Kowloon Peak

General

A couple of relatively easily accessible bouldering areas with a good selection of problems on them. Some are quite highball so lots of pads and spotters are recommended.

Jonathan Sin on Roaring (sds) (V6). Photo: Stuart Millis

General Access

Both sectors are accessed via the lower part of Fei Ngo Shan Road, which is best approached via taxi from Choi Hung MTR.

Problems

Roadside Boulder (飛鵝山路邊石)

The Roadside Boulder (22.345099, 114.225335) is located higher up the road, a few minutes up the road from the first footpath you see heading up to the top of Kowloon Peak. The block is visible from the road and has the best approach in Hong Kong! Multiple pads (five or more is best) recommended to safeguard landings.

1) Pebble Wrestle (sds) * V2
About the only problem on the sector that doesn’t feel terrifying. Sit start using the ledge on the right of the slab for both hands and a foot. Press, mantle, wrestle this feature to eventually get stood upon it, Finish easily up the slab and arête above.

2) Roadside * V2
On the left side of the face is a series of large side pulls and slope ledges. Start on positive holds just beneath the first big juggy left hand side pull and work your way up these features to a worrying top out.

3) Roadside (Low) ** V4
Start matched on the large blob in the middle of the face before launching up and left to gain a series of small holds that enable you to work your way across the face to join the low juggy side pull near the start of Roadside. Finish up that.

4) Roadside (sds) ** V5
A further extension to Roadside that links the sit start of Roaring into Roadside (Low).

5) Roaring (咆哮) *** V5
Start matched on the obvious blob in the middle of the face. From this, launch directly up the face above via a series of small, but positive, crimps, undercuts and side pulls until a committing throw [hopefully] brings the jug on the lip. From here make big moves left to finish up the large side pull flake. Simply class and a must tick.

6) Roaring (sds) *** V6
Sit start at the bottom right corner of the face, at the positive side pull n the crack and the low flaky arête. Make powerful moves up from these to get established on the stands start holds (crux), before continuing up the original line to complete one of the best problems in Hong Kong.

7) Heart of Glass *** V5
Start matched on the good flake on the right side of the main face. From here pull and up left, using the various crimps and side pulls available to eventually enable a terrifying throw for the lip and an even more ‘heart in mouth’ finish through this. Really good but scary climbing. A low sit start is also possible at V6.

8) Teamwork * V7/8
Start on positive holds in the obvious flake feature on the right side of the steep wall. Pull up from here to holds that are the diametric opposite of the start hold (e.g. non-existent micro crimps) before somehow gaining more positive holds high and to the right. Finish directly above these.

9) Teamwork (sds) ** V8
Sit start on a right hand gaston and left side pull directly beneath the good flake. Make hard moves to gain the flake before finishing as for the stand start.

Sze Wang Ngai nailing the FA of Teamwork (V8). Photo: Stuart Millis

10) Project
It is just about possible to pull on to the overhanging arete using small crimps and pockets. Moving any further up it however has thus far shut down all would be suitors.

11) Socrates (蘇格拉底) ** V6
The overhanging corner on the right side of the steep main wall provides a technical and frustrating challenge. However, it’s the sit start you really want to do…

12) Socrates (蘇格拉底) (sds) *** V7
Sit start on positive side pulls low down and work you way up the corner feature via lay backs, slope arête pinches and a worrying all out slap for the horn at the lip, which is following by an equally worrying mantle on to the [usually] dirty slab above.

13) V1
On the far right and lower side of the boulder is an obvious left facing large side pull. Start here and pull through the juggy terrain above to gain the slab and finish.

Channing Lai working 蘇格拉底 (V7). Photo: Stuart Millis

Kowloon Peak Boulders

The two bloc at the Kowloon Peak sector are accessed from the end of the access road for the Fei Ngo Shan Service Reservoir, which is the gated road just off the lower part of Fei Ngo Shan Road. From the circular service reservoir, follow the path around the uphill side of this to gain a small track down the slopes on the far side. Follow this down the hill and streamline for a few minutes to reach the boulders themselves.

Harmony Boulder (一團和氣石)

1) V1

2) Euphony ** V2
Start matched on the sloping shelf and make tricky moves to gain the deep pocket near the lip, avoiding the good breaks etc. around the corner to the left.

3) Harmony (sds) ** V4
Sit start at the obvious break beneath the right side of the roof. From here pull out through the roof and follow a series of crimps and pinches along its lip to eventually finish up XXXX

4) Project
From the start of Harmony somehow work your way out through the largest part of the roof. Seams feasible but has repelled all attempts so far.

5) Rhapsody V4
Sit start at the break beneath the right side of the roof and climb out through the overhanging corner system on the ride side of the face.

Kinson singing in Harmony (V4) with the rock. Photo: Stuart Millis

Heart Seal Boulder (心心石)

details to follow