Cheung Yan Shan


A recently developed bloc on the eastern flank of Lantau Peak on Lantau Island. Big thanks to Matthew Sze for the development and problem information


The Blocs are best accessed from Tung Chung, where you can take the #3M Bus to Pak Kung Au 伯公坳 (at the top of the steep hill after you leave Tung Chung). From the bus stop, follow the Lantau Trail (Section 3) west until you reach Ngau Tong Au 牛塘坳. Turn left here to then follow the trail to Cheung Yan Shan 長屻山. After about 500m and you will see the Cheung Yan bloc on the side of the oath. Overall approach time is about 20-25 minutes.


The Bloc is quite high and has a slightly sketchy downclimb so most lines finish at the holds indicated rather than topping out. For Problems 7 to 9 there is no clearcut finish hold so simply get established stood comfortably on the slab and climb as high as you’re comfortable with before jumping off.

1) Lychee, V3
Start from a jug on the right side. Follow the edge and make a left traverse to a slopey edge as an end hold. Drop off from here.

2) GuiFei, V3
Start from two crimps on the overhang. Make a dynamic move to the edge on the right side of the face and finish up as “Lychee”.

3) Emperor, V5
Start from two crimps on the overhang. Avoid using the lip on the right side and make upward moves to the end of “Lychee”.

4) Everlasting Regret (sds), V8
Start from a large pocket and make a right traverse to the right-side edge to link “GuiFei”.

5) Everlasting Regret Var (sds), V9
Start as “Everlasting Regret (sds)” and make the right traverse until reaching the start of “Emperor”. Finish up as “Emperor”.

6) Project (sds)
Start as “Everlasting Regret (sds)”. While reaching the bad sloper, make upward moves to the end of “Lychee”.

7) Rebellion (sds), V3
Start as “Everlasting Regret (sds)” but climb left to a V-shape lip. Finish by standing on the slab upward and drop off.

8) Epic love, V4
Start on a crimp hold on the left side. Avoid using the steep arete upward and make a right transverse to the end of “Rebellion”.

9) V0
Start as “Epic love” and climb upward. Finish by standing on the slab above the steep arete and drop off.