A fine cluster of low to mid grade problems located largely on the large single boulder about half way up the main approach path to Lion Rock from the Kowloon side. The boulders here were originally developed by Rocky Lok, Angel Liu & friends in the early 2000’s, but then largely forgotten about and reclaimed by the forest for many years with only sporadic rediscovery by various parties in the intervening years.
Follow the main hiking trail to Lion Rock from the entrance to Lion Rock Country Park, starting up the steps just to the right of where the road to the park entrance ends. Both blocs are located immediately adjacent to the main trail, with the Welcome Boulder on the right after about 10 mins hike and the Lion Cub on the left about 5 mins further up the trail.
The Welcome Boulder is the first sizable bloc apparent to the right of the main hiking trail, situated a few minutes walk up the trail from a small concrete structure.
1) Magic Hook * V7
Start matched on a good jug in the middle of the back face of the bloc. Make tricky moves out left from this (avoiding the small bloc below) to a committing finish.
Warning – the area beneath this problem seems to have become a popular toilet for people who can’t hold their bladder for more than 10 minutes into a hike!
2) Archer ** V6
Start on positive crimps on the right arête of the back face. Climb the arête and the thin crack around the corner.
3) Under Lock ** V6
Start on the same crimp as Archer but continue right onto the face around the arête and follow the undercut crack via technical thin moves to reach the lip.
4) North Hemisphere (sds) * V5
Sit start in the two lowest slots in the diagonal crack. Make difficult moves to lift off and then follow the crack up and left to top out on the left side of the face.
5) South Hemisphere (sds) * V4
Sit start as for North Hemisphere, but this time top out to the right of the crack making use of positive holds on the lip of the bloc.
6) Peanut (sds) * V5
Sit start on the far right of the face and climb the wall to the right of the crack via a small peanut hold and avoiding the ledge out right.
The Lion Cub
The climbs are described in an anticlockwise manner, starting from the small face on the backside of the boulder and finishing on the overhanging face immediately adjacent to the main hiking trail.
1) Firing on Blanks (sds) * V3
Sit start with the jug for the left and side pull for the right. make powerful moves up the arete to eventually gain positive crimps leading out right to the lip and an easier finish.
2) Ready to Fire (sds) ** V7
As above but minus the big jug on the left to start.
3) Body Motion (sds) * V4
Start as for Ready to Fire, but move right to poor undercuts on Hand Ten, which is then followed to finish.
4) Hand Ten (sds) ** V2
Sit start above the tree stump with a positive right hand hold and poor undercut in the roof for the left. Make big moves up from these to slopers above before gaining the lip to top out.
5) Three Lady (sds) * V2
Sit start with a positive crimp for the right and pinch / side pull for the left. Move up and left to more crimps before reaching up to the lip, which is then traversed all the way left to finish.
6) Happy Together (sds) ** V1
Sit start matched on big slopey holds at the bottom of the right arête. Move up left to the lip of the face and then follow this all the way across the face to its highest point before toping out.
7) Straight Back Down * VB
The short arête between the back face and Main Face also provides a convenient down climb between problems
8) Ding Don * V1
Follow the shallow grooves just to the right of the arête, with a tricky transition between the two groove systems higher up.
9) Ding Don II ** V1
Start beneath the small overlap, climbing up to and then through this before trending right to positive crimps on the arête to the side.
10) Schrödinger ** V2
Start on the left side of the main wall proper and follow a series of crimps and ledges up this to a committing top out.
11) Garfield * V3
The wall to the right is split by a series of horizontal breaks and ledges, which are used to ascend it.
12) Middle Road ** V5
Start with a positive side pull for the right and small crimp for the left. Make this moves to get established on reasonable footholds high up before reaching out right to small crimps and a committing push for the lip above.
13) Finger Player ** V6
Start on positive holds beneath the overlap. Reach through the overlap to further positive holds just above the lip, before a long reach brings a very small crimp and hard moves to get up to the lip above.
14) Finger Player (sds) ** V8
The sit start to Finger Player adds a fierce move off the floor to get into the start holds of the stand start.
15) Power Show (sds) * V7
Sit start at the blunt arête and make desperate moves up the wall above to eventually gain the small horn in the crack and a bit of respite for the easier finish.
16) Over Shot (sds) ** V3
Link the various ledges to the left of the corner, from a sit start
17) Fireman Corner (sds) ** V0
Sit start matched on the good ledge left of the corner and climb the corner above this.
18) Pretty Woman (sds) ** V3
Start as for the previous climb but move right across various small ledges and crimps to eventually top out where the right arête of the face meets the lip.
19) City Hunter (sds) * V7
Sit start using a small crimp for the left and the rounded arete/sloping lip for the right. Make hard moves up to join Pretty Woman, which is then followed to the top.
20) Cat Nip (sds) * V2
Start matched on the low lip on the overhanging face next to the footpath. Throw up a heel hook and inelegantly mantle / rock over on to the slab.
21) Little Lion Traverse (sds) ** V6
Start matched on the low ledge at the left end of the main overhanging face. From this, move out left to the sloping ledge and traverse this left and around the corner to eventually finish as for Pretty Woman.
22) King Lion Traverse (sds) *** V3
Start matched on the low ledge near the left side of the main overhang. Reach up to the lip above and then traverse this all the way left to the v-groove near the right side of the overhang. Continue past this a short way to gain the sloper at the start of Lion King and then rock up / mantle into the groove to finish.
23) Simba’s Pride ** V1
Start matched on the lip just to the left of the arête formed by the v-groove. Reach up to the arete and then pull onto the slab above the lip.
24) Mufasa * V2
Start matched in the base of the v-groove, at the lip of the roof. Make a big reach out right for the side pull before establishing yourself in the groove itself to finish.
25) Lion King * V2
Start matched on the lip to the right of the v-groove and reach up to the ledge / side pull above, before ,angling on to the slab and finishing up this.