Silver Bay Blocs

General

A small collection of boulder problems on the blocs scattered along the coastline of Ngan Wan (Silver Bay), located just to the south of the Cape Collinson Lighthouse.

Access

Access to Ngan Wan is via a very steep and slightly sketchy access path that weaves down the hillside between rock outcrops and the massive landslide scar. This trail is reached from a dirt trail opposite Lamppost #39 on the Dragon Trail, which is about 250m along the trail from both Siu Sai Wan and Cape Collinson Rest Garden (you can get to this point using the 18M Green Minibus from Chai Wan MTR).

Extreme caution should be exercised on the approach, especially when carrying a bulky bouldering mat, as fall from the path would have very serious consequences.

Problems

The majority of the problems are located on the large bloc at the bottom of the main access trail, with several additional problems on the small blocs surrounding this as well as some more lines on the tidal bloc located right on (and often in) the shoreline.

1) Ag (sds) ** V1
Climb in to the back of the roof the a good jug low down. Lock in a good heel hook near this and then crank your way through the small roof above. Short but fun.

2) Ngan (sds) * V2
Start matched on the sloping jug on the lip, pull through the roof and then finish easily up the slab above.

3) J-Direct (sds) * V2
Start at two good holds at the left side of the wall low down, beneath the main roof. Pull directly through the bulges above these to finish.

4) Joanna’s Traverse (sds) ** V3
Start matched on the good jug beneath the left side of the main roof. Make a big move out right from this to a positive crimp. Continue up and left through the stepped roof above to finish.

5) (sds) ?
A line starting on the small crimp on the lip and poorer holds below seems possible, but may require pad stacking for those with shorter arms to just reach the start..

6) *** V7/8?
The main overhanging prow of the bloc, starting at opposing holds on either side low down.

7) Silver Surfer *** V6?
Start with a high left crimp (may need pad stacking to reach) and a low right side pull / pinch. Past your feet on near the right hand and crank up for positive, but small, side pulls up and right. From here, pop for the top.

8) Double or Nothing ** V3
Start matched on the opposing gastons high on the wall. Pull on, launch up and left for a positive hold and then finish above that.

9) (sds) V?
Start sat using a small crimp (left) and gaston (right). Climb the wall above these, trending right to eventually gain some features that more resemble ‘holds’ in the conventional sense of the word…

10) Silver Spoon ** V1
Start matched on the good juggy ledge and climb the shallow groove directly above this to a slightly rounded finish.

11) Silver Spoon (sds) ** V3
Sit start using side pulls on either side of the bulge directly beneath the good ledge. Pull on (hint: heel hooking will help), slap up and right for a positive side pull before grasping the thank god holds on the ledge. Finish as for the stand start.

12) Silver Tongued * V3
From matched on the juggy ledge launch out right to crimps before tackling the bulging wall above to finish.

13) Silver Tongued (sds) ** V4
The sit start to Problem #12

14) (sds) ** V6
Sit start at the large sloping hold/pinch and small crimp low down. Pull powerfully to a sloping ledge above these before continuing up the wall via a left-wards trending diagonal line.

15 (sds) * V5
Sit start at the large sloping hold/pinch and small crimp low down. Make a powerful move up and right to another slopey ledge before using various holds left of this to enable another big throw out right to positive jugs. Finish directly above these.

16) Toe Trickery (sds) **
Start matched on sloping jugs at the right end of the lip of the low overhang. Pull on and make a left-wards trending traverse across the lip to eventually join and finish as for Problem #14.

1) VB
Climb the middle of the wall on the block behind the main boulder via pockets and crimps.

2)

1) ** V2
The middle bloc of the cluster pictured above has a sds line starting in the corner with the adjacent bloc, then trending out right to the ledge and a direct finish.