Kai Kung Leng

General

Jack Lin on Find the Right Pockets on the Valley Boulder. Photo: Jack Lin Collection

As the name suggests, these boulders are located on the hillsides of Kai Kung Leng in the northern New Territories. Currently only a fraction of the boulders present on the hillside have been explored and climbed so potential for new development still abounds. Go get at it…

Access

The easiest access to the boulders is to take the MTR West Rail to either Kam Sheung Road or Yuen Long Station and then get a taxi / van to drop you near Po Kwong Monastery on Fung Kat Heung Road (Lat: 22.456163, Long: 114.067298).

Various trails lead up the hillside in the vicinity of the monastery, the majority of which will get you close to your desired set of boulders. The best of these starts at the back of the small opening situated just beyond the end of the paved access road.

Routes

Three main bouldering areas have currently been explored / developed, as shown on the map below. The first of these (Lower Boulders) takes about 15 minutes to reach when hiking up the ridge line:

Lower Boulders

Opening Slabs

The Opening Slabs are the first large bloc encountered when taking the path up the ridge line and include a handful of pleasant pocketed slab climbs.

1) Ruy Lopez * V1
The left side of the face.

2) Queen’s Gambit ** V0
Climb the highest and longest part of the face on a succession of good pockets

3) Sicilian Defence ** V1
The right-centre of the face, through a slightly bulged start at the bottom of the slab.

4) Sokolsky * V1
The right hand side and arete of the main face of the boulder.

Valley Boulder

Located in the streambed immediately east of the Opening Slab is a fine tall pocketed face on the downhill side of a large block. Descent is off the uphill side of the boulder, making use of the tree when necessary.

1) Find The Right Pockets *** V2
Start beneath the tallest part of the boulder and follow a series of (mostly) positive but spaced pockets up the middle of the wall to an exciting top out. A good introduction to the best that Kai Kung Leng has to offer.

2) Valley Uprising ** V1
Climb the left side of the face to reach the lip, which is then followed to the top of the block.

3) Lean on Me Now (sds) * V3
Sit start on the left (overhanging) side of the arete and climb the steep face and arete, with difficult moves to turn the lip of the overhang.

Streambed Boulder

Just upslope of the Valley Boulder and still within the drainage line is the Streambed Boulder., awaiting your development of new lines…

The Great Overhang

Back up on the ridge line is a large boulder with a big overhanging face looking back down towards the stream. This is home to several test pieces.

1) One Punch Man * V7
Start with two slippery holds in the groove right of the overhang and dyno up to the jug on the lip before pulling through this to finish up the wall above

2) Spot the Spotter’s Spotter (sds) *** V8
Sit down start at the large pockets in the middle of the overhanging face. Pull up to pockets slightly left before moving back right to the ‘golden’ pocket. Crank up to the lip before launching left to the pocket on the prow and a rock over to finish up the slab above.

3) What is Solid ** V7
Sit start at the same pocket in the middle of the wall. From here make a series of powerful moves left all the way across the wall to the arête/lip. Once established on this, follow the lip back out right before rocking over on to it just before reaching the prow.

4) Solid or Liquid * V8
Start on two poor pinches on the left side of the overhanging face. Crank up and right for a sharp, but positive, pocket before throwing back left to the lip. Get established on this and follow it out towards the prow before rocking back up and onto the slab to finish up the steep wall above.

Shoji Chan creating another desperate test piece on Solid or Liquid (V8). Photo: Tony Cheung

1) Sidewinder ** V1
Up slope of Solid or Liquid is another tall wall. The pocketed right side of this, up the vertical and slabby face on the right of the rounded arête is essentially the line of least resistance.

2) Cross Wired * V3
Start on the right side of the wall at two small pockets. Make hard moves up from these to gain bigger pockets above and an easier finish.

3) Size Doesn’t Matter ** V5
Start with a small crimpy pocket with the right and an even smaller one/two finger pocket with the left. From here launch up to the slopey dishes above before finishing up the big pockets above. 

4) Size Doesn’t Matter ** (Project – V7’ish)
The sit start to Size Doesn’t Matter and several fierce moves from pockets low down, with the crux being the accuracy needed to stick the starting left hand of the original line.

5) Great Wall * V2
Climb the left side of the pocketed wall.

Banana Rock

On the immediate uphill side of the Great Overhang is a small boulder with several nice pocketed wall climbs on its downhill face.

1) Good Old Time ** V1
Climb the right arête of the block

2) Old Good Time * V1
Climb the main face of the block via an assortment of good pockets.

The Undertaker

Located about 15m uphill and to the right of Banana Rock is another large boulder with yet more pocketed faces. Sadly, the block also has a rather large hole beneath the landings on its right side, making the problems in this area somewhat risky for those brave (foolish?) enough to take them on.

1) Back Scratch * V0
The left side of the face can be climbed via numerous pockets, with a little back scratch from the branches behind you though.

2) The Undertaker ** V1
Climb the pocketed wall, jest to the left of the big drop in the landing area.

The next two problems would be three stars but for the horrendous landing. Both are basically no fall climbs so make sure you’re comfortable with their situation before sending.

3) Six Feet Under (sds) ** V2
Sit start at a good pocket left of the big drop. Crank up to big pockets before heading out right on positive but spaced holds above the void of ‘The Coffin’.

4) Coffin Box (sds) ** V3
Sit start using pockets low on the wall. Pull directly to positive crimps above these before launching out left, over the void, to an okay left pocket. From here make worrying moves up to positive pockets and an easier, but daunting, finish.

5) Safe as Houses (sds) ** V2
Start as for Coffin Box but launch up the right to pockets and holds on the arete, which is then followed to the top of the boulder.

Stuart Millis feeling Safe as Houses (V3). Photo: Tony Cheung

Flakey Wall

Slightly uphill of The Undertaker and to the left of the track is a collection of three blocs, with two mounds lower down and a longer wall above these.

1) Tree Dab ** V2
Climb the right side of the wall via a collection of spaced pockets, being careful not to dab the tree behind you.

2) Flakey Wall ** V3
The centre of the wall can be climbed using a coalition of pockets and thin flakes that will [hopefully] bear body weight.

3) Flakey Arete ** V2
The left arête of the wall.

4) Pocket Plus * V1
Climb the arête on its left side, making more use of the pockets on the wall than there arete itself.

The next few problems are on the two blocks below Flakey Wall. Neither are particularly worthwhile though.

5) Pocket to Pocket (sds) V2
Sit start in the pocket on the right arete and make a big throw to a positive pocket higher up. Finish more easily above this

6) Easy Picking V0
Climb the left bloc via the line of least resistance.

Goat Rock

Located about 30m upslope of The Undertaker and just beneath a large landslide scar is another large bloc with a steep downhill face.

1) Focus *** V5
A stiff proposition for the grade but a line worth putting the fight in for. Start at the high pocket on the left of the face and crank right to more pockets and crimps in the middle of the wall. Launch directly up from these to gain more pockets at, and over, the lip.

2) Focus (sds) * V8
The sit start to Focus adds several very difficult moves from a small pocket and flake on the left arete of the face.

Ha Fa Wall

Just upslope of Goat Rock and on the right side of the landslide scar is another big boulder with several problems on its downhill face and a multitude of easy slab lines on its right side.

1) Transplant * V1
Climb the slanting crack and pocketed wall on the left side of the downhill face of the block.

2) ?
Start with a high poor pinch on the left of the bulge and an undercut in the crack low down. Pull on and slap to pockets on the lip of the bulge, before pulling through this and finishing up the easy slab above.

3) Ha Fa On Loan * V3
Frequenters of Ha Fa Shan Summit Boulders will find something about this one oddly reminiscent. Sit start on small flakes and launch up for positive holds in the v-notch above. Pull through this to finish up the slab above.

4) Way Down VB
The easy angled slab can be climbed a multitude of ways, all at relatively amenable difficulties. This also provides a useful way back down the block.

Sunshade Boulders

The Sunshade Boulders are the next obvious cluster located about 100 m further up the ridge line from Goat Rock. Home to Pokemon Go, this is one of the ‘must visit’ areas at Kai Kung Leng.

The Rice Bowl

The lowermost of the boulders in the cluster up the ridge to the right of the large landslide scar, the Rice Bowl provides a number of very high slabby easy lines.

1) Broken Bowls V0
The less featured side of the face can be climbed via pockets and breaks, all be it on slightly more suspect rock than the other parts.

2) The Rice Bowl ** V0
The middle of the (very) large slab face, via the obvious large pocket.

3) Faahn * VB
The right side of the face is littered in large scooped projects that allow it to be climbed in relative security.

4) Beeline ** V0
A slightly trickier start leads to pleasant climbing up the slab pocketed left arête of the face.

5) The Wasp Factory *** V1
The pocketed slab wall in the middle of the right face gives a good introduction to slab pocket pulling.

Lightning Bloc

1) Hollow Slab ** V1
The slightly hollow sounding slab on the left side of the face, making use of the side of the crack in the upper part, where the bolt jolts left.

2) Lightning Crack *** VB
Climb the slab crack, mostly using it to lay back until the upper part, where you can finish up the block.

3) Thunder Struck * V1
Start in Lightning Crack but immediately break out right on to the slab above, which is climbed to the top.

Kryptonite Bloc

1) Pocket Full of Kryptonite ** V4
Start with a small but positive right crimp and either undercut pinches or more small crimps out left (depending on reach). Make hard moves up to a good crimpy pocket before finishing with trepidation through the bulging lip above. The big pocket out right is off.

2) Clark Kent (sds) *** V2
The only disappointing thing about this line is that its not slightly harder. Sit start on the slab at a positive pocket, and smaller one just beneath it. Using features and pockets, climb the wall above with surprising ease to a slightly trickier finish through the bulge above.

3) Superman *** V1
Start matched in the good slot and make powerful moves up the wall above to reach the lip using a collection of good, but spaced pockets. Turning the lip itself is probably the crux however.

4) Daily Planet ** V3
Start in the good slot and make big moves out right to a good pocket. From here, tricky moves may allow you to finish up the arête above.

5) Climb Like a Cockroach, Sting Like a Wasp (sds) * V5
Start on a small three finger pocket with left and a low crimps pocket with right. Make a powerful move up to another small pocket before launching out left to the good jug on Dailey Planet. Finish up the positive holds of this and Superman.

6) Lois Lane * V4
Start on the right most pocket on the lip and work your way left across this to the finish of Daily Planet.

Warm Up Bloc

At the top of the cluster and facing up the hill is nice small wall with a number of good lines for getting yourself warmed up on.

1) Warm Up Flake (sds) * V1
Start sat using the good side pull flake and pocket out right. From these crank up the various pockets above to an easier finish.

2) Warm Up (sds) ** V0
Starting from good pockets low down, climb up using even more good projects.

3) Warm UP Arete (sds) * V0
Climb the right side of the wall from a sit start.

Pokemon Rock

Back down the hill on the other side of the Warm Up Bloc is a steep overhanging face.

1) Pokemon Go *** V6
Originally graded V3 but nothing like that anymore, meaning it was either a massive sandbag or the lip of several pockets have deteriorated a bit. Start at a big pocket low down. Crack up to another reasonable pocket before launching out left on various deep two finger pockets to eventually gain the lip near the left side of the roof. Pocket lovers will like it but be sure to bring those tendons of steel!

2) Pocket Monster Go (sds) *** V7
The sit start to Pokemon Go

3) Pikachu ** V3
The wall right of the roof has a large pocket at chest height in its middle part, Start on this and a smaller pocket to the right and climb straight up via the lone pocket above.

Brian Or seemingly levitating his way up Pokemon Go (V6). Photo: Stuart Millis

Ships Prow

Just beneath the Pokemon Bloc is an enormous proud bloc bulging out like the prow of a ship. This probably won’t see much traffic due to its size and steepness but you never know, there are holds…

Crispy Rock

Straight up the hill from the Warm Up Bloc and beneath the Whale is Crispy Rock, a beautiful looking face that sadly doesn’t quite live up to expectations with a little bit too much friable rock.

Various lines have been tried on this wall but a lack of good start footholds and a plethora of exploding start hand holds means we gave up and moved on elsewhere. Fell free to detonate a few more holds in an attempt to climb something worthwhile.

The Whale

The Whale is the large bloc up hill and looming over the Pokémon Cluster.  

1) Moby Dick ** V5
Climb the wall and arête on the right side of the Whale Bloc.

2) Tsao’s Project (Project)
The awesome overhanging wall is about as proud as a project line can get. Starting on the right side, use awesome amounts of self belief to somehow try and work your way up and left to jugs at the lip. From there all that’s left to do is put fear behind you and continue up the flake and pocketed wall above to a daunting finish some 8 or 9 metres off the ground!

3) Shamu ** V2 (TR)
Currently only sent on a TR due to the height (approaching 8m), the overhanging corner crack gives a fine exercise in lay backing, jamming and bridging, with added bonus of a slightly spicy top out too!

4) Hump Back (sds) ** V4
Start sat matched on the good flake low down. Crank up the corner to gain the horizontal break above before making tricky moves to get established on the slobber part of the corner above. A deceptive line that’s harder than it first looks.

The Bod Bloc

Roughly level with the back of The Whale but further over to the right is a bloc with a small overhanging prow and a big pocket in its middle.

1) Dad Bod ** V3
Start matched in the pocket and work your way left along the lip towards the arête using more pockets, before topping out on the left side of the face

2) Mum Bod ** V5
Start matched in the large pocket and work your way right along the lip using pockets above and below and a good deal of heel hooking and slapping. Finish up the line of pockets and arête on the right side of the face.

Olympus Boulders

Behind the Whale Boulder is a collection of (mostly highball) boulders nearing the summit ridge line of the hillside. Between the large blocs and the Sunshade Boulders are a number of more sensibly sized blocs too. Details for these to follow later on.

The Tinderbox

Back over near the bottom of the main cluster of small (i.e. normal sized) boulders behind The Whale are a couple of little gems worth a quick stop, as well as a more testy prow on the right hand block.

1) Charred Remains (sds) * V2
Sit start at the base of the flake and climb this to the roof, which is then tackled directly to gain the slab above.

2) Tinderbox * V2
From matched in the slot, pull through the overlaps above using, you guessed it, pockets.

3)  Simon Says ** V?
The bulging prow on the block to the right of Tinderbox

Cracked Wall

Slim Groove

1) Flaked Arete * V1
Use flakes and the arête to get established on the lower, steeper wall, before pulling up on to the easier slab above.

2) Warped Wall *** V1
A delightful climb through the scooped wall and slab above on big bucket pockets.

3) S-Club ** VB
Weave an s-shape up the right of the wall following the line of least resistance.

4) Slim Groove (sds) ** V1
Climb the pale coloured open groove using pockets and holds on the arêtes either side.

5) Pocketed Wall * V0
The highly pocketed side wall of the block, up the tallest part.

White Wall

Mid-way between the Whale and the main Olympus Blocs is a cluster of sensibly sized boulders with some fine looking problems on them. The White Wall is on the left side of these and stands out due to the striking arête line on it.

1) Grey Scale * V1
Follow the narrow grey wall on the right side of the prominent arête.

2) Underbelly (sds) ** V2
Start matched din the lowest of the pockets, just above the lip and with feet under the roof. Jug haul your way through the roof before finishing up the pockets wall and arête above.

3) Grey Mouth * VB
The pocketed slab is also a convenient way back down the block.

4) White Walkers (sds) ** V1
The right arête of the white face, from a sit start.

5) Silicified (sds) ** V3
Start on two small pockets in the middle of the wall and shoot straight up from these for the bottom of the notched lip above, making use of other pocketed features between.

6) Great White ** V0
The left arête of the white face, from a sit start.

The Moonboard

The gully behind White Wall has couple of absolute gems tucked away within it.

1) Boybi’s Arete (sds) ** V2
Sit start on the arête left of the wide crack and then climb this, making good use of some large pockets out left on the way.

2) Moon Madness (sds) *** V4
Start matched in the big slot really low down. From here crank your way up the wall on perfect pockets to some hard moves to gain the lip, before finishing up the lichen covered slab above.

Titan Rock

The left most of the three large blocs near the summit ridge, with a big beautiful slab pocketed face on its downhill side.

1) Clash of the Titans ** V?
Climb the large pocketed slab on the left side of the face.

2) Oceanus V?
Follow a line of slowly worsening pockets up the middle of the huge face.

3) Cronus V?
The right side of the slab is split by discontinuous vertical flakes. Follow these.

4) Crius V?
Climb the slabby pocketed right arête if the main face, on its left side.

5) Hyperion V?
The right arête of the main face, but on its stepper overhanging right side.

6) Lapetus V?
The line of pockets up the middle of the steep east face of the The Titan.

7) Tethys V?
The line of pockets up the right of the steep east face of the The Titan.

8) Theia V?
Follow the left arête of the slabby west face of the Titan.

9) Rhea V?
Weave a line up the middle of the face following the path of least resistance.

Gaia Rock

Adjacent to Titan Rock is the slightly smaller, but still rather huge, Gaia Rock

1) Gaia *** V1
Climb up the middle face of the Gaia rock

Zeus Rock

The right most of the summit trilogy is another highball block, this time with a fine collection of cracks splitting its faces.

1) Zeus *** V?
The perfect splitter crack on the slab left side of the boulder

2) Olymp  V4
Start inside the mini-cave and make dynamic moves to reasonable holds on the vertical face above. Finish up and to the top left of the rock

3) Thunder Crack *** V1
Climb the other perfect splitter crack, making more use of the holds on the right side of crack than the crack itself.

Jack Lin on Thunder Crack (V1) on Zeus Rock. Photo: Jack Lin Collection

Hermes Rock

Just to the west of Titan Rock is a lone bock with one line on it.

1) Stealthy Grip  V1