A lone boulder near Mau Ping San Uk that packs a big punch with problems up to V10 having been climbed there.
The boulder is best approached via Mui Tsz Lam, which is accessed by heading south from Exit B of Tai Shui Hang MTR Station to get to Mui Tsz Lam Rd, which is followed to the village of the same name. From Mui Tsz Lam, follow the very pleasant Mau Ping Ancient Trail to get to Mau Ping San Uk. Pass through the village to reach a small bridge over the stream. The boulder itself is located just up the stream, to the south of the bridge.
1) Hidden Gold (sds) V2
2) Super Girl (sds) * V1
Sit start matched in the diagonal crack. Slap out right to the sloping ledge and then rock through the lip to gain positive holds beneath the small roof above. Amble up the slab and through the overlap to finish.
3) Super Boy (sds) ** V3
Sit start using the arête and crimps out left at about the same level. Move through the ledges above before rocking up on to the slab and finishing more easily above this.
4) Black Cow (sds) V10
5) Transformer V9
6) Project (sds)
7) Practice for the New (sds) V5
8) Gamepower (sds) *** V5
Sit start matched on a positive hold in the roof, just left of the crack. Make powerful moves along the rail left of this before continuing out through the steepest part of the prow to an easy, but high, finish once you’ve turned the lip.
9) Welcome Crackline (sds) ** V2
Sit start low in the overhanging crack and then attack this (those with a bit of jamming ability will find this a breeze) to get through the overhanging wall and gain the big obvious pocket high up. Finish directly above this.
10) Kung Fu Panda (sds) *** V4
Sit start matched on side pulls on the left side of rectangular bloc in the overhang. Layback up the block to eventually gain positive holds on the lip of the overhang before making committing moves to better holds higher up. Pull full through the lip and then finish directly up the wall above
11) Kung Fu Panda 2 (sds) V4
12) Fly Eagle (sds) V7
13) Big Rock Cafe (sds) V4
14 COVID No More (sds) V3