General

Devil’s Peak comprises several outcrops of moderately angled granite slabs on the hillside to the east of Yau Tong, guaranteed to test your technique and smearing ability. Three main areas have been developed to-date, namely the Main Wall, The Lost World and Lingnan Slabs.

Warning

In an what they claim as moves to protect and safeguard climbers (nothing to do with wanting to prevent anti-govt banners being hung…), the muppets at the HKPF have recently vandalized most of the bolts on the Main Wall and Lost World either by chopping them or filling them with epoxy.  This has rendered most of the routes on these walls unsafe for the time being.

See here for more details

Access

Access to the slab is easy. From Yau Tong MTR station exit A2 walk straight ahead to the first intersection and turn left. Proceed past the large roundabout to a road on the right that leads up the mountainside towards the Chinese Cemetery. Walk up this for about 10 minutes until coming to a flight of stairs on the left-hand side of the road. This is the Wilson Trail and is well marked with signs. Follow the Wilson Trail to the top of the obvious slabs.

Main Wall: A short abseil from the railing of the Wilson Trail provides access to the bottom of the headwall. Alternatively, it is also possible to scramble around the left-hand side of the headwall when facing the harbor. From the base of the headwall, a short scramble down a faint path leads to the top of the main slab. From here it is necessary to abseil down the route of “Special Forces” to the bottom of the main slab. A bolt anchor is available for this abseil, and a single rope is just long enough.

Lost World: It’s a five minute walk from the Main Wall to get to The Lost World. Look for a trail in the drainage just below the Honorable Discharge detached arch. Follow the drainage briefly down, then up and to the right. Hard left, and continue down to a large boulder with a platform just below it. There is a bolted anchor on your left (when looking out from the cliff), rappel to the base. A 60 meter rope is needed to reach the ground. As an alternate approach/exit, there is a trail just north from the Lost World. Walk towards the pillar, and the trail will take you to the paved walking path, just past the Main Wall approach.

Alternatively, if headed straight here from the road it’s better to approach directly as follows. Walk up the cemetery road for about five minutes.  Shortly past the first roofed pavilion, you will see a triple set of stairs heading steeply up the slope on the opposite side.

At the top of the stairs, turn left on a good trail.  Walk on the level trail, the crag will pass in and out of view.  After roughly five minutes, you should be right below the wall.  Turn right at the cairns, and you will be at the right side of the wall

Routes

Main Wall

(1) Old Man’s War  – F6a
Left of Before the Battle. Starts on the platform on the left side of the wall, next to the other warm-up routes. Move up the low-angle slab to the arête, finishing on the face to the left side.
F.A. Brian Boyd and Jack Marr (2015) 

(2) Before the Battle – F4
Well protected climbing, a good introductory lead with a short crux.
FA: Francis Haden, Sophia Mendelsohn, Jonathan Landesman, Donna Kwok (2012)

(3) Before the War – F5
Well protected climbing, a good introductory lead with a short crux.
FA: Francis Haden, Sophia Mendelsohn, Jonathan Landesman, Donna Kwok (2012)

(4) Honorable Discharge – F5
Start by under-clinging and then mantling up onto the right-hand side of the large detached arch at the far left of the crag. This is loose and care should be taken. Alternatively, the arch can also be climbed on the left-hand side. From the top of the arch, start with a series of decent side pulls until a thin move right at the second bolt leads to a shallow hole / dish. From here continue straight up over progressively easier ground to the anchors. A bit run out at the top but can be made better by heading left or right to adjacent routes.
F.A. Nick Smith, Alain Boulanger (2007)

(5) Sympathy for the Devil – F6a
Between Honorable Discharge and Special Forces. Start as for Special Forces. Make a bouldery move up and left to the ledge. Continue up the thin face above. After the sixth bolt, move either left or right to finish on one of the adjacent routes.
F.A. Brian Boyd Ian Smith, and Charley Kelly (2014)

(6) Special Forces – F6a ***
Start from the clearing just right of the large detached arch. The route follows a direct line straight up to the anchors via a series of small dishes and requires application of various “special forces” – primarily friction.
F.A. Nick Smith, Alain Boulanger (2007)

(7) Over the Top – F5
Start right of Special Forces next to several iron bars embedded into the base of the slab. Using the bars for aid, step up to clip the first bolt the step back down and climb up and to the right into a series of rightward trending scoops that lead into the large hole. Exit the hole on the right, crossing over a crack and move up towards the black streak, which is followed to the anchors.
F.A: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2012)

(8) Slabasaurus Rex – F6b
Left of Battle of the Bulge.  Start at the WII drill holes/rebar. Move up the seam until it is possible to move right onto the friction slab. Four bolts lead to the large hole. Finish on Over the Top or Battle of the Bulge.
F.A. Brian Boyd Ian Smith, and Charley Kelly, (2014)

(9) Battle Of The Bulge – F6b *
Test the stickiness of your climbing shoe rubber as you battle gravity on the steep lower section of this route, which begins about 5 meters right and downhill from “Special Forces”. Smear with difficulty diagonally up and left past three bolts until the angle lessens and easier ground leads to a large hole in the middle of the face. Interesting moves get you out of the hole and onto the slab above. For maximum enjoyment continue smearing directly up the slab, or reach to the right and use the crack as an easier alternative.
F.A. Nick Smith, Alain Boulanger (2007)

(10) Not The Slightest Chance – F6a **
Winston Churchill said there was “not the slightest chance” of defending Hong Kong against the Japanese in World War II. Hopefully, this climb may prove to be an easier task. Start below a small overhang at a pocket. Climb the steep face directly up to and over the tiny overlap. Then continue up and right to a bolt anchor near the large alcove. Belay here, or proceed to the top of the crag via the upper portion of “A Wing And A Prayer”.
F.A. Nick Smith, Joe Gray (2007)

(11) To Hell And Back – F6a
A scarier variation to “Not The Slightest Chance”. Climb the grooves / cracks beginning two meters right of “Not The Slightest Chance”. Follow these diagonally up and left until they merge with Not The Slightest Chance at the small overhang. Delicate moves between the first and second bolt. Somewhat superseded by Roland… which takes a more logical and complete line.
F.A. Nick Smith, Austin Smith (2007)

(12) Roland the Headless Hilti Gunner – F6a+
Same start as To Hell and Back. To Hell and Back is a PG13/R-ish alternate start to Not the Slightest Chance. Roland shares the same start, but continues up and right, moving through the right side of the overlap. Finish at the mid-height anchors shared by several routes. 
F.A. Brian Boyd Ian Smith, and Jack Marr (2015)

(13) Balance of Power – F6a
There is a large obvious diagonal crack splitting the slabs. This crack is mostly an easy scramble. However, this climb tackles the bottom portion of the crack, which is more a set of shallow, rounded grooves. A few difficult moves are required to get through this section and gain access to the easier crack above. Continue up the easy crack to join “Not The Slightest Chance”. Or, for a little more excitement, run it out up and right to join “A Wing And A Prayer”.
F.A. Joe Gray, Nick Smith (2007)

(14) A Wing and a Prayer – F6c *
About 5 metres right and downhill from “Balance Of Power” is a steep shallow groove. Climb this to anchors at the large alcove in the middle of the slab. End here or continue up the easy second pitch to the top of the slab. Praying may not help, but you will definitely need faith in your shoes.
F.A. Nick Smith, Austin Smith (2007)

(15) Gin Drinker’s Line – F6a+ **
Start as for “A Wing And A Prayer” but move right onto a large ledge. Climb up onto an obvious flake, clip the first bolt and continue traversing delicately up and right using friction and small slopers until you are able to pull up onto the large ramp leading to the alcove in the middle of the slab. Scramble up this and then ascend the wall of the alcove diagonally up and left until joining with the upper portion of “A Wing And A Prayer”. Follow this to the anchors.
F.A. Nick Smith, Joe Gray (2007)

(16) Rajputs Remembered – F6a+
Follow Gin Drinkers Line to the large ramp but at a flake continue straight up the slab above to the anchor atop Public Execution. A 90m rope is required to lower from the anchor down to the ground.
F.A: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2012)

(17) Public Execution – F4+ **
Near the right-hand side of the slab is a faint corner with a seam. The seam is shallow, smooth, and rounded and the rock is rather steep and friable – adding to the excitement. A fun and direct line. Begin by scrambling up onto a ledge at the far right-hand side of the slab – just before the point where passage is blocked by the jungle. Continue scrambling carefully up to the first bolt about 8 meters above the ground.
F.A. Joe Gray, Nick Smith (2007)

(18) With a Knife at a Gun Fight – HS
Scramble up as for Public Execution, but traverse farther to the right to reach a crack system separating the left and right portions of the Main Slab. This is a few meters right of Public Execution. Insecure protection is possible using cams in the flaring shallow cracks. Just before the grassy ledge is reached, climb up onto the arête to the left (just above the large loose boulder) and follow Public Execution to the top. Do not climb on or under the large loose boulder as it (and some large flakes under it) are completely detached and adhering to the surface of the slab by friction only.
F.A. Joe Gray, Nick Smith (2007)The next route is located on the buttress right of ‘With a Knife at a Gun Fight’. This line is best accessed by abseiling in from anchor at its top.

(19) Wave no White Flag – F4 **
An excellent, lengthy slab and recommended first lead. Access to the base of the route is gained by abseiling from the anchor atop Public Execution.
F.A: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2012)

Devil in a Girdle – F6a+ (not shown on Topo)
Starts on Balance of Power. What’s better than slab climbing? More slab climbing! Over 150’ of 5.9 and 5.10 moves, with equally exciting fall potential for the leader and follower. Start up the crack of Balance of Power. Cut left at the third bolt, then diagonal up past grey Fixe bolt to the large hole on Over the Top (another grey Fixe bolt here). Traverse across Special Forces and Sympathy for the Devil. Reverse and downclimb the step across on Honorable Discharge. Continue left on the low angle slab, finishing on the arête of Old Man’s War. Hanging belay from the anchors. Bring 20-ish draws, including several long slings
F.A: Brian Boyd & Birgitta Bjornsson

Two more long (30m) slab routes  have been established on the slabs at the southern end of Main Wall, both of which are accessed by abseil.  Do not access the anchors from the trail switchback seen it the photo. It’s very exposed. Head up the trail some more to the next level. Drop down through the brush and traverse a small ledge to the anchors.  Both routes start from a bolt belay above the Jungle.

(20) Crescent Moon F5
FA: B. Thong, Tony Wood. 23 February 2020

(21) Moonwalk F5
FA: Tony Wood et al.

Headwall 

A handful of short routes have been established on the headwall above the Main Wall of Devil’s Peak.

(1) Details not known

(2) Details not known

(3) Retreat From the Devils Peak – F5/6a
Companion route to Exit Strategy offering slightly harder climbing. Move left at the 6th bolt.
FA: Francis Haden, Sophia Mendelsohn, Tom Blackford, Jonathan Landesman, Donna Kwok (2012)

(4) Exit Strategy – F4+
The central line on the headwall. Large holds are available on the left-hand side of the bolts until a harder move is required to move back right at the third bolt. Climbing on the right-hand side of the bolts increases the difficulty significantly (F5+ / F6a).
FA: Nick Smith & Alain Boulanger (2007)

The Lost World

If you toprope from the rappel anchor, you will encounter absolutely evil rope drag. There is an intermediate anchor on The Unbearable Blankness of Being – use this if top roping any of the routes on the right side. 

(1) The Terror of Tiny Town – F6a 
Start at the left side of the wall, just right of a double rebar system. Hard starting moves, sustained climbing to the top. Five bolts to a two bolt anchor. FA: Brian Boyd and Linda Cheung, 2019 

(2) You Only Crimp Twice – F5
Starts right of the concrete-like texture. Follow a series of crimps and slopers, finishing on the Tiny Town anchor. Five bolts.
F.A: Brian Boyd, Linda Cheung, and Kesab Gurung (2019) 

(3) A Fistful of Slopers – F5
Starts between some rebar and the prominent seam. Work up and gradually left, finishing on the Tiny Town anchor. Six bolts.
F.A: Linda Cheung and Brian Boyd (2019)

(4) Rocky Horror Friction Show – F5
Start at the obvious flake. Climb the left-leaning seam until it fades, then move right up the face. Finishes on the right anchor. Seven bolts.
F.A: Brian Boyd and Linda Cheung (2019) 

(5) The Unbearable Blankness of Being – F6b
Starts at a series of scoops. Easy starting moves yield to small crimps and friction smears (see pic above). Seven bolts, grey bolt hangers. Shares the same last bolt with adjacent routes.
F.A: Brian Boyd and Linda Cheung (2019)

(6) Pulp Friction – F6a+
Starts to the right of a WWII drill hole and twisted rebar. Delicate moves off the ground. Expect progressively wider bolt spacing as the angle of the slab eases back. Eight bolts. F.A: Brian Boyd and Linda Cheung (2019)

(7) Indiana Jones and the Mantle of Doom – F6b
Starts below a right-facing block. Move up and mantle past the block to a sea of friction smears. Finish at the main rappel anchor. Eight or nine bolts.
F.A: Brian Boyd and Kesab Gurung (2019)

(8) Little Slab of Horrors – VS
Start at the crack on the right side of the cliff. Thin moves through the lower section, continuing up the lower angle crack above. When the crack ends, step left and finish using the last bolt for Indiana Jones. Gear list: Small pieces to 1”. Runout in places.
F.A: Brian Boyd and Kesab Gurung (2019)