General
A lone boulder near Mau Ping San Uk that packs a big punch with problems up to V10 having been climbed there.
Note: The Bloc is located above a stream bed and thus requires relatively low water levels for most of the problems to have dry landings. This means that climbing here in the summer and early winter season (pre-Dec) is typically a no-go unless you want to start shuffling blocks and building dams for your warm up.
Access
The boulder is best approached via Mui Tsz Lam, which is accessed by heading south from Exit B of Tai Shui Hang MTR Station to get to Mui Tsz Lam Rd, which is followed to the village of the same name. From Mui Tsz Lam, follow the very pleasant Mau Ping Ancient Trail to get to Mau Ping San Uk. Pass through the village to reach a small bridge over the stream. The boulder itself is located just up the stream, to the south of the bridge.
Routes
1) Hidden Gold (sds) * V2
Sit start using the big flake on the left edge of the boulder. Move up from this to good holds beneath the roof before insecure moves allow you to move out and around the overhang itself, with a slightly worrying mantle shelf / rock over to finish.
2) Super Girl (sds) * V1
Sit start matched in the diagonal crack. Slap out right to the sloping ledge and then rock through the lip to gain positive holds beneath the small roof above. Amble up the slab and through the overlap to finish.
3) Super Boy (sds) ** V3
Sit start using small holds on the arête and a small crimp out left at about the same level. Make a hard move off these to gain the ledge above, before moving through this and rocking up on to the slab and finishing more easily above this.
4) Transformer *** V9
Start using the sloping ledges on the protruding block in the roof. From here make difficult moves out through the lip to eventually gain positive crimps higher up. Make a long reach from these to an insecure top out.
5) Metamorph (sds) *** V11
The sit start to Transformer adds hard climbing into an already desperate line. Start at the large undercut pocket deep in the back corner of the cave and work your way out through the roof to finally gain holds on the protruding block. All that’s left now is a stiff V9.
6) Black Calf ** V7
A stand start variant to Black Cow (see below). Start matched on the block in the middle of the roof and work your way out right to gain the positive holds on the lip. Hold the swing and then work your way up the various crimps and cracks on the wall above.
7) Black Cow (sds) ** V10
Sit start on the undercut pocket deep beneath the roof. Levitate your way out through the roof, trending right through the block, to eventually gain positive crimps at the lip. Use these and nearby crimps to turn the lip before continuing more easily (in relative terms) up the wall above.
8) Practice for the New (sds) *** V6
Sit start using the sloping ledge for right and a poor low side pull for the left. Make hard moves to gain better left hand holds before following a series of small but positive crimps to trend diagonally up and left across the wall above the overhang. Can be started one move in on the positive left side pulls at about V4/5.
9) Gamepower (sds) *** V5
Sit start matched on a positive hold in the roof, just left of the crack. Make powerful moves along the rail left of this before continuing out through the steepest part of the prow to an easier, but high, finish once you’ve turned the lip.
9a) Practice for the Old (sds) *** V6
Start as for Gamepower but this time continue left into the start of Practice for the New, which is then followed to the end to give a slightly harder version of that line.
9b) Gumbi Style (sds) *** V7
A further extension to Practice for the New, this time starting as for Kung Fu Panda before working your way left to join and finish as for Practice for the Old.
10) Welcome Crackline (sds) ** V2
Sit start low in the overhanging crack and then attack this (those with a bit of jamming ability will find this a breeze) to get through the overhanging wall and gain the big obvious pocket high up. Finish directly above this.
11) Kung Fu Panda (sds) *** V4
Sit start using side pulls and flakes at the base of the rectangular bloc in the overhang. Layback up the block to eventually gain positive holds on the lip of the overhang before making committing moves to better holds higher up. Pull full through the lip and then finish directly up the wall above
12) Kung Fu Panda 2 (sds) * V5
Somewhat of a contrived eliminate, but with some interesting moves nonetheless. Sit start matched in the lowest flake in the block. Avoiding all use of the left side of the block, move powerfully up the overhanging wall to gain pockets on the lip. Move up and right from these to gain the sloping ramp before rocking on to the slab to finish.
13) Late Spring (sds) *** V6
Start as for Kung Fu Panda and follow this to the lip. From here, make a long traverse right along the lip to eventually reach the wildly overhung prow. Finish up this.
14) Fly Eagle (sds) V7
15) Big Rock Cafe (sds) V4
Sit start using a low undercut with the left and the ledge for the right. Make powerful moves up and right from these to gain the lip, where a powerful mantle/rock over will bring access to the easier slab above.
16) COVID No More (sds) V3
Sit start using the [very] low sloping ledge (the tall will hate this). Move up from this to further ledges above before rounding the lip to finish.