General

A small collection of boulders located on a beach in Tai Tam Bay. The limited number of problems means it won’t keep the keenest of boulders entertained for more than an hour or so. However, having the beach and sea in such close proximity makes it a fine spot for those days when you need to cool off at a moments notice.

Access

The beach is located along Shek O Road, just before Cape D’Aguilar and opposite the start of the Dragon’s Back hiking trail. A small sign post indicates the start of the footpath leading down the hill. The beach is also know as To Tei Wan or Catamaran Beach due to the Hobie Cat sailing club based there. Although the approach feels easy, remember you’ll need to climb back up those 728 steps on the way out…

Blocs

The blocs are located at the northern end of the beach, a few minutes walk from the Hobie Cat Clubhouse. Large portions at the base of the blocs are tidal so bear that in mind when planning your visit, targeting low tide / low swell days to maximise your climbing opportunities.

Bald Slab

1) Plain Sailing V?
Climb the right side of the slab.

2) Bald Slab V?
After a hard start, climb more easily up the middle of the slab

3) Diety Arete V?
The left arête of the slab has a tricky start and a balance finish

If anyone reclimbs these lines, please let me know the grades so I can update (landings were all wet last time I visited)

Dimpled Face

4) Circles in the Sand (sds) ** V2
Sit start using poor holds and heel hooks before slapping out right to the break. Rock up and finish more easily up the featured slab above. So called due to the butt imprints left from a matless sit start

5) Dimpled Face *** V3
The centre of the featured wall, starting with a careful step up into the obvious dish.

6) Left of Centre ** V1
The left arête of the face.

7) Left of Centre (sds) * V5
The sit start to the arete has a somewhat scrunched up and hard difficult first few moves.

Second Skin

8)
The long left arête of the wall gives a sustained and somewhat worrying line with limited options for feet.

9) Second Skin * V2
The hanging flake in the upper wall is gained via some rather hollow looking flakes and the right arete of the wall.

10) Driftwood * V0
Climb the right side of the arete and the shallow groove. Also a useful way back down the block

11) Hollowed Ground V1
The centre of the wall via hollow flakes.

12) Sinking Feeling V1

13) Sail Away * V1
Start stood on the boulder facing the arete on the back side of the block, Reach over across the water and mantle in to the obvious sloping ledge before continuing more easily above.

Oh, and there’s also an excellent recently developed sport climbing crag just a little bit further along the coast from the boulders too if you’re that way inclined:

To Tei Wan Crag

1) Castles Made of Sand F6c+

2) Fractured Times F6c+

3) The Art of Power F6c+

4) From the Yardarm F6c

5) Peaceful Ocean of the Heart F6b

6) Landscape in Blue F7a+

7) Shallow Waters F7a

8) Pod Cast F6c+

9) Little Cracks, Mega Paradise ** F7c+
The blank wall on the right side of the crag provides a technical test piece that the vertically challenged will find even more challenging…
F.A. Kwok Chak Ming (2020)

10) Water from a Vine Leaf F6a