Silver Bay (Ngan Wan) |

General

A collection of coastal sport climbs and boulder problems on the boulders and outcrops in Silver Bay (Ngan Wan), located just to the south of the Cape Collinson Lighthouse.

Access

Access to Ngan Wan is via a very steep and slightly sketchy access path that weaves down the hillside between rock outcrops and the massive landslide scar. This trail is reached from a dirt trail opposite Lamppost #39 on the Dragon Trail, which is about 250m along the trail from both Siu Sai Wan and Cape Collinson Rest Garden (you can get to this point using the 18M Green Minibus from Chai Wan MTR).

Extreme caution should be exercised on the approach as fall from the path would have very serious consequences.

Routes

The sport climbs are primarily located on the freestanding large block (Ngan Wan Crag) located just to the north of the landslide scar. A small crag with some potential is also present at the southern end of the bay. Routes are described right to left:

1) Lost Yearbook – F7b+
One for the jamming afecianados out there…
F.A. Lau Koon Hing (2020)

2) Ngan Wan One – F7a+
Climb the technical slab to a powerful mantle move above.
F.A. Lau Koon Hing (2020)

3) Orange Ball Voyage F6a+
F.A. Lau Koon Hing (2020)

4) Regression – F6b+
Share the same start as Dance of the Epidemic, breaking off right at the second bolt to follow a much easier line on the slabbier side of the block.
F.A. Joanna Lam (2020)

5) Dance of the Epidemic – F7b
Make easy moves up the lower part of the arete before long moves higher up bring you to a leftwards traverse leading to the anchor.
F.A. Lau Koon Hing (2020)

6) Moon Kernal – F7a
A powerful climb on a ruthless 40 degree overhanging wall. Start up easier terrain to move through the ledges low down to a good side pull, from which the second bolt can be clipped. Compose yourself here before launching up the Moonboard like wall and arete above until it is possible to traverse left to reach the anchors.
F.A. Joanna Lam (2020)

7) Triangle Thing – F6c+
Start on the left side of the steep wall and climb up this to eventually mantle on to the big ledge. Follow the small crack in the corner above to eventually reach a shared anchor with Moon Kernel.
F.A. Lau Koon Hing (2020)

8) Swim Ring Journey – F6c+
Begin by chimneying up to the ledge on the left of the block, before awkwardly finishing up the main face.
F.A. Lau Koon Hing (2020)