The Heavens

A developing area up in the heavens near the summit radio station on Tai Mo Shan

Access

Coming soon

Blocs

Roadside

The first worthwhile cluster of boulders is situated atop a man-made slope on the final switchback of Tai Mo Shan Road.

1) Fairground Attraction (sds) ** V2
Climb the narrow overhanging face of the main bloc, starting from a sit using side pulls on either side of the face.

2) Carousel (sds) * V1
The short gently overhanging crack is climbed with ease, gaining the top of the bloc, less so…

The Heavens

The main cluster of boulders, located just beneath Tai Mo Shan Road several hundred metres up hill from Roadside.

Palpitations Blocs

mostly easy looking slab lines
possible sit start for narrow face

1) Cardiac Arete ** V2
The high right arête of the left face has a tricky start, but fortunately a much more straightforward upper section.

2) Palpitations * V3
Climb the right trending crack to join, and finish up, Palpitations at about mid-height.

very high slab

Below Palpitations

easy slab
some possible hard sit starts
not super inspiring
possible pull on at lip lines
this roof looks doable but the main flake was kinda suss looking

SFG Bloc

1) BFG ** V1
Start at the obvious hold at chest height and then climb the scooped wall above

2) Project
Start with small pocket for right and slopey side pull for left. Gain the crimp above and then continue up and left via poor friable rails and pebbles

3) Project (sds)
Sit start with a low left pocket and higher right side pull. Make difficult moves from these ton gain the stand start, which is then followed.

4) Super Fly Guy *** V3
Launch from the obvious rail to the top of the wall.

5) Super Fly Guy (sds) *** V4
Sit start using opposing side pulls and poor feet. Launch up to the start rail on Super Fly Guy and then follow that line to the top.

6) Not Tried (sds)
The right arête of the face