Technical Wall on Tung Lung Island
General
Tung Lung’s Technical Wall is a superb single pitch sport climbs on Hong Kong’s premiere crag. Further details can be found in the PDF guide here
Routes
1) Castoff – F4
Pull over the bulge and stride nonchalantly to the lower off.
FA: Francis Haden, Mike Burns 2010
2) Promenading – F5
Enjoyable climbing on compact rock with a well protected crux.
FA: Francis Haden, Mike Burns 2010
3) variation start – F??
Avoid the wide crack of Hourglass Crack by climbing the arete to the left.
4) Agrippa (a.k.a Hourglass Crack) * F5+
Climb the wide corner crack and slab above.
F.A. R. Taylor & K. Hazelaar (1971)
5) Skylink – F7b
Technical jamming up the overhanging crack before breaking right, across Black Ring and Kung Fu, to the horizontal break on Bad Boy. Traverse across this to a lower off at the top of the corner.
F.A. Danny Ng (1993)
6) So – F7c
Hard climbing between the second and third bolts leads to an easier finish up the groove above.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2000)
7) A Muerte *** F8a+
Another massive link up that starts up the bouldery crux of So before traversing right to the juggy block on Black Ring and through the crux sequence of Kung Fu. From the big pocket after the crux of Kung Fu, traverse further right to The Big Dipper and follow this, through the crux of that line, to the positive undercling at the small overlap. From here, a short traverse right brings you to the anchors of The Corner.
F.A. Tom Tam (2020)
8) The Breaking – F7c
Start as for Kung Fu, moving right after the crux to work your way across to the horizontal break connecting Big Dipper and Bad Boy. Follow this to join Bad Boy, which is climbed to the undercut flake, before moving further right, through the Corner and onto Dimple Face. Finish up this.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995).
9) Black Ring * F6c+
Climb the short crack to good holds on a small horizontal ledge. traverse diagonally leftwards and make hard moves into the groove on the left of the ledge. Easier climbing leads up this to the lower off.
F.A. Wong Yee Ping (1991)
10) Chevalier Hotline * F7a
Follow Black Ring until the hard moves into the groove. Avoiding all holds in the corner, climb the arete and faces either side to a ledge and lower off.
F.A. Danny Ng (1994)
11) Kung Fu *** F7b
Start up Black Ring until the big pocket just before the hard moves left. From here continue directly up the wall above, via powerful balancy moves, into the groove directly above. Follow this to the lower off.
F.A. Saito (1991)
12) La Revanche des Chicos * F8b
Relatively straightforward (for a route of this difficulty anyway) climbing up the wall left of Bad Boy leads to a small overlap. From here a series of desperate moves on small sharp sidepulls leads to a good jug in a horizontal break, Continue up the vertical crack above to finish as for Bad Boy.
F.A. Gérôme Pouvreau (2005) – Flashed!
Lau Koon Hing working La Revanche des Chicos (F8b). Photo: Stuart Millis
13) The Big Dipper – F8a
The upper section of La Revanche des Chicos, traversing in from Bad Boy along the horizontal break, was climbed as a new route in its own right by C
F.A. Chu Ka Wai (2003)
Equipped by Lau Koon Hing
14) Tung Lung Bad Boy *** F7c+
A superb and extremely sustained climb up the thin crack line to the left of the corner. Climb the technical crack to the left of the corner to a large undercut hold approximately two thirds of the way up the wall. From the undercut make hard moves to a good pocket (crux) before heading diagonally left to good holds at a horizontal break. Continue up the wall/arete to the ledge above.
F.A. Todd Skinner (1992).
Satoshi Matsudiara on the ultra classic Tung Lung Bad Boy (F7c+). Photo: Jon Butters
15) The Corner *** F6c+
Without a doubt the classic line of the crag. Climb the obvious overhanging corner line, with increasing difficulty, to the lower off. Also possible to protect with traditional gear, although this makes it considerably more strenuous.
Chandler Kurtz on The Corner (F6c+). Photo: Stuart Millis
1) Dimple Face *** F7b+
Another absolute classic involving some of the best climbing in Hong Kong. Probably one of the only F7b+’s around with a sit down rest on it! Climb the short overhanging wall to the right of the corner to a small ledge and sit down rest. From the ledge, step right and climb the gently overhanging wall above using small but positive lay aways and finger slots to two large pockets in the centre of the wall. Continue up the wall above via smaller pockets to a large jug just beneath the top. Make some final hard moves up from the jug to the ledge above. Lower off as for the Corner.
F.A. Saito (1991)
2) Jolly Boy ** F7c
Essentially a harder start to Dimple Face which increases the grade by avoiding the sit down rest. Climb Naughty Boy, making the hard moves past the second bolt, before heading left onto Dimple Face (just above the ledge). Follow this to the top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)
3) Sky Project ** F7c+
Climb Naughty Boy until the flat hold above the roof. From here continue directly up the gently overhanging arete, via some desperately thin climbing, using small holds on either side.
F.A Lau Koon Hing (???)
4) Naughty Boy * F7b
Climb the short groove to the right of Dimple Face to a small overhang. Pass this via some interesting moves to a small flat hold. Move right to a good jug and semi-rest before heading back left and climbing the groove above.
F.A. Saito (1991)
5) Naughty Dragon *** F8a
Relatively little independent climbing, but none the less a fantastic excursion. Start directly beneath the middle off the small roof. Make some tricky moves up to this before launching through it via a small undercut and poor crimp to a good jug. Head left from the jug using small holds to some good layaways on Naughty Boy (just after the flat hold). Continue up and left into the groove before making some thin moves around the arete and into the good pockets on Dimple Face. Catch your breath before sprinting up the final moves of Dimple Face to the top. Soft for the grade and many peoples first F8a (as well as being Hong Kong’s first 8a). Also called Oriental Dragon in some of the old topo’s for Tech Wall.
F.A. Saito (1995)
A youthful Stuart Millis nearing the end of Naughty Dragon (F8a). Photo: Ron Yue
Looking for beta? then check out our video of this route here
6) Naughty Project ** F8a+
Climb Naughty Dragon until it reaches the arete of Sky Project, which is then followed to the top.
FA. Lam Ka Chun (201?)
7) Oriental Pearl * F7c
Climb up to, and through, the roof as for Naughty Dragon before joining the holds on Naughty Boy out left. Follow these back up and right to the arête before continuing up the crack above.
F.A. Wong Yee Ping (1994)
8) Halloween ** F7c
Climb up to, and through, the roof just to the right of Naughty Dragon via some bouldery moves. Continue up the awkward bulging groove above.
F.A. Lau Kung Hing (2001)
9) Purple Heart *** F7a
Climb the obvious rightward trending fault line to some good holds and a small rest. Launch out left on to gently overhanging face and climb this to a large ledge just beneath the top of the wall.
F.A. Danny Ng & Wong Yee Ping (1993)
Fong Ping on Purple Heart (F7a). Photo: Stuart Millis
10) Big Hand ** F6a+
Climb through a small overlap before making a diagonally rightwards trending traverse up the wall towards the overhang. From beneath the overhang, step right onto the adjacent wall and climb the short groove above. Step right once more and climb through the small overlap to ledges and a lower off.
11) Depeche Mode * F6c
Start directly beneath the right hand side of the overhang on Big Hand and climb directly up towards it . Shortly before reaching the overhang begin traversing out rightwards and continue finishing through an overlap to the wedding ledge.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)
12) Wonderful Souvenir * F7a+
Right again is a small overhang with a crack running up its left hand side. Climb up and through this onto the face above, trending slightly to the right to a good hold and rest. Move back left and continue up the face to join Big Hand just right of the overhang. Continue up this to the lower off.
F.A. Saito (1991)
13) Bad Girl * F6b+
Interesting moves through the right hand side of the overhang lead up to the jug and rest of Wonderful Souvenir. Finish up either this (as per the first ascent and at a grade of F6c+) or the Funnel.
F.A. Terry Ng (1994)
14) The Funnel * F6a+
Climb through a small overlap to join the Small Roof at the third bolt. Follow this a short way before breaking out left at the V-roof to attain the hanging groove above, which is followed back right to reach the short headwall above.
F.A. Wong Yee Ping (1994)
1) The Small Roof *** F6a+
Probably the most popular climb on Technical Wall and deservedly so. Follows the obvious corner system heading up to the left hand side of the overhang. Reach through the roof for a good side pull and pull through. Climb the wall above to the lower off.
Hayley Ho on the mega classic The Small Roof (F6a+). Photo: Jon Butters
2) The Big Roof – F6c+
Follow The Small Roof to beneath the overhang before making a short traverse right and pulling through the widest portion of the roof. Climb the short wall above and lower off as for Small Roof.
3) Bad Man * F6c+
A more logical and independent version of Big Roof. Start as for Small Roof but follow the slabby corner to its right a short way. Move left on to the gently overhanging wall and climb this until it is possible to rock over onto the slab beneath the overhang. Finish as for Big Roof.
F.A. Terry Ng (????)
4) The Black Corner ** F5+
Start as for Small Roof but follow the slabby corner to its right to a lower off just above a small overlap.
Grace Millis on The Black Corner (F5+). Photo: Stuart Millis
5) The Black Face * F5+
Climb the slabby wall to the right of Bad Man.
6) F5+
Climb the crack and slab, passing through a small overlap, to a large ledge and lower off.
7) The Black Crack *** F4+
Climb the crack and slab, passing through a small overlap, to a large ledge and lower off.
8) Inverted V * F5+
Climb the slab to the right of the crack, passing through a series of inverted ‘v’ shaped overlaps.
9) The Chimney *** F4
The easiest line on the crag and consequently very popular with beginners. Climb the obvious chimney crack at the right hand side of the slabby wall.
10) Chimney Wall – F5
Climb the wall just to the right of the chimney.
11) Cave Rib – F5
From the start of The Chimney traverse rightwards along a foot ledge until its is possible to start moving up the blunt rib. Continue up this, and the wall above, to a lower off.
12) The Sky and the Ocean – F6c
Start as for Cave Rib but continue diagonally rightwards through blocky ground just above the cave lip. Lower off as for Cave Rib.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2000)