General
A small collection of boulder problems on the blocs scattered along the coastline of Ngan Wan (Silver Bay), located just to the south of the Cape Collinson Lighthouse.
Access
Access to Ngan Wan is via a very steep and slightly sketchy access path that weaves down the hillside between rock outcrops and the massive landslide scar. This trail is reached from a dirt trail opposite Lamppost #39 on the Dragon Trail, which is about 250m along the trail from both Siu Sai Wan and Cape Collinson Rest Garden (you can get to this point using the 18M Green Minibus from Chai Wan MTR).
Extreme caution should be exercised on the approach, especially when carrying a bulky bouldering mat, as fall from the path would have very serious consequences.
Problems
The majority of the problems are located on the large bloc at the bottom of the main access trail, with several additional problems on the small blocs surrounding this as well as some more lines on the tidal bloc located right on (and often in) the shoreline.
1) Ag (sds) ** V1
Climb in to the back of the roof the a good jug low down. Lock in a good heel hook near this and then crank your way through the small roof above. Short but fun.
2) Ngan (sds) * V2
Start matched on the sloping jug on the lip, pull through the roof and then finish easily up the slab above.
3) J-Direct (sds) * V2
Start at two good holds at the left side of the wall low down, beneath the main roof. Pull directly through the bulges above these to finish.
4) Holy Goat (sds) ** V3
Start matched on the good jug beneath the left side of the main roof. Make a big move out right from this to a positive crimp. Continue up and left through the stepped roof above to finish.
5) S-Express (sds) ** V4
Sit start on the small crimp on the lip and poorer holds below (the short will need to stack pads). Lift off and reach left for the good crimp on Holy Goat, before continuing through the roof to the right of that line to gain positive jugs above the lip.
6) Bowsprit *** V8
The main overhanging prow of the bloc, starting at opposing holds on either side at about chest height. A testing and awesome line that simply cries out to be climbed.
7) Silver Surfer *** (Project)
Start with a high left crimp (may need pad stacking to reach) and a low right side pull / pinch. Past your feet on near the right hand and crank up for positive, but small, side pulls up and right. From here, pop for the top.
8) Double or Nothing ** V3
Start matched on the opposing gastons high on the wall. Pull on, launch up and left for a positive hold and then finish above that.
9) Silver Hawk (sds) ** V3
Start sat using a crimp (left) and gaston (right). Launch up and right from these to gain the good holds on the left side of the juggy ledge. From here, stay left and work your way up crimps side pulls before eventually stepping on the ledge to finish when you reach the slopey top out holds.
10) Yayoi ** V1
Start matched on the good juggy ledge and climb the shallow groove directly above this to a slightly rounded finish.
11) Silver Spoon (sds) ** V3
Sit start using side pulls on either side of the bulge directly beneath the good ledge. Pull on (hint: heel hooking will help), slap up and right for a positive side pull before grasping the thank god holds on the ledge. Finish as for the stand start.
12) Silver Bullet * V3
From matched on the juggy ledge, launch out right to crimps before tackling the bulging wall above to finish.
13) Silver Bullet (sds) ** V4
Add the sds of Silver Spoon to Silver Bullet for a quality little line.
14) Silver Lining (sds) ** V5
Sit start at the large sloping ledge low down. Pull powerfully to a sloping ledge above these before continuing up the wall via a left-wards trending diagonal line on small crimps to join the finish of Silver Bullet.
15) The Wave (sds) * V5
Sit start at the large sloping ledge low down. Make a powerful move up to the next slopey ledge before using tiny crimps up and right of this to enable another big throw out right to positive more jugs. Finish directly above these.
16) Toe Trickery (sds) ** V1
Start matched on side pull jugs at the right end of the lip of the low overhang. Pull up from these to the good ledge, which is then followed left across the lip to eventually join and finish as for Silver Bullet.
1) Tapo Hole * V0
Climb the middle of the wall on the block behind the main boulder via pockets and crimps.
1) ** V2
The middle bloc of the cluster pictured above has a sds line starting in the corner with the adjacent bloc, then trending out right to the ledge and a direct finish.
Tidal Blocs
The Tidal Blocs are located just to the northwest of the Silver Bay Bloc and, as the name suggests, have bases that are heavily affected by tides and waves. For this reason the blocs tend to become more accessible during the summer months, when the swell direction becomes more favourable.
1) Gin Tama (sds) * V6
Start matched on small crimps in the cave on the left side of the wall, beneath the grooved wall. Make powerful moves out through the roof via more small crimps to gain reasonable holds out left on the lip. Utilising these and a pocket out right, make powerful throw to the good jug before ambling up the slab above.
2) Zig * V0
Climb the left side of the slab, starting just to the right of the entrance to the Gin Tama cave.
3) Zag* V0
Climb the centre of the slabby wall, starting at a shallow groove.
4) Zog * V0
Climb the right side of the slab, starting at the left edge of the small roof.
The back side of the bloc has fine wall that looks to have potential for several relatively hard highball lines. However, there is only typically about a 1-hour window of dry landings either side of high tide.
