General

Note: It appears that portions of this crag have been subject to notable rock fall and collapse since this guide was prepared. As such the routes described herein should be approached with caution and appropriate safety measures (helmets as a minimum) taken to protect oneself. 

Clear Water Bay’s Tai Hang Tun has single pitch sport and trad climbs in a lovely setting. The upper parts of the cliff are of dubious quality so helmets are advised for some climbs, and to be brutally honest, I’d stick to the bolted stuff, the rocks quite brittle in places so not all trad placements will be good enough to hold a fall. Having said this, the bolts are probably getting quite old by now so should also be treated with caution…

There also seems to be a bit of Deep Water Solo potential here (check out the area at the end of the crag) so that might be your safest bet right now….

Approach

East facing sea cliffs accessed from the country park parking area at the end of Clear Water Bay Road. Take Clear Water Bay Road to Tai Au Mun and then instead of turning right down toward the country club, continue straight on Clear Water Bay Road. The area can also be reached by mini bus.

From the parking lot, follow the sign for Clear Water Bay Tree Walk which turns left off the main path at Tai Hang Tun barbecue area. Continue down a set of stone stairs and turn left though a fenced off area into a field, passing a “Danger Cliffs” sign. Continue down a distinct path through the grass to a stream bed. Follow the stream bed to the top of some broken cliffs. Pick your way easily down for about 30 meters and then around to the left to find abseil bolts above ‘High Tide’ zawn. At low tide it is possible to walk into or out of the zawn, but at high tide the abseil bolts and the bolted climbing line back out offer the safest access. Continue to pick your way north along the rocks above the ocean for about 200 meters before coming upon a detached pillar on the right and the climbing area on the left.

Routes

High Tide Zawn
This route provides the easiest way back to the access route at high tide. If you’ve a spare rope it can be left in place when approaching the main crag.

The Tide is High – F4
Follow the easiest line, and the bolts, up the slab.
F.A. Keith Greenland and Keith Noyes (Jan 2003)

Main Crag
Climbs are described left to right, starting at a large corner to the right of a big smooth wall (plenty of first ascent opportunities for those brave enough to risk the loose bands of rock near the top).

1 – Lucky Man – F6a**
Climbs the large open corner to a layback crack, which is followed to the lower off. Probably the best climb on the crag so far. Named after Willy Muirhead who attempted to climb the route on trad before it had been cleaned of loose rock and was lucky to escape with only a broken ankle.
F.A. Martin Lancaster and Keith Noyes (April 2003)

2 – Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magic – F6a+
Climb straight up the overlapping face with the detached pillar at your back. Crux comes at the third bolt. Step onto a wedged in boulder and then high step up using crimps and smears. Some more high steps and balance moves lead to a final awkward move over the lip to the belay ledge. (Shares chain anchor with Losing My Religion)
F.A. Keith Noyes and Paul Collis (Feb 2003)

3 – Losing My Religion – F5+
Start up the corner to an overhanging bulge and move right (crux) onto the face to get around the bulge. Resist the temptation to go up and left instead (the rock above is wedged into place and of questionable stability). Continue up the corner to another rest before the final layback moves to the belay ledge.
F.A. Keith Noyes, Willy Muirhead and Ron Yue (March 2003)

Rolling Stone Buttress

4 – Beggars Banquet – VS 4b
Same start as for Rolling Stones, but follow the left hand crack around the bulge. Crux is near the top where the crack disappears into a dusty sloper. (Shares chain anchor with Some Girls)
F.A. Keith Noyes and Ron Yue (Jan 2003)

5 – Rolling Stones – VS 4b
Start up the crack to a “Y” split under a bulge and follow the right hand crack up and around the bulge. The crux comes just after the crack narrows, but a couple of moves leads to easier ground and the anchors of Some Girls.
F.A. Keith Noyes and Ron Yue (Jan 2003)

6 – Some Girls – F6a+
Starts straight up the overhanging bulge to the left of the arete. The crux comes between the second the third bolts and the rest of the climb offers similarly sustained crimping and high stepping on the face.
F.A. Keith Noyes and Ron Yue (Jan 2003)

7 – Powderfinger – F7a**
Starts to the right and around the corner from Some Girls. Climb easily up past first 2 bolts as the climb get progressively thinner and steeper. Move right after the third bolt for a not obvious balance sequence (crux) to the 4th bolt. Make use of the arete as needed up past the 5th and 6th bolts (also tricky) before heading left to the last bolt and then onto a ledge.
Equipped by and top roped by Keith Noyes and Gary Yalung (2003)
F.F.A Colin Spark (2003)

8 – The Crunge – 6B top rope boulder problem.
Climb the obvious, easy way up onto the large boulder opposite the crag. Set a top rope from the bolt anchors on top of the boulder and climb the steep, south face of the boulder.
F.A. Keith Noyes and Ron Yue (2003)