with routes up to 25 m in length (mostly up to 15 m) requiring up to 12 quickdraws.

1) Steel Appeal F3
F.A. F. Haden, S. Zwart, V. Wong (2022)

2) Arrested development * F5
F.A. F. Haden, S. Zwart, V. Wong (2022)

3) The Eleventh Hour ** F4
F.A. F. Haden, S. Zwart, V. Wong (2022)

4) Channel the Inner You ** F6a
The vertical crack/seam starts off punchy but soon eases to more relaxing climbing above.
F.A. F. Haden, S. Zwart, V. Wong (2022)

5) Hold, Hold, Hold! * F6a+
The wide crack provides a thuggish start before the slab brings a respite and easier climbing to the anchor
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2022)

6) Drill Jockey * F5
Start up the steep ramp before moving slightly right to a discontinuous crack. This leads to a slabby wall and easier climbing to the anchor.
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2022)

7) Prosecuting Fun * F6b
Thin and technical climbing through the lower wall brings relatively straightforward climbing up the slab above.
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2022)

8) Around the Bend F3
F.A. F. Haden, S. Zwart, V. Wong (2022)

Right Buttress

About 100 m beyond the Main Crag and beneath the catchwater is a notable slab that is accessed where the railings end by carefully scrambling down the hillside and following the handline to a bolt belay at the top of the slab.

1) Fade to Grey * F6a
Start up the flake on the left side of the wall and follow this until it is possible to pull around the arete and into the slab proper. Romp up this to finish.
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2022)

2) View to a Drill * F6a
Pull through the lower wall via the scooped out feature and then continue up the pleasant yet easy slab above.
F.A. F. Haden, D. Lo (2022)

3) Big Bang Theory ** F4
Make powerful and tricky moves through the steep wall beneath the slab, before passing your way up this to finish.
F.A. D. Lo, V. Wong, F. Haden (2022)

4) For the Many, Not the Few * F4
Follow the series of broken ledges and steps up the right side of the slab.
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2022)