General

A fine set of boulders on very high friction rock. This area has (or used to have) the added bonus of a stunning views out over Ting Kau / Tsing Ma bridge and Lantau Island on a clear day.

Note: Recent visits in Dec 2021 confirmed that much of this area has been reclaimed by nature (or more accurately, an aggressive government forestation programme ) and is now dense forest where there was once open shrub land around the blocs. Clearance at the base of the Rocky Bloc, Lurcher Boulder, The Prow and Matterhorn Boulder (partial) has been undertaken to render these climbable again (see video below for ref), but access paths remain quite overgrown and anyone visiting should pack those gardening tools to help further clean things back out again and turn it back to the great user-friendly area it once was…

Approach

Follow the approach to Ha Fa Shan until the shelter at the top of the hill. From here turn left and follow the Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail up the gently sloping hillside until the hill runs out, by a small collection of boulders and a pagoda on the left. Continue straight on, following a dirt path that contours around the left side of the ridge. Follow this path, at roughly the same level, until you reach the far side of the spur and the boulders and the top of the Big Buttress.

As of Dec 2021, the best approach from this point is to rock hop down the boulders to the right (north) of the Big Buttress, about 10 m back east from the top of the buttress. This brings you quite quickly and easily to The Prow bloc. From here things get a bit more vegetated, with the Fist Crack Boulders accessible via a short bush whack to the north and the Rocky Bloc and Lurcher Boulder accessible by heading a short distance west from The Prow, moving between the various boulders breaking up the vegetation density.

Hopefully the area will see  bit more traffic in the 2021/22 season and the trails will start to open up once again.

Routes

Note: All topo shots are from 2003/04. Expect significantly more vegetation around them these days.

Upper Boulders

1) The Arete V0
The rightwards sloping arête.

2) Blunt Rib V1
The short blunt rib on the right edge of the boulder.

Mal’s Rib

1) Rubber Ball ** V3
Bounce up to gain the small ledge. Mantle this and climb the arête above.

2) Mal’s Rib *** V3
The tricky right arête of the block.

Fist Crack

1) The Jugs * V0
Romp up the large holds on the left side of the face.

2) Leaning Groove V0
The right trending groove line.

3) Fist Crack V1
Attack the rough fist sized crack giving yourself a big pat on the back if you escape unbloodied!

The Prow Blocs

1) Devils Advocate (sds) ** V4
The small overhang on the block just behind Rugosity Slab proves an excellent problem on good but spaced holds. Start at a good crimp on the arête and, if you can reach it, a good side pull way out left.

2) Rugosity Slab * V0
Follow an assortment of protrusions up the slab, just left of centre.

3) The Prow ** V1
Follow the short prow on good but spaced holds.

4) King of the Swingers (sds) * V6
A some what strange extension to The Prow. Start sat on the sloping shelf and, using slopers above and the arete, swing up to the start of The Prow.

5) The Scoop  VB
Ascend the scoop.

The Lurcher Bloc

1) Hanging Crack * V1
Reach up for the hanging crack and climb this.

2) Lurcher ** V2
Pull onto the slab on positive holds and then make a long stretch for the rounded top.

3) Blind Crack * V2
The rightwards trending crack. Harder than it looks.

4) Bottle Slab *** V4
The technical thin slab on the right end of the boulder.

Rocky Bloc

1) The Left Edge (sds) * V7
The left arete of the narrow pinnacle has a fierce sit start, leading to an easier upper part.

2) Pinnacle (sds) * V1
The right arete of the pinnacle.

3) Slide Away ** V4
The steep wall and arete lead to a somewhat precarious finish.

4) Rocky Road *** V6
The left hand arête of the wall on its right hand side gives a technical, intimidating and excellent line.

5) The Undercling *** V5
Start on the undercling and reach up for the slanting crack above. Continue up via flat holds on the small shelf before making a precarious reach right into the crack to finish.

6) The Overlap ** V3
A direct line through the overlap via a hanging flake.

7) Hanging Slab *** V0
The right end of the overlap.

Ahdont on The Overlap (V3). Photo: Stuart Millis

Hand Crack Bloc

1) Grooved Arete V2
The groove and arete on the left side of the face.

2) Zen ** V4
To the left of the crack is a thin wall with a hollow flake near its top. Climb the wall avoiding all holds in the crack. Thin and reachy.

3) Hand Crack ** V0
The fist sized crack line.

4) Ramp Direct V1
The hanging ramp to the right of the fist crack.

5) Bottled Slab * V0
The delicate slab.

6) The Crack * VB
Layback the wide slabby crack.

7) The Three Step VB
The short stepped arête.

Slate Wall

1) Slate Wall * V3
Thin moves on small crimps and side pulls lead up the short wall.

2) Short Smart Wall * V2
Start directly beneath the snapped flake and move up to this before lunging for the top.

Big Buttress Boulders

1) Pebble Wall V2
The thin seam leads to a nerve wracking finish a long way above the floor.

2) Ritchies Crack ** VB
The relatively straightforward, but exposed, crack.

3) Ballards Groove * V0
The thin and exposed groove right of the wide chimney.

4) Overhanging Crack V2
Tackle the small overhang via the obvious crack.

The Matterhorn Boulder

1) Hornli Ridge VB
The left arete of the triangular face.

2) Matterhorn * VB
The centre of the face.

3) Horny Matter VB
The right arete.

4) Back Passage ** V2
The large horizontal roof provides a slightly disappointingly straightforward problem, until the final mantle that is.

5) Master Blaster V1
Starting on holds on the lip, reach back for reasonable holds and mantle. The sit start remains a project.

6) Part II (sds) ** V5
The traverse of the sloping shelf to the right side of the block.

7) Herbicide (sds) *** V3
Follow the flake up the steep wall to the lip. Finish direct.