From the roundabout continue along Chung Hom Kok Road to its end, 25 minutes walk. Follow the steps at the end of the road down to the coastline and make a somewhat airy scramble leftwards to your chosen area (the easiest line is higher up just in the grass).
The Long Wall
1) 100ft Traverse * V1
A left to right traverse of the long wall, following a series of horizontal breaks.
2) Seaside Break ** VB
Follow a line of horizontal breaks up the short wall at the left end of the crag.
3) Tall Wall V1
Start at the vertical flake line and climb the wall above, finishing up the short groove.
4) Taller Wall V1
The vertical crack line at the right end of the wall.
5) Smaller Blank Wall V2
The right side of the wall is somewhat blanker than the other established lines, making for a slightly more worrying excursion than its neighbours.
An abundance of other problems / micro routes have also been climbed on this wall but, due to the lack of ‘distinct lines’, are not recorded in this guide. A little creativity should enable most climbers to find these problems.
1) V3 *** Alien.
Climb through the lip of the cave to a worrying finish above the slanting crack.
2) V7 *** Painful Birth
Start sat on the back wall of the cave with a good, but small, slot for your left hand and positive holds in the roof crack with your right. From here either campus your way out along the crack (being careful not to dab the wall behind you) or learn some technique and stylishly work your way out with a variety of toe / heel hooks to eventually join the start holds of Alien. Finish up this.
Note: A reminder for those going footless at the start, if you so much as brushed the wall behind you then it was a dab and your ‘send’ was about as ethical and valid as the Hong Kong election process…
3) V3 ** Fairy Steps.
From the lowest point on the slab make a rising left traverse to join a thin crack. Follow this to the top with some trepidation.
4) Cop Out VB
The short groove at the right end of the face.
5) V3 ** Versus (sds).
Start on the positive flake and rock left to good holds. Finish directly above.
6) V8 ** Gut Solo
The terrifying groove on the corner of this face and the Predator face. If you value your ankles, bring lots of mats as its high and hard.
7) Predator *** V5
Start matched in the horizontal break splitting the wall at chest height. Pull on and tackle the wall above using an assortment of side pulls, crimps, toe/heel hooks and whatever else works for you to be able to gain the thank god jug at the top.
8) Predator (sds) *** V7
The sit start to Predator gives a fine a testing extension. Sit start at the mouth of the cave by fridge hugging the narrow wall. Pull up from sitting and paste your feet somewhere (the bendy will be able to do this before their bum leaves the floor!) and make difficult moves into the horizontal break. Finish as for Predator. This is another of those problems requiring a proper sit start (e.g. the very last thing to leave the floor is your butt) for a proper send. If either of your feet are still on the floor and you’re not sitting, you haven’t sent it!
The above two problems were originally climbed just using the right arête of the wall and no hand/feet contact on the crack/arête out left at all (see video above). Although slightly harder, past ascents have shown this to be a bit contrived so grades have been rationalised to avoid excessive need for rules. Basically, anything you can pull on whilst still following the line is fair game.
9) Rock on Road (sds) *** V9
Start even lower down! Climb into the cave and start on the two lowest slots. Hard moves out on reasonable holds (being careful not to dab on the small bloc behind you) leads to a desperate struggle to exit the cave and get on to the start of Predator. Finish up this.
10) One Step to Heaven (sds) * V4
Start squeezing the arêtes on either side of the small block and make a single difficult move to the top.