A fine set of boulders on very high friction rock. This area has the added bonus of a stunning views out over Ting Kau / Tsing Ma bridge and Lantau Island on a clear day.
Note: Recent reports from 2020 indicate that, due to an extensive period of neglect, this area has largely been lost back to nature and is now pretty much forest where there was once open shrub land around the blocs. A pretty extensive devegetation exercise is likely to be needed to render most things climbable again so be sure to pack those gardening tools if you plan on heading here…
Shek Lung Kung Boulders (PDF Download)
Follow the approach to Ha Fa Shan until the shelter at the top of the hill. From here turn left and follow a dirt path around a small knoll. Continue along the concreted path ahead up the gently sloping hillside. Follow the path up the hillside until its very end, by a small collection of boulders on the left. Continue straight on, following a dirt path that contours around the lefthand side of the ridge in front. Follow this path, at roughly the same level, until you reach the far side of the spur and the boulders.
The Lower Boulders
(1) V1 * Reach up for the hanging crack and climb this.
(2) V2 ** Lurcher. Pull onto the slab on positive holds and then make a long stretch for the rounded top.
(3) V2 * Blind Crack. The rightwards trending crack. Harder than it looks.
(4) V4 *** Bottle Slab. The technical thin slab on the right end of the boulder.
(1) V7 * The lefthand arete of the narrow pinnacle.
(2) V1 * (sds) The right arete of the pinnacle.
(3) V4 ** Slide Away. The steep wall and arete lead to a somewhat precarious finish.
(4) V6 *** Rocky Road. The lefthand arete of the wall on its righthand side.
(5) V5 *** The Undercling. Start on the undercling and reach up for the slanting crack above. Continue up via flat holds on the small shelf before making a precarious reach right into the crack to finish.
(6) V3 ** The Overlap. A direct line through the overlap via a hanging flake.
(7) V0 – 5a *** Hanging Slab. The righthand end of the overlap.
(1) V2 The groove and arete on the left side of the face.
(2) V4 ** Zen. To the left of the crack is a thin wall with a hollow flake near its top. Climb the wall avoiding all holds in the crack. Thin and reachy.
(3) V0 – 5a ** Hand Crack. The fist sized crack line.
(4) V1 Ramp Direct. The hanging ramp to the right of the fist crack.
(5) V0 – 5a * Bottle Slab. The delicate slab.
(6) VB – 4c * The Crack. Layback the wide slabby crack.
(7) VB – 4c The Three Steps. The short stepped arete.
(1) V3 * Slate Wall. Thin moves on small crimps and side pulls lead up the short wall.
(2) V2 * Short Smart Wall. Start directly beneath the snapped flake and move up to this before lunging for the top.
Big Buttress Boulders
(1) V2 Pebble Wall. The thin seam leads to a nerve wracking finish a long way above the floor.
(2) VB – 4b ** Ritchies Crack. The relatively sraightforward, but exposed, crack.
(3) V0 – 5a * Ballards Groove. The thin and exposed groove right of the wide chimney.
(4) V2 Overhanging Crack. Tackle the small overhang via the obvious crack.
(1) V0 – 5a * Rugosity Slab. Follow an assortment of protrusions up the slab, just left of centre.
(2) V6 ** The Prow (sds). After a hard start, follow the short prow on good but spaced holds. The stand start is V1.
(3) V6 * King of the Swingers (sds). A some what strange extension to The Prow. Start sat on the sloping shelf and, using slopers above and the arete, swing up to the start of The Prow.
(4) VB – 4b The Scoop. Ascend the scoop.
(5) V4 ** Devils Advocate (sds). The small overhang on the block just behind Rugosity Slab proves an excellent problem on good but spaced holds. Start at a good crimp on the arete and, if you can reach it, a good side pull way out left.
The Upper Boulders
(1) V0 – 5a * The Jugs. Romp up the large holds on the left side of the face.
(2) V0 – 5a Leaning Groove. The right trending groove line.
(3) V1 Fist Crack. Attack the rough fist sized crack giving yourself a big pat on the back if you escape unbloodied!
(1) V3 *** Mal’s Rib. The tricky righthand arete of the block.
(2) V3 ** Rubber Ball. Bounce up to gain the small ledge. Mantle this and climb the arete above.
(1) V0 – 4b The Arete. The rightwards sloping arete.
(2) V1 Blunt Rib. The short blunt rib on the right edge of the boulder.
The Matterhorn Boulder
(1) VB – 4a The left arete of the triangular face.
(2) VB – 4c * Matterhorn. The centre of the face.
(3) VB – 4b The right arete.
(4) V2 ** Back Passage. The large horizontal roof provides a slightly disapointingly straightforward problem, until the final mantle that is.
(1) V1 Master Blaster. Starting on holds on the lip, reach back for reasonable holds and mantle. The sit start remains a project.
(2) V5 ** Part II (sds). The traverse of the sloping shelf to the right side of the block.
(3) V3 *** Herbicide (sds). Follow the flake up the steep wall to the lip. Finish direct.