A developing area up in the heavens near the summit radio station on Tai Mo Shan
Access directions to this area are pretty simple. From the gate blocking further vehicular access up Tai Mo Shan Road (unless in a taxi or GoGo Van in which case you may get lucky and be allowed higher), start walking up the road. Then, continue walking up the road and keep doing so until you reach a series of hairpin bends and switchbacks.
The first area (Roadside Blocs) are located between the uppermost set of switchbacks, at the top of a small shotcrete covered slope and just beneath the straighter continuation of Tai Mo Shan Road. To reach The Heavens proper, continue along the road until the Radar Station is almost directly above you to the left and the obvious blocs are directly beneath you to the right. From here, pick the path of least resistance through the vegetation and battle your way down to the blocs themselves. This last part should hopefully open up a bit more as traffic to the area increases.
The first worthwhile cluster of boulders is situated atop a man-made slope on the final switchback of Tai Mo Shan Road.
1) Fairground Attraction (sds) ** V2
Climb the narrow overhanging face of the main bloc, starting from a sit using side pulls on either side of the face.
2) Carousel (sds) * V1
The short gently overhanging crack is climbed with ease, gaining the top of the bloc, less so…
The main cluster of boulders, located just beneath Tai Mo Shan Road, several hundred metres up hill from Roadside.
These are the two very large blocs located in the upper part of the Roadside Cluster, comprising several long easy slabs as well as a series of steeper more interesting faces up to about 6 m in height.
1) Cardiac Arête ** V2
The high right arête of the left face has a tricky start, but fortunately a much more straightforward upper section.
2) Palpitations * V3
Climb the right trending crack to join, and finish up, Cardiac Arête at about mid-height.
1) BFG ** V1
Start at the obvious hold at chest height and then climb the scooped wall above
Start with small pocket for right and slopey side pull for left. Gain the crimp above and then continue up and left via poor friable rails and pebbles
3) Project (sds)
Sit start with a low left pocket and higher right side pull. Make difficult moves from these ton gain the stand start, which is then followed.
4) Super Fly Guy *** V3
Launch from the obvious rail to the top of the wall.
5) Super Fly Guy (sds) *** V4
Sit start using opposing side pulls and poor feet. Launch up to the start rail on Super Fly Guy and then follow that line to the top.
6) Not Tried (sds)
The right arête of the face