Tathong Point

General

A collection of naturally protected ‘trad’ climbing crags on the southern side of Tung Lung Chau, in the general proximity of the white cliffs that can readily be seen from the southeastern part of Hong Kong Island.

The lack of fixed protection (on the climbs themselves) provides a nice contrast to the sport climbing havens of Tech Wall and Sea Gully on the northern side of the island.

However, rock quality near the top of most crags degenerates notably so extreme care is required and belays can sometimes be hard to set up. For this reason, fixed anchors have been installed in some areas. It also means there is a strong need to wear a helmet to protect both yourself and your belayer.

A draft PDF guide for the area can be downloaded here.

Route Development

The development ethic for the crags on Tathong Point follows a distinctly traditional approach and fixed protection (i.e. bolts) should be avoided on the routes themselves. Indeed, much of the early development in the area has been attempted ground up and on-sight, occasionally resulting in some heart fluttering moments…

However, in recognition of the fact that the rock quality often degenerates and becomes highly weathered near the top of the cliffs and safe anchors for belaying / abseiling can be difficult to establish, the use of bolted abseil stations or lower off’s is regarded as acceptable. This also negates the need for long vegetated bushwhacks or decidedly dodgy down climbs to get back to the base of the crags.

Despite the use of fixed anchors on some routes, on climbs with poor protection or poor quality rock that may break and fail to hold a leader fall, fixed protection should still be avoided on the climb itself and the routes left to those who are happy to i) accept the risks that leading the climb brings, which will be reflected in the grades given; or ii) settle for a top rope ascent instead.

Stuart Millis attempting a ground up F.A. on ‘Happily Ever After’, shortly before erring on the side caution and requesting a rescue rope as both gear and rock above looked somewhat suspect… (He later engaged the skills of someone younger, stronger and braver to lead him up the route) Photo: Ron Roy

Grades

The climbs on Tat Hong have all been graded using the British trad grading system (see here for details). Whilst all attempts have been made to provide reasonable grades, some future calibration may be required given that:
– most routes were established on-sight, ground up and in the middle of summer;
– some of the crags suffer from loose rock, especially in the upper parts, meaning that holds will break and moves may become easier/more difficult over time;
– half the people establishing the routes weren’t that familiar with UK grades and the other half haven’t used them extensively for over 15-20 years, meaning our benchmarking might be a bit off!

Until the climbs have had a bit more traffic and better consensus is reached, treat all grades as a ‘rough-guide’ only and place more faith in your own knowledge and experience.

Access

The crags on Tathong Point are accessed from the first ferry pier reached on Tung Lung Chau (the one closest to the floating fish farms). Once off the ferry, follow the footpath to the end of the pier and up the stairs beyond this to the first noodle store. Turn right here and wal through the store following the concrete footpath, which after a short way joins the main path signposted towards the Ancient Rock Carving / Luk Keng Wan. Stay on this footpath for about 30 minutes until reaching the southern part of the island, where another path breaks off left to bring you down across a narrow bay and on to Tathong Point itself. Access to the various crags on Tathong Point from this location is just another 5 to 10 minutes depending on your chosen destination.

Alternatively (and oh so much nicer), speed boats can be arranged to take you around to Nam Tong Mei Ferry Pier from the first drop off point reached by the main ferry service. Trust me, its money well spent as the hike back at the end of the day can feel a bit of a b#tch…

Routes

In general (and unless otherwise indicated), most routes can be climbed with a standard trad rack (e.g. good selection of wires and full set of cams) and a 60m rope. Double ropes and multiple sets of wires in the small and mid-range together with small/micro cams will be a benefit for a number of the routes too.

Approximate route lengths (to the nearest 5m) are indicated in the descriptions. It should be noted that these are a best guess I we didn’t take tape measures with us. If in doubt, use common sense and experience to judge if your rope and rack are good enough (and always tie a knot in the nd of your rope just in case…)

The Neck

Bob Moseley on the first ascent of Neck Line (VS). Photo: Ron Roy

A small and easily accessible cliff on reasonably solid rock, but with lots of loose blocks and friable rock in cracks etc. due to the lack of traffic and many loose blocks above the cliff edge. The routes are typically between 15 to 30 m in length. Most routes finish at, or close to, fixed abseil anchors to facilitate safe and easy decent back down. Routes 11 and 12 can be affected by tide / swell conditions.

Be careful when at the top of the wall not to dislodge loose blocks.

1) Neck and Neck – HS (30m)
Head up the steps on the right side of clean face and through the obvious corner system up high. Exit corner and head toward anchors on a separate block above. Protection is sparse but may open up with more cleaning.
F.A. Bob Moseley & Cyrus Huang (2020)

2) Analemma – VS 4c (30m)
Follow the line of weakness up lower left side of face to the large ledge. Then enter the chimney system making liberal use of the face on your right for protection and holds. Exit the chimney and carefully move up to ledge with anchors at top of wall.
F.A. Tiktian Chan & Bob Moseley (2020)

3) Neck Line * VS 4b (30m)
Thin line up center of less-than-vertical face. Haul up the easy start onto small ledge at base of the crack system that completely bisects the face. Protection is consistent, although nearly all are small nuts with some requiring creative placements. The smallest of cams are a possibility near the top.
F.A. Bob Moseley & Tiktian Chan (2020)

4) Happily Ever After ** E2 5b (25m)
A serious undertaking that, despite relatively moderate climbing difficulty, has notable sections with questionable protection and rock quality.
On the right side of the slab is a steep entry wall split by some vertical cracks. Power through these to gain entry to the slab itself and some good foot ledges. Delicately climb the slab above to reach the overlap and some welcome gear, before romping up through this to gain another slab above. Place some gear (the last you’ll see for a while) before following the rightward trending seam up the wall to eventually reach the sanctuary of a large ledge and bolted rap station.
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming & Stuart Millis (2020)

5) Lucky Strike * VS 4b
The obvious central corner of the crag gives a pleasant outing on generally positive (but sometimes loose) holds. Gear is adequate, but sometimes has to be placed in suspect rock that may break so a degree of caution and experience is required, especially in the upper part of the climb. Abseil rings at top.
F.A. Stuart Millis & Bob Moseley (2020)

Stuart Millis on the first ascent of Lucky Strike. Photo: Bob Moseley

6) The Chimneyman ** HVS 5b (20m)
Follow the lower part of Lucky Strike to about half height, from where it is possible to get established in hanging chimney up and left. Squirm your way up this until it is possible to get established in a bridging position and more easy climbing brings the abseil anchor near the top of the wall.
F.A. Stuart Millis & Deno Hewson (2020)

7) Striking It Lucky ** VS 4c (20m)
An alternative, and better, start to Lucky Strike that climbs the open groove and slab to the right of the main corner crack line, joining the original climb in the upper part to finish up that.
F.A. Ron Roy, Tiktian Chan & Cyrus Huang (2020)

8) Popping the Cherry * VDiff (15m)
The obvious left-right trending crack and flake gives a good introductory trad route and is the easiest way to the top of the crag. A fixed set of abseil rings is present just beneath the top of the crag.
F.A. Kelvin Leung & Stuart Millis (2020)

Kelvin Leung popping his new routing cherry on the route of that name. Photo: Ron Roy

9) Cutting Corners – HVS 5a (15m)
Climb the well-defined corner to the roof, from where a leftwards traverse across the face brings you to the crack on Popping the Cherry, finish up this to the fixed anchor.
F.A. Ron Roy & Cyrus Huang (2020)

10) Cake * HS 4a (15m)
To the left of the stepped wall on the shoreline is an obvious crack and corner system leading vertically up. Climb these to the fixed anchor.
F.A. Deno Hewson & Kelvin Leung (2020)

11) Detonation Flake * VS 4c (15m)
Start up the corner beneath the small roof at about 4 m height. Navigate around the roof and up the wall above until a tricky series of mantles brings the large belay ledge and anchors at the top of the wall
F.A. Stuart Millis & Kelvin Leung (2020)

12) Hang In There * HVS 4c (15m)
Climb the left hand of the ‘open book’ grooves near the shoreline, staying true to the groove to reach the overlap at its top (poorly protected). Breach the overlap on its right side before continuing up the wall above, trending slightly left to stay away from Birthday Grooves.
F.A. Deno Hewson & Bob Moseley (2020)

13) Birthday Grooves ** VS 4c (15m)
Right on the shoreline (often just getting wet at the bottom) are two parallel grooves. Start up the left groove, climb this until it is possible to set onto a good foothold on the right arete and swing into the right groove. Climb the wall above to reach the large belay ledge and fixed anchor. Also possible to start more directly up the right groove when tide allows.
F.A. Stuart Millis & Kelvin Leung (2020)

Potential for some fun short boulder problems also exists on the undercut wall right of Birthday Grooves, with Beach Party (V2) being the obvious line and pick of the bunch.

The Nape

The large wall in the cove behind the Neck has decidedly better rock quality and provides some fine and long excursions up the main face, all be it with rather trickier access as the coastal route only becomes dry for a few hours either side of low tide. The crag has two obvious faces, imaginatively named the left and right walls, split by a large choosy corner.

Left Wall

Awaits proper exploration

Right Wall

At present there is only one fixed anchor at the top of this cliff so most climbs require trad anchors to be set up, quite often using slings around blocks quite far back from the edge. Descent for all routes is either via the temp fixed anchors at the top of Route #2 (to be replaced with glue in’s in more solid looking rock later on) or via a scramble down the ridge line itself. The cliff in this area is about 35m high so a 70m rope or double ropes are required if abseiling. Alternatively, there’s also an anchor at the top of Route #1 Pitch 1 that can be used to split the abseil.

1) Twice As Nice ** VS 4b, 4c (45m)
The route follows the first of the ‘clean’ crack systems to the right of the main choosy corner separating the left and right walls of the Nape. Takes w wide range of gear all the way from small wires up to #4 Camelots.
Pitch 1 (4b) 25m: Climb the first clean crack system on very good quality rock to a bolted belay station. A worthy pitch in its own right if you don’t fancy the harder stuff above.
Pitch 2 (4c) 18m: Continue up the cracks to the top of the wall. Belays can be set up quite far back from the cliff edge. Temporary abseil anchor is just to the right of the top of the climb at the top of Line #2.
F.A. Deno Hewson & Bob Moseley (2020)

2)
The obvious top-to-bottom crack line between Routes #1 and #3. Awaiting an ascent as the bottom part has been quite wet on most visits. Beware loose rock in the upper parts too.

3) Sunbathe Wall *** E2 5b (35m)
Follow the chimney/off-width to a small roof, which is circumvented on good holds to reach the ledge. Compose yourself on the ledge before attacking the open book corner system above to reach small ledges higher up. Finish straight up from these, before carefully treading left to reach the bolted anchors to the left.
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming & Martha Tin (2020)

4) Better with Age ** HVS 5a (35m)
Climb the flake and walls in the lower part of the crag to reach the two corner systems above, which are followed to the top. Like the first ascentionist, the rock and climbing get better and more interesting the higher [older] you go. Belay left at the bolted anchor.
F.A. Deno Hewson & Stuart Millis (2020)

5) Pretty on the Outside E2 5b (30m)
Scramble up the right trending ledges to reach a belay on the ledge at one-third height of the crag (A more direct ascent of the wall left of this will be possible on dry days). Attack the crack above the left side of the ledge, arranging what little gear (very small friends and wires) is available in the more solid parts of this. Poorly protected route on bad rock.
Not recommended.
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming & Chow Ming Yan (2020)

6) 16 and Counting * VS 4b (30m)
From a belay on the one-third ledge, climb the open book corner crack above on mostly good quality rock. Bring a long sling to fix a belay over a large horn set back from the top of the crag.
F.A. Bob Moseley & Renée Mullen (2020)

The Throat

Located just past The Neck (get it..) and on the far side of the spit connecting Tathong Point to Tung Lung Island. Can be accessed by an exciting little scramble around the coastline from the beach. The area includes a small overhanging wall plus a larger slab and corner just beyond these. Limited potential on the overhanging wall mostly.

1) Adam’s Apple (15m)
Scramble up the ledges on the right side of the crag to reach the obvious (slightly weathered) corner. Tip toe your way up this trying hard not to pull it down…
F.A. Not yet climbed as frankly, it looks a bit shit…

2) Spit – Open Project – Hard (10m)
The thin ‘crack (in the loosest sense of the word) splitting the overhanging wall is guaranteed to spit you off at least a few times. Probably in the E7 range for a clean ascent as the climbing is nails (>F8a) and the gear barely satisfactory….

3) Deep Throat ** E4 6b (10m)
The larger of the overhanging walls is split by an obvious layback crack that leads to a hanging corner in the upper part of the wall. From ledges on the left of the crack, arrange as much gear as possible before attacking the hard moves above to [hopefully] get established in the v-notch ledge above. Finish more easily above this.
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming (2020)

Dennis Kwok on the first ascent of Deep Throat (E4). Photo: Stuart Millis

4) Swallow * HVS 5b (10m)
The wall just left of Deep Throat is split by a disconnected series of short vertical cracks and small ledges. Climb these, avoiding the larger ledges further left.
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming & Chow Ming Yan

The bay on the left side of the crag has a reasonable height, but sadly relatively poor quality rock and [for the most part] little in the way of protection. Although potential for more routes exists, they’ll most likely be a bit shit and largely protectionless.

5)
Start to the side of the pool and scramble across the ledges to reach the corner and a few micro-wires in tiny cracks. Climb up on to the ledge above before stepping left on to the slab. Arrange gear (the last you’ll see for a while) and then climb the slab and corner above. Caution needed in the upper part due to decreasing rock quality.
F.A. Not yet climbed

6)
A largely solo climb up the blocky and ledge left arete of the slab, joining Route #5 in the upper part.
F.A. Not yet climbed

The Monolith

Undoubtedly the best of the crags in the area, with relatively solid rock on the main part (the right side of the cliff) and plenty of positions to set up okay belays due to the stepped nature of the top of the crag. The length of routes varies between about 15 to 35 m and most can be climbed with a relatively standard trad rack. Protection is generally adequate, but can be tricky to find / place in some parts so don’t push the boat out too far…

Access: The crag is best accessed by an exciting little scramble around the coastline from the small beach beneath the Neck.

Descent: The easiest and safest means of descent is to use the fixed rappel stations installed at the belays of ‘Skirting the Issue’ and ‘This Crack is Very Moreish’, both of which can safely use a 50 m rope to reach the belay platform. A third abseil station is also planned to provide access to the platforms on the left side of the cliff, which can only otherwise be accessed during low tide. This descent requires double ropes as the cliff reaches over 40m height in this area. It is also possible to scramble down the ledges and small cliffs behind the crag, but this isn’t particularly pleasant or safe.

1) TMA-1 ** VS 4c (40m)
A long excursion weaving up the main face. Start just above the water line, at ledges that are reached by easy scrambling. From these, pull left round the arête and into a corner, which is followed to ledges. Ascend the ledges diagonally left until it is possible to climb up and in to a narrow chimney. Follow this to reach the crack and corner system above, which is followed to gear belays at the top of the crag.
F.A. Ron Roy & Stuart Millis (2020)

2) Monolithic *** VS 4b (35m)
Begin at a small ledge left of the main platform and just above the water line. From here follow the crack above to a large ledge, before continuing straight up through the cracks / grooves above, with the crux coming at the small pillar just right of the roof.
F.A. Colin Tait (2020)

3) Reach High, Stay Low ** E1 5c (30m)
Start just to the left of the crack of This Crack is Very Moreish. Climb up and left to a small ledge. From here step up and reach out to the flake above, which in turn leads to a large ledge. Continue more easily up the wall above the ledge, following a vertical crack that is broken by several horizontal breaks.
F.A. Tsz San Lam & Him Wong (2020)

4) This Crack is Very Moreish *** S (30m)
Start at the left corner of the main wall and platform. Follow the obvious vertical crack straight up to a big ledge. Well protected throughout and a sheer delight to climb.
F.A. Colin Tait (2020)

5) Getting Off Crack ** E1 5a (30m)
A bold start leads to a left trending crack and (finally) some gear. Continue straight up from the crack to a big ledge. Requires some thought to protect the upper part too.
F.A Deno Hewson (2020)

6) A Touch of Spray ** VS 4c (25m)
Start at a short left trending crack on the right side of the wall. Climb up this before launching up the wall above, weaving left and right to connect various crack systems before trending left at the top to finish at the corner of the ledge. Protection is adequate but requires some effort / thought to place. Descent can be made from the bolted rap station on the right side of the belay ledge.
F.A. Deno Hewson (2020)

7) The Hinge – VDiff (10m)
The obvious corner crack on the right side of the wall.
F.A. Colin Tait (2020)

8) Hole in the Roof * VS 5a (10m)
The righthand corner of the wall has small roof capping the middle part, with plenty of gear opportunities beneath it. Tackle to roof (bearing in mind the name of the climb) before finishing more delicately up the wall above.
F.A. Deno Hewson (2020)

9) Skirting the Issue * HS 4a (25m)
Start at the right side of the buttress and climb the crack in the short slab wall to reach an easy angled groove above. Follow this to, and across, the large ledge to reach a short corner crack. Climb the crack to reach ledges on its left, establishing yourself on this to reach the main belay ledge above and gear or bolted (rap station) anchors.
F.A. Stuart Millis & Ron Roy (2020)

Notable potential for further development of hard climbs to the left of Route #1, with those above the cave looking like they’ll give some stunningly hard Gogarth like trad climbs in the E5 and above territory. The original crag developers are awaiting cooler temps before getting stuck in to these lines.

Initial explorations have been made but the current area developers are awaiting cooler temps before getting stuck in proper. Watch this space…

The Dragon’s Den

The Dragon’s Den is the series of connected zawns on the far southern side of the headland, beneath the current radio station buildings. The area includes two zawns (East and West) connected by a small tunnel [which can be swum through] as well as a small wall (The Lair) above some concrete platforms.

West Zawn

The better of the two zawns providing a large expanse of clean rock with numerous grooves and cracks to attack, as well as some less well protected walls in between. Routes appear to be in the 20 to 25 m length range. However, rock quality degenerates notably near the top of the cliff and belays can be tricky to establish and extreme care is required not to drop blocks on to your second.

Access is gained from the the path just beyond the radio station buildings, in the platform above the staircase leading to the shoreline. Follow a vague trail through the bushes towards the small ridge separating the two zawns. Carefully scramble across this (bolted anchors and fixed rope in place) and either:
i) descend the ridge to reach the top of the rock walls and a bolted abseil station. This descent can be protected by fixing a temporary handling / abseil from the last bolt on the ridge; or
ii) a sketchy scramble across the narrow ridge between the two zawns, followed by an equally sketchy decent down a gully on the left side of the wall (looking out to sea). Extreme caution should be exercised when approaching the crag by this route as a fall from the ridge or the gully could have very severe consequences. Once at the base of the gully, a relatively easy scramble around the coastline brings you to the Entry Wall.

The first set of routes are located on the short walls on the right side of the zawn. All have good large ledges at the base.

Routes 1 to 5 are all climbed to the same fixed anchor at the top of the wall. Temporary gear anchors can also be formed in the horizontal break above the large ledge if necessary.

1) Shadow of the Dragon * HS 4a (15m)
The crack on the right side of the short wall facing out to sea. Once on the ledge make a long traverse left to reach a short corner crack with a fixed anchor at its top. First climbed during a solar eclipse…
F.A. James Haugen & Deno Hewson (2020)

2) Spoilt for Choice** HS 4b (15m)
Climb the twin cracks in the middle of the short wall, starting using both but trending towards the right crack more in the upper part. From the ledge, finish up the short corner crack.
F.A. Stuart Millis & Ron Roy (2020)

3) Khaleesi – VS 4c (15m)
As above but using only the left of the two cracks, which increases the difficulty but reduces the ease of finding protection notably. From the ledge, finish up the short corner crack.
F.A. Deno Hewson & James Haugen (2020)

Deno Hewson (left) and Stuart Millis (right) on the FA’s of Khaleesi and Spoilt for Choice respectively. Photos: Ron Roy

4) Dragon Shard * HS 4b (15m)
The left edge of the Entry Wall has an obvious crack in its middle part. Climb this to reach the ledge, from where a short traverse brings the corner crack and fixed anchor.
F.A. Ron Roy & Stuart Millis (2020)

5) Smaug * VS 4b (15m)
To the left of Entry Wall is an obvious groove line. Climbing this is relatively straightforward, protecting it adequately however is not…
F.A. Stuart Millis & Deno Hewson (2020)

6) Father of Dragons ** VS 4c (20m)
The next corner to the left is capped in its upper part by a large block Climb up to this with relative ease and then around it with more difficulty. From the ledge above the block, climb the crack up the right side of the wall to reach a fixed anchor just beneath the capping roof. Note: The right bolt jammed during installation and only went in just over 3/4 of the length. Its safe but will be replaced in the future.
F.A. Deno Hewson & James Haugen (2020)

7) XXXX (20m)
The front face of the slab is split by a thin crack on its right side. Climb this to reach the ledge above, from which a short traverse left brings several more thin cracks that can be climbed to the fixed anchor above.

The next two climbs do not have fixed anchors as the rock at the top of the wall is relatively weathered and weak. Climbers will need to carefully construct their own anchors upon topping out, although single ‘safety’ bolt has been added in a block set back from the cliff edge and a few metres above the main ab station to help back up the trad anchor. After topping out, an easy traverse can be made to the main abseil station to get back down to the base of the crag.

8) Cold Cold World * HVS 5a (30m)
Start from the left edge of the main platform. Make a short traverse left on good jugs to reach a small platform at the base of the obvious corner. It is recommended to set yup your belay here. Climb up into the corner and make committing moves up this to gain a small ledge on its left side and then a larger ledge above. From the ledge, move up and left to join the upper part of Mother of Dragons and, eventually, the top of the crag.
F.A. Bob Moseley & Stuart Millis (2020)

Bob Moseley on the first ascent of Cold Cold World. Photo: Ron Roy

9) Mother of Dragons ** HVS 5a (30m)
Currently started from the main ledge but a direct start up the lower corner to be added once abseil anchors and tides allow. From the left side of the lower ledges, traverse left on good jugs to reach the ledge system (optional belay point). From here continue left to the main crack system, which is climbed with increasing difficulty (Cam #4 useful) to reach a ledge up and right. Continue up the crack above with increasing ease, but slightly decreasing rock quality to reach gear belays on the ledge at the top of the crag.
F.A. Stuart Millis & Ron Roy (2020)

10)
Left of the bottom of MoD is an obvious and well-defined corner crack, which is climbed to the pedestal above. From here it looks possible to connect the various horizontal breaks splitting the face, although the climbing between may be hard and the gear sparse…

The following routes all require abseil access from the ridge line on the approach path. Additional glue-in fixed anchors to be added later on to facilitate this. As for Routes #8 onwards, the rock quality in the upper bands of the cliff deteriorates notably so caution is required not to drop things on to your belayer. It is also recommended to leave your abseil rope in place to provide a good anchor to belay from.

Do not abseil / climb here if there are other parties already on any of the routes as the amount of loose rock in the upper parts of the crag makes the risk of dropping something on to them too high. Some large blocks have been pulled off here!

11) Here Be Dragons (and Ants…) VS 4b (30m)
The obvious v-shaped groove. Start at the right side of the small platform and climb the short crack system to a small ledge (beware of the ants). Climb the corner above to get established in the wide groove system, which is followed on rock of decreasing quality to the top of the crag. Will hopefully clean up to give a more reasonable and enjoyable route with some more traffic.
F.A. Stuart Millis & Bob Moseley (2020)

12) Leave the Tree Alone ** E1 5b (30m)
The wall between the two groove systems is split by an obvious finger crack / flake line. Climb this to the good ledge 5 m beneath the top of the crag, from which you trend left to ‘leave the tree alone’ and follow easy (but broken and highly weathered) ground to the top.
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming & Chow Ming Yan (2020)

Dennis Kwok on the first ascent of Leave the Tree Alone. Photo: Stuart Millis

13)
The prominent squeeze chimney. Beware of loose rock.

East Zawn

Not yet explored…

The Den (East Zawn)

The Lair

Bob Moseley on the First Ascent of Dragon’s Breath (VS). Photo: Stuart Millis

A small crag located above the concrete platforms on the southern side of the headland, just west of the more impressive walls of the Den. Provides a mix of short (approx. 6 to 8 m) easy to moderate grade trad climbs and one stunning but scary arête. Most routes have quick links at the top for easy descents as there’s not much to set up safe belays.

1) Everything is Cake – VS 4c (10m)
The short finger crack on the small wall on the left side of the Lair. Named in memory of the piece of cake that fell to it’s demise during the first ascent…
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming & Martha Tin (2020)

2) Sweaty Web * HS 4a (10m)
On the left side of the wall is a short, deep corner crack that leads to a large ledge at about two-thirds height. Climb the corner before veering left at the ledge to reach a lower off.
F.A. Tsz San Lam & Bob Moseley (2020)

3) Elderly Discount – VS 4b (10m)
Further right is another open book corner crack that extends the full height of the cliff. Scramble up to the ledge at the base of this before ascending the corner, making careful placements in the crack and a thread around the tree root. Veer off right in the upper part, where the gear runs out, to join the upper crack system of Dragon’s Breath and the lower-off of that route.
F.A. Bob Moseley & Tsz San Lam (2020)

4) Dragon’s Breath * VS 5a (10m)
The short crackline in the middle of the crag provides a fun and relatively well protected outing with a slightly trickier section in the middle of the climb.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Stuart Millis & Chris Tang (2020)

5) Dragon’s Son * HVS 5a (10m)
On the right side of the Dragon’s Breath slab is a series of shallow grooves running up the arête. Climb these, stepping left at the very top to make use of the Dragon’s Breath lower-off.
F.A. Tsz San Lam (2020)

Tsz San Lam on the first ascent of Dragon’s Son (HVS). Photo: Stuart Millis

6) Socially Distant – VS 4c (10m)
Squirm your way up the next corner system, making use of lots of small wires for pro.
F.A. Deno Hewson & Bob Moseley (2020)

7) Action Arête ** E3 5b (10m)
An extremely bold undertaking with notable ground fall potential! You have been warned..
Climb to the ledge and arrange large cams in the horizontal break. From the ledge, take a deep breath, check your balls of steel are fully in place, and either launch up the sharp arête above or make use of features to the right to gain the ledge. From here, one last committing move (hopefully) brings the top and the lower off. Now count your blessings, thank god you’re still alive, quit climbing and take up something saner and safer like Russian roulette…
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming & Stuart Millis (2020)

The next major corner system is a choosy and highly weathered affair that is best avoided all together.

8) Crack 65 ** VS 4a (10m)
Towards the right side of the wall are a series of discontinuous vertical cracks and grooves. These provide well protected climbing (lots of small cams) and a good introductory trad lead route on surprisingly solid rock, provided you stay out of the larger groove to the right. Fixed lower-off at top. First ascent by Bob on his 65th birthday!
F.A. Bob Moseley & Tsz San Lam (2020)

Hiding in the shade after concurrently establishing three more lines. Photo: Bob Moseley

Other Potential Areas

The southern coastline of the main island also has a tonne more potential with at least four decent looking crags identified along it. Go explore…

Other Potential Crags: Notable development potential also seems to exist on a series of crags located on the southern side of the main Island of Tung Lung Chau, although access will require a bit more of a bushwhack to reach these.

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