From the roundabout continue along Chung Hom Kok Road to its end, 25 minutes walk. Follow the steps at the end of the road down to the coastline and make a somewhat airy scramble leftwards to your chosen area (the easiest line is higher up just in the grass).
(1) V1 * 100ft Traverse.
A left to right traverse of the long wall, following a series of horizontal breaks.
(2) VB **
Follow a line of horizontal breaks up the short wall at the left end of the crag.
Start at the vertical flake line and climb the wall above, finishing up the short groove.
The vertical crack line at the right end of the wall.
An abundance of other problems / micro routes have also been climbed on this wall but, due to the lack of ‘distinct lines’, are not recorded in this guide. A little creativity should enable most climbers to find these problems.
The Long Wall Block
1) V3 *** Alien.
Climb through the lip of the cave to a worrying finish above the slanting crack.
2) V7 *** Painful Birth
Start sat on the back wall of the cave with a good, but small, slot for your left hand and positive holds in the roof crack with your right. From here either campus your way out along the crack (being careful not to dab the wall behind you) or learn some technique and stylishly work your way out with a variety of toe / heel hooks to eventually join the start holds of Alien. Finish up this.
3) V3 ** Fairy Steps.
From the lowest point on the slab make a rising left traverse to join a thin crack. Follow this to the top with some trepidation.
The short groove at the right end of the face.
1) V3 ** Versus (sds).
Start on the positive flake and rock left to good holds. Finish directly above.
2) V8 ** Gut Solo
The terrifying groove on the corner of this face and the Predator face. If you value your ankles, bring lots of mats as its high and hard.
3) Predator *** V6
From reasonable holds in the horizontal break, rock out right to the arete. From here a hard series of moves (avoiding all holds left of the break) may or may not bring the good holds at the top.
4) Predator (sds) *** V8
Start with one hand in the crack on the left of the face and the other on the right arete. Pull up (from sitting) and paste your feet somewhere (the bendy will be able to do this before their bum leaves the floor!). Make some very hard moves into the horizontal break and finish as for Predator.
This is another of those problems requiring a proper sit start (e.g. the very last thing to leave the floor is your butt) for a proper send. If either of your feet are still on the floor and you’re not sitting, you haven’t sent it! This includes stepping down and left to start if your butt isn’t still on the ground…
3a) Predator (Left) ** V4
Start as for Predator, but move up using both the right arete as well as some side pulls on the left of the break too. Notably easier (and more logical) than the original line, which avoided everything out left due to hold blindness…
3b) Predator (Left) (sds) ** V6
As above but making the same sit start as Predator (sds) and then including the lefthand holds above the break.
5) Rock on Road (sds) *** V9
Start even lower down! Climb into the cave and start on the two lowest slots. Hard moves out on reasonable holds leads to a desperate struggle to exit the cave and get on to Predator (sds) (righthand version). Finish up this.